TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

If they were both running at ca 20 Volts/5A power into a 6 Ohm loading, the comparison would make more sense, imo.
 
Agreed, but TI doesn't provide the exact equivalent measurement-wise.
One thing I can say is that having looked over the data sheets a good bit, differences in impedance, voltage etc....don't generally change the overall "shape" of the data presented.

More than that the TPA 325x's generally use more voltage and are thus tested that way.
The highest voltage used with TPA 3116/8 is 24V.....and the graphs aren't really that different than they are at 12V
 
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It's interesting that both start distorting more at 6-7k. I imagine that having 1/10th the distortion is not a chocolate-strawberry sort of difference, though I remember reading that the ear is surprisingly tolerant of THD below 1%.
My hunch is that a tricked out tpa325x will be clearly better than a tricked out tpa311x. The Allo Volt's probably come pretty close to realizing the potential of the tpa3118. I'm certain that my $75 with tone controls, bluetooth, and sub out tpa3255 is pretty far from the most you can get out of that chip. On top of that, I'm still listening at 24 volts, which is below what the amp maker recommends.
I've been tempted to try one ot the tpa325x boards from 3e audio.
 
The thing that makes the Allo alluring is the simple purity of design, just the chips with few necessary high quality parts in the signal path and the "tarting up" in the power supply line, where it does the most good. The + and +D benefit from the switch point control in place of a default track pot.
 
It's interesting that both start distorting more at 6-7k. I imagine that having 1/10th the distortion is not a chocolate-strawberry sort of difference, though I remember reading that the ear is surprisingly tolerant of THD below 1%.

Yep high mid-range. The bump often starts at 1K.
TPA 3116 in particular has a problem with it though. That's why the distortion graphs look the way they do at 1W.....'cause it starts long before you get to 1W.
Check the chart below. Elevated 6k distortion is there from the start.

Depends on what kind of distortion you get at 1%.
The figure I hear bandied about, beyond which distortion becomes inaudible, is 0.1%
I've no idea if that's true. But my own experience tells me it's actually lower...say 0.01%.

screenshot_214.jpg
 
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I do know there's stuff about odd vs. even order harmonic distortion not being equal.
 
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On another thread I was asked about SET vs Volt+D. In my experience SET amps resolve more detail at low levels but at moderate levels and above there's little advantage. The Volt+D is more neutral than my SET amps but with less warmth.

Probably my question right? I mentioned it in that thread but what is my Volt+ putting out as far as power with their 19v power supply? 20 watts per channel? What does the Volt+D putting out with the same 19v power supply? If you already answer this question I apologize, I just can't seem to find it.
 
Probably my question right? I mentioned it in that thread but what is my Volt+ putting out as far as power with their 19v power supply? 20 watts per channel? What does the Volt+D putting out with the same 19v power supply? If you already answer this question I apologize, I just can't seem to find it.

You'd have to account for the voltage drop across the capacitance multiplier (if a NPN transistor was used for the CM - i dont think they used a NPN transistor), the voltage drop is just under a 1v so that leaves the chip with around 18v.
From the datasheet you're looking at 18w @ 1% THD+N (into an 8 ohm load).
 
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https://ipfs.io/ipfs/QmXoypizjW3WknFiJnKLwHCnL72vedxjQkDDP1mXWo6uco/wiki/Bridge-tied_load.html

Parallel bridged tied load PBTL produced more voltage with a given power supply input voltage, but it doesn't produce more current. It's not exactly a free lunch, because you're also cutting damping factor in half. It's not that big an advantage with 8 ohm speakers, which I think is one of the reasons pbtl is used in car audio a lot (4ohm drivers).

Subjectively, the Volt+d does put out more power than the Volt+. I've never measured it though.
 
You'd have to account for the voltage drop across the capacitance multiplier (if a NPN transistor was used for the CM - i dont think they used a NPN transistor), the voltage drop is just under a 1v so that leaves the chip with around 18v.
From the datasheet you're looking at 18w @ 1% THD+N (into an 8 ohm load).

Thanks for the information. So that approximate calculation of yours is for the Volt+ or the Volt+D? Or is it roughly the same output for both? And my speakers are 12ohm 97db ZU Audios. How does that factor into the equation?
 
https://ipfs.io/ipfs/QmXoypizjW3WknFiJnKLwHCnL72vedxjQkDDP1mXWo6uco/wiki/Bridge-tied_load.html

Parallel bridged tied load PBTL produced more voltage with a given power supply input voltage, but it doesn't produce more current. It's not exactly a free lunch, because you're also cutting damping factor in half. It's not that big an advantage with 8 ohm speakers, which I think is one of the reasons pbtl is used in car audio a lot (4ohm drivers).

Subjectively, the Volt+d does put out more power than the Volt+. I've never measured it though.

Thanks. That's some good information.

And as long as the Volt+D is putting out even a little more power than my current +, that's all I need to know to place an order for one. If everything about the +D is just a better version of what I currently own, then I am in for a treat. I listened to a lot of music this past weekend and still have a hard time wrapping my brain around how something so inexpensive sounds so spectacular.
 
Power is going to be a calculation of voltage vs loading. For instance, a 12 Ohm load getting 24 Volts passes 2 amps. 2 amps times 24volts is 48 V/A, 48 watts. Of course, other factors affect the actual power, but 24 volts available to a highly efficient Class 'D' diamond bridged output should come close to putting most of the available PS voltage thru whatever the loading is on peak output, up to the design current limit of the output device.
 
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Thanks for the information. So that approximate calculation of yours is for the Volt+ or the Volt+D? Or is it roughly the same output for both? And my speakers are 12ohm 97db ZU Audios. How does that factor into the equation?

That was for the volt+. The dual chip setup can output more power only at lower impedance loads. If the speaker loads that you are running dont dip below 4 ohms, most of the power gains are not there to be had.
The larger power numbers are only for 2 & 3 ohm loads, where the 2 chips can output more current (min load @ 3.2ohm vs 1.6ohm PBTL).
The TPA3118 has a modest voltage rail which isn't doubled or summed for PBTL opreation, so the max power transmitted into a 12 ohm load is going to be less than than that into 8 ohm. At a "guess"... 16 - 20 usable watts at full tilt. With PBTL, you just get more current (for the more difficult loads). Same maximum output voltage.
 
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my volt+D just arrived this AM. have it running and so far i like it a lot. lots of detail typical of the 3116 family but decent bass through my bozak B501s.

my only complaint is that it arrived without a volume knob; luckily i had a little chicken head knob that looks nice with it. i am using one of those remote control switches you use for xmas trees to be an on/off switch; like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFU...t=&hvlocphy=9008156&hvtargid=pla-273878094210

i have the gain switch set on the lower setting. anyone notice any differences (besides gain) when toggling those switches? also another set of switches on the bottom of the board; what are those? 120 v 220? last question: what you all think about the power supply brick? is it worth it using a linear power supply instead and, if so, what pins would i have to solder to?
 
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I turn my Volt+D on and off with one of these strapped to the leg of my rack.

3863888
 
just want to make sure i get the plug type/dimensions correct
from the website: "Power Connector Jack Barrel size: 3.00mm ID (0.118"), 6.50mm OD (0.256")"

king bubba,
i'm not finding them on the bay. maybe searching wrong... can you help me out:)
 
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