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Welp, I found my fuel problem. Here's a weird one.

Discussion in 'Wheels, Wings, Mud, and Water' started by beat_truck, Jul 10, 2018.

  1. quaddriver

    quaddriver 120 What's per channel Subscriber

    any chance critters (bees) built a nest in the cannister at one point and the 24x7 chewing has left it in a shambles?

    antique plates means no inspections, but it also means dont get caught driving it too many innocuous places.
     

     

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  2. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    The canister looks OK, but it has to be junk.

    I don't live near Pittsburgh, so I'm likely OK. Not many cops around here, and the ones that are don't seem to care about much. It's not my only vehicle, anyhow.

    I drove my Aspire for 4 years and probably 35k with no inspection sticker on it.:biggrin: Plus several other vehicles at various times over the years. I only got caught in the Aspire when I went into Pittsburgh one time. The fine ended up being the same cost or less than the stickers for it would have been. My neighbor hasn't had an inspection sticker on any of his work vehicles in well over 10 years. He laughed and joked that the only stickers they ever had on them was when he bought them brand new.:rflmao:

    I at least go to a "lick 'em and stick 'em" place and get my stickers, now.
     
  3. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    I don't intentionally do it, but when I fill it at certain places, the pump doesn't stop until it pukes some gas down the bedside.:rolleyes:
     
  4. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    I just read on the \6 forum that I can get a '70s vacuum advance distributor and convert it to HEI using the coil and ignition module from a mid '90s GM. It's all inexpensive, off the shelf parts with very little fabbing or wiring. Even the wiring pigtails are available from the parts stores.:banana:
     
  5. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    No. As I said, everything was hooked as per the emission sticker under the hood, except for the ported vacuum line for the canister purge valve, because when the purge valve would open, it would run like shit.

    The charcoal canister has the purge valve built in. I tore it apart, made sure the diaphragm was good and the valve opens when it is supplied vacuum.

    The canister/purge valve assembly has four lines, three large and one small. They are marked too, so they should be right. The large lines are: one going to the tank, one to the bowl vent, one to a vacuum source on the carb. The small line, which opens the purge valve, goes to a thermal switch, which then goes to ported vacuum on the carb. The big problem I've had since I rebuilt the carb and replaced all the vacuum lines was always when the purge valve opened, it would act like there was a huge vacuum leak in the canister. If I pinched off the large vacuum hose between the carb and canister, it would run normally.

    Make sense? I could always try to snap a pic of the vacuum diagram.
     
  6. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,802
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    HEI just needs a pickup in the distributor to work with. Honestly most of the sane electronic ignitions operate in a similar manner. You should be able to use 70s Chrysler electronic, Ford DuraSpark, HEI, or for the ultimate in stealth, gut the Chrysler module and stick an HEI module inside it. A friend of mine runs that on his Grand Marquis, box is Ford Duraspark, guts are GM HEI.
     

     

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  7. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    Either way, I still have to swap distributors because the lean burn junk doesn't have a vacuum advance at all. I took it that the '70s Chrysler electronic setup still used a ballast resistor. No? That's why I wanted something else like GM HEI. The \6 forum also said that the original coil was not a good match for HEI, I didn't really read into why.
     
  8. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,802
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    oh, electronic advance only? Yeah NFG. I've never actually seen an intact and working lean burn. I've known a few people who had cars that were originally equipped, but all of them had been removed before I ever knew them.

    yeah 70s Chrysler electronic runs a ballast resistor. Ford used a resistor wire. HEI does not. I'm sure people have figured out what the preferred coils to use with an HEI besides the GM one, its not something I've ever researched myself.
     
  9. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    I got the truck back together and running with the charcoal canister unhooked and carb vacuum ports capped, so at least it isn't a dead horse anymore.

    IMO, it runs damned good for a little 6 banger with a crippled ignition system in a full size truck. I don't know why driving the old archaic turd with no power anything puts a smile on my face, but it does. I guess I got some dain bramage.:crazy::D

    Maybe I'll get another charcoal canister later and play with it. Maybe I'll run it like it is. But, I have other more important things to work on right now.
     
  10. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    Someone on the \ 6 forum referred me to an article on allpar about the evap systems that Mopar used.
    http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html

    The article had one very interesting bit of information. It said "The canister must be kept upright, with the ports at the top."

