THE SWITCH BOX IS IN THE HOUSE!

In your particular case, one or two 5' long power strips may be good to start. Keep in mind you (probably) won't be running them all at once, so if you're the primary operator, you can plug more into a power strip than you normally would, secure in the knowledge that only one or two will be on at a time, and likely only one will be running at any appreciable volume. So really, one 20A circuit would suffice.

However, if you're prone to, well, mischief -- as in "Ok, let's get all the sources, receivers, and speakers playing at once real loud..." then you may need another approach.

Likewise if high-dollar power cables are your cup of tea.

So, nominally 24 things that will need AC power. An 8-outlet power strip (like out of a server rack, with a few inches between each outlet) populated with good-quality 3-way adapters on each outlet would cover it... in the 'one-at-a-time, no gold-plated-power-cord' world.
 
quiet said:
View attachment 1120392 View attachment 1120394 View attachment 1120395 View attachment 1120396 View attachment 1120398 View attachment 1120400 View attachment 1120401 View attachment 1120402 View attachment 1120404 I bought some switch boxes so I can run my stuff at will. I believe I have enough cabinets and parts to make things work reasonably well. Actually, they appear to work relatively well right out of the box. The contacts are spotty and the slides are stiff. The questions are, what exactly do I have and what cleaner can I flood the contacts and rail slides with that won't hurt the plastics and then what lube should be used after that? I only get one shot so no expense spared.
Click to expand...


Mr. Quiet,

Fantastic looking set up!

Deox-IT D5 and for vintage gear I use the LPS Brand lube. Good stuff.

Super cool!

Kind Regards,
John
 
Chip Chester said:
In your particular case, one or two 5' long power strips may be good to start. Keep in mind you (probably) won't be running them all at once, so if you're the primary operator, you can plug more into a power strip than you normally would, secure in the knowledge that only one or two will be on at a time, and likely only one will be running at any appreciable volume. So really, one 20A circuit would suffice.

However, if you're prone to, well, mischief -- as in "Ok, let's get all the sources, receivers, and speakers playing at once real loud..." then you may need another approach.

Likewise if high-dollar power cables are your cup of tea.

So, nominally 24 things that will need AC power. An 8-outlet power strip (like out of a server rack, with a few inches between each outlet) populated with good-quality 3-way adapters on each outlet would cover it... in the 'one-at-a-time, no gold-plated-power-cord' world.
Click to expand...
Yes just one at a time. The main "break before make" Switch Box sees to that. It swaps the amp out at the push of a button.
Only one amp can ever see a load at any one time. However several will be powered up at the same time.
All of the speakers can be run simultaneously. One pair or all pair or any combination. The AR speaker selector shows the chosen amp 8 ohms stable.
It's independent of the amp/speaker Switch Box. It receives signal from the big Switch Box and distributes it to the speakers.

The source of choice goes to,
Switch Box then to,
Amp then back to,
Switch Box then to,
AR for distribution to speakers.
It will be on a 20 amp #12 wire lonesome circuit.
So far as "good to start", well I'm thinking setting this up is going to be a one time thing. So.......
Based on your 8-outlet power strip idea (which I think is just ducky) I'm going to look for a 20-outlet power strip and attach it to the back of the furniture and run 20 #16 extinction cords though holes in the back to each amp.
Does anyone see a problem with this approach or have a better idea?


.
 

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The problem with sourcing a 20-outlet power strip is that, according to code/UL, the device has to be sized (number of outlets) based on what you're plugging it into. So, there's a limit to the number of 15-amp-capable outlets you can have on a power strip that plugs into a 15-amp outlet. Plus, there will be a circuit breaker built into most newer ones. I have several equipment racks (pro video) that have strips with 10-15 outlet in them, but the connectors are twist-lock 25A (if memory serves) connectors instead of 'normal' 3-prong blade style. (I can find numbers if needed.) For use in video racks, the UPS also has twist-lock connectors, so I'm good to go there. But I use the same ones out in the shop for a plethora of small bench-mount tools, and I re-terminated them with standard Edison connectors, knowing that only one or two will be used at a time.

