Maverick2020
New Member
Could i run the dac, pre amp and tpa3116 off this in a case? Thanks Hifix!
TPA 3116 vs the tripaths
- Thread starter Poultrygeist
- Start date
trikster
Well-Known Member
Well, got dads old turntable hooked up to my TPA3116 and SainSmart 2-tube buffer (with matched tubes) via a Schiit Mani phono-pre (thanks for the recommendation PG) and even though I didn't have the sub hooked up, my dads favorite album sounded amazing... Credence never sounded so good. Now all I need to figure out is how to clean and lube the track the table slides in/out on. Table opens and closes from the front, been getting stuck for years, dad just never fixed it.
hifix
Active Member
From your earlier post... the PCM1794 board (i'm assuming this is the DAC) needs both a positive and negative supply rail as well as a ground. AC is specified as a requirement for the board. The power supply in question only has a single rail output (positive and ground) DC. Its a definite "no go" for the DAC. If the build is to have audio quality in mind, i'd stick with a dedicated supply for the amp.
Respectfully, i'm not at all with rude intentions but if you are not overly familiar with the power supply aspect, its probably best to get help with this part of the build as the voltages can be lethal.
"If" you are down under (from the AU ebay links - i'm only guessing), you could try a GME power supply. If you dont need the output power, its alot less messing around. This is equivalent to an "Astron" that you might have read about in these forums. Abit pricy when new, but they come up used from time to time. If memory serves me, i got mine for $50.
https://www.gme.net.au/catalogue/power-products/psa1210.aspx
[Edit]... Its "almost" an astron equivalent. If you found the post where the reviewer swaps huge caps in - The huge cap swap wont work with this model as the internal layout is different.
Last edited:
hifix
Active Member
I'd guess so with the banana jacks.
Are you going to give the board a go ?
It seems that all the newer boards have an opamp input stage.
Maverick2020
New Member
I was about to buy that one the other day but got scared by the fact it look different to ti.com drawings. But im new to all this and dont no what im looking at. All I know is I have a beautiful expensive Rotel at home and would love to get a 3116 3251 3255 or a 3886 up and going to compare to it and hopefully one of them is as good as the Rotel and I can flog it off lol. I have sooo much to learn. I might enroll in a electronics night class so I can get better correct knowledge from professionals rather than trial and error and winging it.
That YJ tpa3255 is two channel, TI EVM is not 2 channel.
The YJ LT1083 regulatorboard seems to use Samxon and Samyoung capacitors, I like that better than fake Japanese. Offcourse the Samxon and Samyoung can be fake too, but better looking fakes then
YJ3255 has very obvious fake Chemicon 47uF electrolytic next to powerinput.
YJ=YuanJing
The YJ LT1083 regulatorboard seems to use Samxon and Samyoung capacitors, I like that better than fake Japanese. Offcourse the Samxon and Samyoung can be fake too, but better looking fakes then
YJ3255 has very obvious fake Chemicon 47uF electrolytic next to powerinput. YJ=YuanJing
bubba42
Active Member
I am tempted, maybe a winter project when I am bored. But my trusty Breeze TPA3116 has more than enough power than I need with efficient speakers, as a matter of fact I can barely adjust the volume. I am not sure what the TPA3255 would get me. I'd love to learn about an audio quality comparison.
It says 50V, does it need that much or could one run it with a range up to 50V? I certainly don't need 300W!
It says 50V, does it need that much or could one run it with a range up to 50V? I certainly don't need 300W!
---YJ3255---
Looking at parts used for inputstage's powersupply a 18V minimum would be enough (TI EVM 14V minimum). But looking at how YJ powers the inputstage, there seems to be a problem: For LM2575HV, a switching 15V regulator, the pcb board silkscreen tells us a 220uH inductor is used, TI datasheet also writes about 220uH inductor for this part, picture of the ampboard shows a inductor with printed 220 identification, that is 22uH, a 221 id would be 220uH. There is no support from datasheet for 22uH inductors, no clue about what will go wrong, seems safe to say it won't function as it should.
Last edited:
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I couldn't resist picking up two tiny mono block Arduino TPA 3118's for $1.88 each shipped. Need more TPA's like a hole in the head but this is a configuration I don't have. The seller is erizh-51.
I have these and of all the Chinese boards, to me these are easily the best sounding of the bunch.
Poultrygeist
Lunatic Member
I do like my other 3118 ( Volt+ ) and the 3110 is "Sure" sweet.
Should of said of all the Chinese boards I've tried. I do have the Volt+ and love it. Something about the 3118's that appeal to me over the 3116/3110 boards.
Ground is a important design problem for classD ampboards. Even on the groundplane there are significant voltage differences, created by distance. Remove distance and the ampboard "mostly" sees the audiosource's voltagedifference. Use 3118 instead of 3116 and ground for tpachip is less affected.
CKDC
Super Member
Have you guys ever used something like a 12 or 18 volt battery from power tools to drive one of these amplifiers?
How did it do?
I will be staying in a cabin where there is minimal AC but would still like to have music. So, I am wondering if this might be the way to go since I have several of these batteries.
Thanks.
How did it do?
I will be staying in a cabin where there is minimal AC but would still like to have music. So, I am wondering if this might be the way to go since I have several of these batteries.
Thanks.
Last edited:
Bubel
New Member
Greetings!
I need some help in recommendation for small $25-50 Chinese class D amp to put in in arcade cabinet witch can be used for movies and music.
Possible to get more bass for less $.
I plan to buy some 4 Ohms cars speakers and listening distance will be very short.
PCB and some simple soldering is OK as long as I can purchase componets from China/Hong Kong.
My last choice was Breeze Audio TPA3116 but I heard it should be modded to lower the gain - the nice feature I`d like to have..
Is there detailed instruction how to do that?
Or maybe there other amps witch not pretty loud without any modifications?
I need some help in recommendation for small $25-50 Chinese class D amp to put in in arcade cabinet witch can be used for movies and music.
Possible to get more bass for less $.
I plan to buy some 4 Ohms cars speakers and listening distance will be very short.
PCB and some simple soldering is OK as long as I can purchase componets from China/Hong Kong.
My last choice was Breeze Audio TPA3116 but I heard it should be modded to lower the gain - the nice feature I`d like to have..
Is there detailed instruction how to do that?
Or maybe there other amps witch not pretty loud without any modifications?
Raynald
Addicted Member
A friend used a car starter power pack on a dual chip board and thought it sounded better than a laptop brick or regulated 12V PS.