    Mine is mounted horizontally.:idea: It looks factory, but with the way some things on the truck have been hacked in the past, it very well may not be. The canister is mounted to the inner fender, and I know that the fender on that side was changed at some point. I really can't remember how the ones in the trucks in the junkyard were mounted.

    That makes some sense, now doesn't it? I guess you would want the charcoal towards the bottom, away from the vacuum fittings.:rolleyes:
     
  11. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,802
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    "this end up" actually means something? Surely you jest.
     

     

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  12. quaddriver

    quaddriver 120 What's per channel Subscriber

    cuidado! just because there is no longer a vacuum motor to move spark timing, does not mean it is not moved ELECTRICALLY! you could end up with an unworkable solution quickly....
     
  13. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    The electrically controlled distributor does (somewhat) work currently, but according to everyone including the die hard Mopar fans, the "lean burn" system was poor performing unreliable junk from the time it was new. I'm fairly mechanically inclined (it was my job for several years), and there are detailed instructions, complete with part numbers and wiring diagrams, available on how to convert it to a regular vacuum advance distributor. I should be fine.
     
  14. Shadowdog

    Shadowdog Super Member

    Messages:
    2,800
    Location:
    Flin Flon, Manitoba
    I converted a Triumph TR7 several years ago to use a HEI module with a Chrysler pickup coil.in the dist. Had to get a brass bushing made by a machine shop to fit the reluctor and used an 8 cylinder one. It worked great! HEI as mentioned needs 12 volts so no ballast resistor or resistor wire.

    The coil has to be about 0.5 ohms for it to work at it's best also! STD makes them and you can also use an external coil for the HEI used in 4 cylinder 80's S-10's and some FWD GM 2.5L 4 cyl GM cars from the 80's. It's not oil filled and looks like a transformer and it's less $.

    I want to put HEI in my Father's 87 Mercruiser GM 3.0L 4 cyl instead of the points, but you need the Mercury module as the dist. doesn't have timing advance weights as it uses the module. Mercruiser stuff is very pricy$ for some stuff like that!

    After swapping in a new rebuilt short block/ new head it ran nice at first , but ran poorly after a while and this happened sooner till all the time. New points didn't help so I knew it had to be the condenser/capacitor after I tried a spare coil.

    Nobody stocks those around here and a fellow on a forum said they are made to fail anyway, and he tested Coupling Caps with his scope to get the right ones to match a good working stock condenser/cap. He recommended 600-1000V 0.22 uF and I had 2
    .47 uF 600V caps which I ran in series (they don't have to be in dist. and one end goes to the (-) coil with the other end grounded) and back to a nice running engine. Probably good for 20-30 yrs! LOL!
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018
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  15. Eric H

    Eric H AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    7,444
    Location:
    So. Calif
    You can put a fuel filter in line with the bowl vent to keep the junk out of the carb, and still have a (more or less) functional evap system.
     
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  16. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
    SW PA
    I'm almost 100% positive that's the coil that they were saying to get. I think a lot of GM's later motors with distributors used them.
     

     

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  17. beat_truck

    beat_truck Super Member

    Messages:
    2,459
    Location:
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    When/if I put another canister on it, I will do that as cheap insurance.
     
  18. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,802
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    There gets into a lot of specific USCG ratings for marine stuff. While it might work, if anything ever happens to that boat where you need to file an insurance claim it will likely get denied if any of the electrical stuff doesn't have the proper ratings and stamps and such to go with it. Thats part of why marine stuff is more expensive. The other reason is because boat.
     
  19. quaddriver

    quaddriver 120 What's per channel Subscriber

    and the uscg can pinch ya in a spot inspection...the marine dizzy has changes to trap flashovers if fumes get into it, so the boat does not become a plane. there are plenty of marine parts out there (some from jegs even) that aint too bad
     
  20. gadget73

    gadget73 junk junkie Subscriber

    Messages:
    36,802
    Location:
    Southern NJ
    yep, its there for a reason. I've known people who had boats go boom before. Friend of ours found out he had a very small fuel leak, a messed up starter, and an inop blower when he put it in once. Hit the key and he said all he heard was "fwoomp" and one of the round plastic covers that was in the deck of the boat blew out. The fuel vapor flashed and went out immediately, nothing stayed burning. He immediately hauled it and figured out what happened and why. Got damn lucky if you ask me, considering he was standing on a fuel/air bomb at the time. I don't know if it was not a marine starter, or just one that was messed up but apparently there was a crack in the plastic where the solenoid is so it shot sparks out when he keyed it.
     

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