What's best to clean the face of a vintage receiver?

y2keglide

Super Member
Hi all,it's been a long long time since I stopped in here.
Life threw some curves at me so I've had very little time for this stereo stuff while getting life back in order.
My old Marantz 2240 has been chugging along fine like the rock solid piece it is so I've had tunes but had to pretty much give up garage sale and goodwill finds to play with but then this thing just fell in my lap so to speak.
A friend had it in storage for quite a few years after his wife passed on and has been cleaning out the shed and house lately. He said it worked when it was put away but for some reason doesn't now, I haven't plugged it in yet to see if it lights up or anything. He called me and asked if I wanted it knowing I like old stereo stuff so I said maybe how much? He said free just come get it, well of course I couldn't pass that up.
He didn't even know what make it was, he's about half blind I guess. lol
So I figure I'll pull the cover off and clean it up with some deoxit to see what happens.
It's filthy dirty and I'd like to clean the face up so my question for you all is what can I use that won't damage the finish and numbers etc.? Oh! by the way it's a big old Kenwood model Eleven G, this thing is huge!
250watts (125 per channel) so for an early '70's receiver it's a real beast. Should be fun if I can wake it up.001.JPG
 
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It was in a small mobile home with a woodstove and they were smokers so it's really dirty,the wood is in pretty good shape and I know how to take care of that.
I was a cabinetmaker for many years before the great recession and have done a lot of furniture refinishing so that part is easy for me.
This tar and gunk on the face is another story,I don't want to do any more damage than has already been done trying to clean it.
 
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Back in the day, manufactures recommended cleaning faceplates with vinegar/water mix. Vinegar is a mild acid, and will work. Lately, I've used Windex, and or a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Just do not oversaturate the faceplate with fluid, avoiding getting fluid behind the faceplate. After cleaning, I use a really good car wax to shine up the faceplate. After the waxing, the faceplate feels like new. Have a supply of Q-Tips for tight areas. Pull knobs, let them soak in Windex, (they will have the most grime on them from being used more often. Use a light touch, as mentioned, to avoid letter removal.
 
Back in the day, manufactures recommended cleaning faceplates with vinegar/water mix. Vinegar is a mild acid, and will work. Lately, I've used Windex, and or a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Just do not oversaturate the faceplate with fluid, avoiding getting fluid behind the faceplate. After cleaning, I use a really good car wax to shine up the faceplate. After the waxing, the faceplate feels like new. Have a supply of Q-Tips for tight areas. Pull knobs, let them soak in Windex, (they will have the most grime on them from being used more often. Use a light touch, as mentioned, to avoid letter removal.
Thanks! I have a Mr C eraser and Q-tips around here already as well as Windex. I knew the gang here would have all the answers!
 
In my case as my Integrated unit had a glass face plate I used 20/20 glass cleaner by Eagle one. You can get it foam or liquid. Napa makes a generic cleaner that smells the same and works just as well. It cleans my Apple I MAC and Mac book pro quite effectivly including the metal and the Keyboards. I apply the liguid to a rag first lightly to clean the keys with out liquid dripping inside. It works on car windows, too. Sprayaway make a great glass cleaner too.
 
Microfiber clothes with a mild soap work really well, I find.

Stubborn areas may require a solvent, just be careful.

Car wax is a good tip, though many car waxes are mildly abrasive and clean/polish as well as protect.

RE: Glass cleaner, almost anything can be used as glass cleaner, including plain water. The key with cleaning glass is to wipe with a dry cloth to prevent water spots.
 
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