So, the "add 3-way adapters" scheme is based on the reality of what you can normally buy at retail outfits, like Micro Center or HD/Lowe's type places.
Plus, after you post the pics here, you don't have to look at it any more.

A side benefit is that the 3-way adapters that make for happy wall-warts.

So after that screed above, here's one with 16 outlets.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...ed-On-Off-Switch-15-ft-Cord-UL402BD/205469956

And one less outlet for 30 less dollars:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tripp-L...wer-Strip-with-16-Outlets-SS7415-15/203348199

And 12 outlets for $20.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Inland-4-ft-12-Outlet-Power-Strip-03201/206858000


And re: your extension cords -- is that so you can unplug and remove a receiver without diving behind the cabinet? Makes sense, but each coiled-up power cord can be a hum generator. If you stuff the excess thru the hole and let it drape vertically down the back, and run the line-level audio cables mostly horizontally, that should minimize hum as well as clutter behind the cabinet.

There are also extension cords with multiple taps along the length of the cable. These cables have screw-mount options and neon-light "live" indicators, which might be a more tidy and cheaper alternative. Like this, except cheaper, lighted, and with screw-down holes:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Yellow-...ion-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-2830/204667720

Or multi-outlet 'tails' like this:
https://i.pinimg.com/236x/5b/e6/a3/5be6a338cafdc6b8f7053b05b114fc2e.jpg
Cut keyhole slots allowing socket to come thru, but not drop back behind. Each unit serves 4 receivers, and plugs into one behind-the-scenes outlet strip outlet. Locate them in a four-square pattern, not all vertical or horizontal so they reach adequately.

Love spending other people's money.

Your insurance agent is going to love this setup.
 
Chip Chester said:
The problem with sourcing a 20-outlet power strip is that, according to code/UL, the device has to be sized (number of outlets) based on what you're plugging it into. So, there's a limit to the number of 15-amp-capable outlets you can have on a power strip that plugs into a 15-amp outlet. Plus, there will be a circuit breaker built into most newer ones. I have several equipment racks (pro video) that have strips with 10-15 outlet in them, but the connectors are twist-lock 25A (if memory serves) connectors instead of 'normal' 3-prong blade style. (I can find numbers if needed.) For use in video racks, the UPS also has twist-lock connectors, so I'm good to go there. But I use the same ones out in the shop for a plethora of small bench-mount tools, and I re-terminated them with standard Edison connectors, knowing that only one or two will be used at a time.

So, the "add 3-way adapters" scheme is based on the reality of what you can normally buy at retail outfits, like Micro Center or HD/Lowe's type places.
Plus, after you post the pics here, you don't have to look at it any more.

A side benefit is that the 3-way adapters that make for happy wall-warts.

So after that screed above, here's one with 16 outlets.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...ed-On-Off-Switch-15-ft-Cord-UL402BD/205469956

And one less outlet for 30 less dollars:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tripp-L...wer-Strip-with-16-Outlets-SS7415-15/203348199

And 12 outlets for $20.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Inland-4-ft-12-Outlet-Power-Strip-03201/206858000


And re: your extension cords -- is that so you can unplug and remove a receiver without diving behind the cabinet? Makes sense, but each coiled-up power cord can be a hum generator. If you stuff the excess thru the hole and let it drape vertically down the back, and run the line-level audio cables mostly horizontally, that should minimize hum as well as clutter behind the cabinet.

There are also extension cords with multiple taps along the length of the cable. These cables have screw-mount options and neon-light "live" indicators, which might be a more tidy and cheaper alternative. Like this, except cheaper, lighted, and with screw-down holes:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Yellow-...ion-Cord-with-Power-Light-Plug-2830/204667720

Or multi-outlet 'tails' like this:
https://i.pinimg.com/236x/5b/e6/a3/5be6a338cafdc6b8f7053b05b114fc2e.jpg
Cut keyhole slots allowing socket to come thru, but not drop back behind. Each unit serves 4 receivers, and plugs into one behind-the-scenes outlet strip outlet. Locate them in a four-square pattern, not all vertical or horizontal so they reach adequately.

