Veneering a Receiver - Those Darn Screw Holes!

[two.dogs]

OK so I've just removed the cigarette-burned vinyl and put walnut veneer on a Pioneer SX-750. Now I have to re-open the screw holes on the sides. How is it done without shredding the veneer?

Twodogs

 

[fernarias]

Use blue tape over the hole to prevent tear out. Then use a very sharp xacto blade (new) in a sawing motion to open up the hole. You can practice by starting at the middle of the hole and slowly opening it up.

 

[ghazzer]

I've never tried this, just a WAG.

Cover the screw hole with a piece of thin tape.
Use a "fine" or "ultra-fine" pen and precisely mark the outline of the hole on the tape.
Drill a hole in a piece of ~½" hardwood that is the same size, or slightly smaller, than your screw hole.
Clamp the piece of hardwood over the veneered piece so that the hole is dead center over the outline.
Drill out the veneer without going too deep.
Remove the guide and the tape.
If needed, clean up the edges of the veneer with fine sandpaper.

You may need to touch up the edges of the veneer with some stain.

 

[two.dogs]

I did the tape and xacto method. Have to admit I was totally stressed out but it worked well. I wrapped sandpaper around a dowel to smooth things out after cutting the holes.



I

 

[Blue Shadow]

That wood looks thirsty but once fully lubricated with your finish of choice it is gonna POP. Looking forward to that set of pictures.

 

[sKiZo]

Lookin' good!

There's also various size recessed ring washers available to pretty them up. Then again, it would have been a lot easier to match the holes to the washers before drilling, so hey ... forget I mentioned it. <G>

 

[ghazzer]

I think that AKer Princever has a .STL file for having some of those "cup" washers 3D printed. You would have to make adjustments to the solid model so it would match the diameter and depth of the hole in your case. (I had to say that carefully!).

 

[toxcrusadr]

If drilling, I think a Forstner bit in a drill press would be best for this, as it has a flat cutting surface instead of being pointed. Might help reduce tearout. I'd do it from inside if possible, with a backer board underneath.

The Xacto knife seems to work dandy though.

 

[spark1]

Looks like a good solution.

I have two related questions:

1. How did you get a good fit on the top panel? It seems to me that it must fit perfectly between the two side panels, which are slightly raised above the top panel.

2. How did you handle the cut out for the vent?

EDIT: Duh. I was thinking of the metal vent on the SX-780. I would think that this is not an issue for the SX-750. But if anyone can suggest how to do it for the 780, sure would appreciate it.

Also, just curious, what "format" of veneer did you use? Paper backed, pre-glued, etc? (sorry, that makes three questions!).

Thanks!!

 

[sKiZo]

Look close and the grain of the tops of the panels doesn't match that of the sides. I'd think a strip of veneer across the top of each side after the top was glued in place. Overlap the top just a bit and the seam disappears. I imagine corner blocks were used to reinforce the connections as well.

Then again, maybe not ... ;-}

 

[spark1]

Look close and the grain of the tops of the panels doesn't match that of the sides. I'd think a strip of veneer across the top of each side after the top was glued in place. Overlap the top just a bit and the seam disappears. I imagine corner blocks were used to reinforce the connections as well.

Then again, maybe not ... ;-}

On the 780, the side panels are higher than the top panel, so that doesn't work. And yes, I plan to use edge strips for the top side of the side panels. My fundamental concern is getting a perfectly sized piece for the top panel, since it cannot be trimmed in place to fit.

 

[toxcrusadr]

Well, that is an interesting question. I have a 750 and a sheet of veneer waiting to be put together myself.

 

[ghazzer]

Looks like the side pieces were off when he cleaned out the holes. so there must be some way to mount them to the top. He probably veneered and trimmed the top with the sides off.

 

[spark1]

On the 780 the sides are not separate. Might be able to work one side free and the reglue it afterwards.

 

[two.dogs]

I used peel and stick 3M walnut veneer.

1. Started with the narrow strip on top of the side panel. I clamped a straight edge to the top to locate the seam so I wouldn't be sticking down the veneer freehand. I cut it a little wide and it overhang the side about 1/16 inch then block sanded for a perfect fit.
2. Carefully measured and cut the top exactly to width and stuck it down. I let the front and back overhang a bit and block sanded them flush.
3. Stuck down the top of the other side panel and block sanded that flush to the side.
4. The sides were easy.
5. Did the holes with xacto and dowel wrapped with sandpaper.
6. Cut walnut (not veneer) blocks for the sides of the aluminum front panel
7. I'm finishing with Sam Maloof formula over naked walnut. No filler or sanding sealer. Might do beeswax after if I want a bit more sheen. Maloof is pretty flat.

For the holes I was thinking about filling them with a dowel before veneering, then drilling from inside out to locate the center, then redrilling on a drill press. I was worried about drilling through the veneer without a solid backing behind it. I think the xacto method is way to go. After the 4th hole I was getting it down. Maybe a good idea to practice on a 2x4 first. I didn't try to disassemble the case - just hooked it over the side of my workbench to work on the sides.

It will look good when completed. There are some lighter areas on the pics below because I had just lightly used some steel wool. Still a few more coats to go. I'm ready to tackle the SX-780 that I bought with no case. I'll make a plywood case, veneer it, then fabricate a vent out of some perforated steel from an old computer server rack.

 

[ghazzer]

One tip worth mentioning is not to leave the tape on too long or it might pull up fibers of the veneer when removed. Pull the tape with the grain and pull it towards the hole, from both sides.

Nice work - - -

 

[jheu02]

Looks like a good solution.

I have two related questions:

1. How did you get a good fit on the top panel? It seems to me that it must fit perfectly between the two side panels, which are slightly raised above the top panel.

2. How did you handle the cut out for the vent?

EDIT: Duh. I was thinking of the metal vent on the SX-780. I would think that this is not an issue for the SX-750. But if anyone can suggest how to do it for the 780, sure would appreciate it.

Also, just curious, what "format" of veneer did you use? Paper backed, pre-glued, etc? (sorry, that makes three questions!).

Thanks!!

I ended up making a case for a 780 from scratch. Originally I just peeled off the vinyl and was going to stain the underlying wood, but the veneer left enough residue that the stain didn't take too well.

I made the top a little extra DEEP to cover a badly scratched top aluminum piece. Router bit on the top to flush-fit the metal grill. Here's a link to my flickr album of the recap and new case. It was a first time trying anything like that, and while far from perfect, worked out ok.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/42311086@N07/albums/72157629338086989/with/8276384418/