If you're restoring one from scratch, you can get the sds boards from triode. It takes care of high voltage on the caps. Also it gives you the option of going SS on the board for B+ (which i did but if I had to do it again I think I'd use plug in rectifier). This frees the rectifier filament winding to be used as a bucking winding. Kills 2 birds with one stone pretty much for free. The PS boards cost little more than new can cap and resistors. In the vein of the last comment they sell a pretty slick bias/balance control. I thought maybe it was a bit over the top (especially if you went through the trouble of buying matched outputs) but I like many others got carried away during the build.