Love spending other people's money.

Your insurance agent is going to love this setup.
Click to expand...
It's going to take me a second to take all that in. Please check back later. And there are other problems. Such as,,,,,
I don't want to run cable from the turntable to each receiver so......can I go,

Turntable out to,
Dedicated outboard mag preamp/phono section (or something) to,
Big Switch Box which goes to,
Receiver tape in........................................ And not use the receiver phono sections? And the other concern is.......
How does one connect 20 receivers to a roof antenna without gain problems?
 
I have a good idea what these units draw under max load based on what they say on the back. What do we think one of these unit draws at idle no load connected or volume at zero? Are they all class A/B?
What is my actual max wall load going to be? I'm not going to be lighting everything up at the same time, well maybe once for a picture.
I see 15 amp 20 outlet power strips are readily available ($50) and Tripp offers one at 20 amps same price that will require a wall socket change, can do.
It's a dedicated home run circuit.
 
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The meter says they draw about 50 watts at idle.
So the max load would be 950 watts for the 19 idle units plus one working at 500 watts max for a total of 1450 watts.
That's the most anyone could ever put on the circuit now matter what they did because the Switch Box won't connect more than one receiver at a time to the speakers.
The reality is this rig is going to use 300 watts most of the time. Two units on, one of them loaded.
 
TT idea will work... it'll be just another line level source. You will miss the opportunity to compare and contrast phono sections, though. However, phono-level switching is not for the faint of heart. It doesn't scale well. Many problems, very quickly.

Apartment-style RF distribution amplifier, without FM traps will satisfy your antenna needs. If you're in a good RF area, even individual dipoles may work. Not sure anyone has modeled the possible interactions. You could also do away with individual RF feeds, and do a 'master tuner' concept like your phono idea. Kind of defeats the purpose of being able to compare/switch between receivers, though.

I hope this box ends up sounding acceptable to you when finished. The miles of extra wire and multiple extra switches are an 'uphill battle' for maintaining quality sound. But I get the attraction and the potential utility of the system.
 
Chip Chester said:
TT idea will work... it'll be just another line level source. You will miss the opportunity to compare and contrast phono sections, though. However, phono-level switching is not for the faint of heart. It doesn't scale well. Many problems, very quickly.

Apartment-style RF distribution amplifier, without FM traps will satisfy your antenna needs. If you're in a good RF area, even individual dipoles may work. Not sure anyone has modeled the possible interactions. You could also do away with individual RF feeds, and do a 'master tuner' concept like your phono idea. Kind of defeats the purpose of being able to compare/switch between receivers, though.

I hope this box ends up sounding acceptable to you when finished. The miles of extra wire and multiple extra switches are an 'uphill battle' for maintaining quality sound. But I get the attraction and the potential utility of the system.
Click to expand...
Ok then the phono will be an add on for later. I'm not interested in testing the phono sections, just the rest.
I want to use the individual tuners so I will go with the apartment RF distribution amplifier for the antenna.
Right now I'm able to use any one of six receivers on demand. As far as I can tell it sounds the same as going straight from the receiver to the speakers. I tried both.
I've found I can learn a lot about different units in a hurry when I can swop out with the push of a button instead of the usual lift and plug method.
I can listen to one for a few hours, move to another for a few hours, go back for a while. It's not a/b for a few seconds, that told me next to nothing.
When a unit comes in that's better than what's on the bubble then the bubble unit goes with no remorse. I may find that only a hand full are really good mid-fi but a least I will know first hand what I'm talking about.
The new Switch Box will replace the two in the picture and add the supporting cast of wires.
I'll pay close attention to avoid coiling and parallel runs. Correct?
 

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And while we're in feature creep mode...
1. Consider having a 'guest receiver' spot that has the hookups ready, but is not occupied. That way you can bring in the inevitable new acquisition and see if it makes the grade without having to dethrone a current occupant. We all know it'll happen.
2. Consider wheels on your cabinet. Probably 6 of them, but not swivel casters -- just straight-line versions. That will let you wheel out, get behind for maintenance, etc. and wheel back without worrying about alignment, etc. Straight out, straight back in. Dress the cabling so you won't risk running over it, or put cable guards on the wheels, that extend down to floor level to push cables away instead of running over them.

