A couple months ago, I'd typed up a couple of very long posts describing every step of this project in detail. Unfortunately, those posts were lost forever, when the forum crashed. But, I didn't want to leave this thread hanging. So, here's a much more brief summary:
Paint used on the grill frames and front baffles: Ace Instant Drying Lacquer - Flat Black. I've used a lot of rattle cans over the years, but I really like this stuff. As the name implies, it dries fast. It covers well and I got absolutely no running, steaks or orange peel. Good stuff and affordable to boot.
Resist the temptation to use anything other than flat black paint for the grill frames when using light colored grill cloth. I thought about using some beige paint for the grill frames, but I'm glad I didn't. Think about it. Nearly everything behind the grill is black - the front baffle, driver cones, surrounds and dust caps. If you're grill frames are anything other than black, they will stand out like a sore thumb.
I almost didn't repaint the front baffles. They weren't perfect, but not too bad. And, who would ever see them besides me? My main concern was the potential for getting black paint on the oak veneer, that I'd already prepped for the final finish. So, rather than the usual generic blue painter's tape, I tried something called 3M Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Delicate Surfaces #2080 with EdgeLock. This stuff worked great. Just take your time when applying it and you'll get perfect edge lines. It's available at all the usual home improvement centers and paint stores and for projects like this, well worth the extra buck to buck and a half per roll. I only bought one roll and have enough left over for future projects.
OK, I not the detailed, step-by-step summary I'd previously typed up, but I think most of the info can be found somewhere in this thread. Thanks to all who helped and participated. Here's a photographic summary of the before:
GREAT THREAD!
I have the L19 little brother and went for the original linseed oil finish, stock cloth plus driver repairs. Wish you'd been around a year earlier with these,I would have plagiarized your ideas mercilessly. They look fabulous.
A couple months ago, I'd typed up a couple of very long posts describing every step of this project in detail. Unfortunately, those posts were lost forever, when the forum crashed. But, I didn't want to leave this thread hanging. So, here's a much more brief summary:
Paint used on the grill frames and front baffles: Ace Instant Drying Lacquer - Flat Black. I've used a lot of rattle cans over the years, but I really like this stuff. As the name implies, it dries fast. It covers well and I got absolutely no running, steaks or orange peel. Good stuff and affordable to boot.
Resist the temptation to use anything other than flat black paint for the grill frames when using light colored grill cloth. I thought about using some beige paint for the grill frames, but I'm glad I didn't. Think about it. Nearly everything behind the grill is black - the front baffle, driver cones, surrounds and dust caps. If you're grill frames are anything other than black, they will stand out like a sore thumb.
I almost didn't repaint the front baffles. They weren't perfect, but not too bad. And, who would ever see them besides me? My main concern was the potential for getting black paint on the oak veneer, that I'd already prepped for the final finish. So, rather than the usual generic blue painter's tape, I tried something called 3M Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Delicate Surfaces #2080 with EdgeLock. This stuff worked great. Just take your time when applying it and you'll get perfect edge lines. It's available at all the usual home improvement centers and paint stores and for projects like this, well worth the extra buck to buck and a half per roll. I only bought one roll and have enough left over for future projects.
OK, I not the detailed, step-by-step summary I'd previously typed up, but I think most of the info can be found somewhere in this thread. Thanks to all who helped and participated. Here's a photographic summary of the before:
Hi, i just picked up a pair, and in a first look of them, i will need both midranges, what you recommend me, were i can start? Im curious about recharging the magnets ...Hi, I just finished a complete restoration of a pair of L100s: new walnut veneer, new foam cube grills (blue), recone of the 123a woofers, complete crossover rebuild. Tweeters and mids were ok.
I opted to have Orange County Speakers do the 123a because i read the voice coils have a very narrow gap that is trickier than most. My experience with them was stellar. The cost was significantly higher than diy, but it also included a recharge of the magnets and a warranty.
I'm happy to share anything else if you have further questions.
John
Hi, i just picked up a pair, and in a first look of them, i will need both midranges, what you recommend me, were i can start? Im curious about recharging the magnets ...
Hi,I have a pair of the same and I am wondering how tall your stands are? My current stands are around a foot but I have been hunting for a nice set at around 18 - 20 " . I would think your stands must be in the 20" range?
MCM_Fan, I can't get enough of your Decades. Did you ever post a detailed restoration thread? I can't find it. I'm particularly interested in how you stretched and attached the grill cloth so well.
(In your thread on LH the pictures are all broken because Photobucket. See http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?38345-JBL-L36-Decades-Reimagined)
Thanks.