Wireless, Used For Hours & Hours Each Day Home Phone

NoTransistors

Dual Turntables Super-Restorer
I was on the phone with a friend in Ohio, while repairing a ShureV15 III. When I was done with the repair, I turned on the Scott amp, tried to play a record. Got a loud hummmmmmmmmm in one channel. Hum was only with selector set to 'phono', and after some tinkering, and switching cartridges, I figured it was a 12AX7, even though I had never lost one. Switched out the four Telefunken 12AX7 and still the hum.
You know what it was? Come on, take a wild guess. Still stumped? I'll tell you.

It was the wireless phone.

God only knows what these phones do to our brains. I am going to shop for an old Bell wired phone.

 
These things owe their existence to little nasty buzzing semi conductors of which they're full of. Get a tube wireless phone and your troubles are over. Dang transistors!
 
Like those tube radios in bombers. Made to work after the E.M. pulse following a nuclear detonation.
 
I just had to move my system to the other side of the room because of RFI and some hum coming from a new fridge. I wasn't aware that the slight hum I was getting was also from the fridge. I just thought it was because of using twisted pairs for my phono stage build instead of shielded cable.
 
For the last 50 years, I have had the same interference on FM tuners, at previous house and and this new location; with the Scott 350, the Fisher FM100B, Sansui QR-6500, Pioneer TX-9500 II, ETC.

Think you have got my drift. Have no idea what it is or where it is from. But it, or something else, also affects A.M, as up until digital TV [which I hate because it hurts my eyes] came along, TV pictures were usually unwatchable. TV picture on analog broadcasts is AM.

And about the conditioners mentioned above: There are some types on A.C. line noise that are impossible for anything to filter out. And the airborne crap is another story.
 
I have a Western Electric 500 on my desk in the stereo room. It works like a champ. Still has the Bakelite headset, you could probably knock somebody's brains out with it.
I'd love to get a WECO 300, found one at a local antique store but walked past it to look at other items in the room. Guy who walked in behind me bought it.
 
A bakelite phone is just a bit too antiquish for me. I am more apt to get a plastic phone with matching coiled cord [that is the hard part]. These things used to come in a rainbow of colors. Push-button, carbon mic, mylar speaker, made in early 1970s..
 
A bakelite phone is just a bit too antiquish for me. I am more apt to get a plastic phone with matching coiled cord [that is the hard part]. These things used to come in a rainbow of colors. Push-button, carbon mic, mylar speaker, made in early 1970s..
It's got a coiled cord but the only way to detach it is to open up the phone and disconnect it from the terminal block. My brother-in-law gave it to me and I couldn't resist repairing it and putting it back into service. I think it was made in the early-1960's was one of the last with Bakelite.
My wife and I were at an antique shop a few weeks ago, there were three WECO 500s all with plastic headsets, all in different colors. None of them were pushbutton.
10-digit dialing with a rotary phone isn't much fun. Pushbutton is the way to go. I can't use my phone for call systems either because you can't push "1" with a dial phone.
 
We have FiOS, and both rotary phones work fine (we have a wall unit also). Comcast and FiOS, I've used the rotaries on both.
 
Furman has some neat power conditioners for this purpose for around $100 and they're kinda like a fancy $15 power strip with a EMI/RFI filter that does the same power conditioning job.

Sometimes these devices work just as well isolating the source of the problem as they do isolating other devices from the problem. For example, it's worth a try to plug the fridge itself into the device in order to protect all your other devices from the interference, instead of buying a bunch of filters for every device and letting the fridge get away scot-free. (Whatever that idiom means...) (Possibly biased source: https://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/2015/04/15/scot-free-origin/ )

Also, dial tones come from the CO/phone line, not the phone itself. And there are interfaces that will convert pulse/rotary to touch-tone in the background. So go ahead and get wired-up!
 
It may have been the power supply in the phone, not the transmitter. Switcher supplies are notoriously horrible if they are poorly made, and low cost consumer gear tends to use exactly that. I have a nice SWPS that I've used with and around all sorts of gear that is perfectly well behaved, yet the lights in the workshop hash the AM band out pretty badly.
 
A very good thought, but the interference with the Scott was definitely from the handset, not base.
Also, on my Dual 701, I unsoldered the mother board jumper between the power supply circuit and the motor electronics. Then, hooked the factory tranny to a Brooklyn-made switching supply and then to the motor. No noise. And better speed stability because of newer-design components that do not temperature-drift. While an analog power supply made by the same company would have been cheaper and I suppose silent, this is what I had in my parts bin.
So even though the switching supply was made for the alarm industry, it is quiet. You are certainly spot- on about quality.
 
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I have one of the good RS dial candlestick replecas, hadn't thought to try it on the Verizon FIOS.
 
Have you seen the prices of Western Electric rotary phones on eBay? We are talking 50-60 bucks for a nice one.
Mine still usually works when the power is out, that is why I have always kept it around.
 
Even if I had a no-power-required phone, it would not have a snowball's chance in hell of working in a power outage. Fios, the s^*t that it is, still requires power. You can imagine how rich that company is. They are a monopoly here. Their TV picture fidelity sucks when compared to rabbit-ear picture, old analog phone voice was definitely superior as well, and they don't even pay for electricity.
 
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