Good luck, man!
 
Chip Chester said:
And while we're in feature creep mode...
1. Consider having a 'guest receiver' spot that has the hookups ready, but is not occupied. That way you can bring in the inevitable new acquisition and see if it makes the grade without having to dethrone a current occupant. We all know it'll happen.
2. Consider wheels on your cabinet. Probably 6 of them, but not swivel casters -- just straight-line versions. That will let you wheel out, get behind for maintenance, etc. and wheel back without worrying about alignment, etc. Straight out, straight back in. Dress the cabling so you won't risk running over it, or put cable guards on the wheels, that extend down to floor level to push cables away instead of running over them.

Good luck, man!
Click to expand...
To dethrone is the objective.
It's on wheels now but needs better ones and more of them, will do.
Thanks all for the help. The project moves forward.
I'LL BE BACK!!!!
 
It works, finally. And it was worth the effort. It turns out the switches, contacts and slide rails are of good quality and very durable. But it was defective in another way ,and has been from the day it was made.
Upon first use it appeared that the receivers had lost some of their personality. That defeated the whole purpose and wasn't going to work for me. So I went back into the box and noticed that all the source inputs were common ground. Yes they were all grouped together on the same ground rail. Now they are not. 80 connections later and it's fixed. My soldering skills have certainly improved.
Now all the receivers sing their own distinct song again. I didn't know if that was going to fix the problem but I'm sure glad it did. In the end I was able to remove 3 other switch boxes from the very poor Y/DAISY chain signal path and it's made a big improvement all the way around.
All that's left is a source selector,
this big receiver switch box that swaps out the receivers in their entirety "break before make" at the push of a button,
and the speaker distribution box.
This box was originally used as a quad source box. We all know how that went so it got little use and is in the best shape of the 4 that I had to work with.
For 110 power I used a pair of 12 outlet power strips and ran the receivers strait to them. The whole thing rides on 10 hard rubber wheels, next time I will use 15 plastic wheels with bearings. All of the wiring except the 2 power cords going to the wall are attached to the back of the rolling unit.
It's a good thing I asked for advice on this project or it would have been a trial and error nightmare. You would be surprised how complicated a simple thing can get.
So far I'm glad I went down this road instead of the premium separate audiofile route. That may change but not any time soon, there's plenty to be learned from what's right here in front of me without blowing up the good stuff.
Thank you for all the help.
 

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That is freakin awesome man!!! Congrats on getting it all together and sorted out, it looks great! Clean an tidy you'd never even know they're all hooked up together.
 
Bdbras84 said:
That is freakin awesome man!!! Congrats on getting it all together and sorted out, it looks great! Clean an tidy you'd never even know they're all hooked up together.
Click to expand...
Thank you. This new box is already making it easy to sort the standouts from the just goods in a hurry.
The early results show less than 30 watts is not for me. So the four babies,

The Fisher, Advent, Grundig and KLH gotta go. All good sounding units but still gotta go
.
Next is the "tube sound", or what I'm gonna call the "warm and woolly sound". That sound appears to be coming from the next room. I'm not in the next room, I'm in this room. So they gotta go. That looks like three units,

The Benjamin R2X40/Concord 550, Lafayette 3500 and Grommes 503A. All good sounding units with lots of power but still gotta go.

That leaves in no order .......
Scott 357 & 342c
Heath 1500A
Ward Airline ? --------------------Who made this fine unit?
Yamaha CR 600
Kenwood 140X ------black label on back------------------------------Current leader, HUGE surprise. How can this be?------------------------------
Magnavox 1500
Harman Kardon 780
Sony STR 6065
Lafayette LR 1500TA
Rotel RX 800
Allied 365------------ underdog on the bubble but great unit.
Marantz 2226
Sherwood S8900A
Sansui 5000A
Pioneer SX-1000TW & SX-780
JVC VR5551 & VR5660

The last 19 are all winners and fine examples of turn of the decade hifi, which is what I was after.
 
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