Yamaha CX-1 Thread

The last part of the Main PCB-1 is the System Control.
C200: 4700µF/5.5v Nichicon "Gold Cap" type cap for the system memory. Replace with: not sure yet.(11mm dia [12mm max] 5mm lead spacing)
C198, C202: 10µF/16v Elna brown. Parts list shows 50v. Replace with Panasonic FC 50v.

C200 is the yellow cap to the left of the Controller chip. Above the controller are C189 & 190 2200µF and the Main PCB-2 Phono MM daughter card.

DSC04543.jpg

Cheers,
James
 
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amr2 said:
The Nichicon "GoldCap" perhaps doesn’t need to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I've been discussing that with a friend at work. We're speculating that even if the cap drops significantly in µF it would still be able to supply a memory backup of months of duration.

Still, it would be useful to the larger Yamaha community to identify a replacement.

Cheers,
James
 
Tone-Con PCB-2:

This board mounts the motorized Main Volume pot, motorized Input Selector, Motor Drive and Mute/Mute Drive/audio Mute Drive.

Motorized volume control:
C554, C555: 47µF/25v Elna brown (5mm dia [8mm max]). Signal path. Replace with Nichicon KL low leakage 35v.
C558: 1µF/50v Nichicon black BP. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

Motorized Input Selector:
C663: 1µF/50v Nichicon balck BP. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

Motor Drive:
C562: 100µF/16v Elna brown (5mm dia). Shown in parts list as 25v. Replace with Panasonic FC 25v.
C564: 0.33µF/50v Elna brown. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

Mute Drive/Audio Mute Drive:
C557, C559: 1µF/50v Nichicon black BP. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

The 2x 47µF volume pot signal path caps are hiding up in the right front corner of the board between the volume pot/motor and the side/front of the case. I'll try to remember to take a photo of them when I replace them.

DSC04537.jpg DSC04554.jpg DSC04555.jpg DSC04556.jpg

Cheers,
James
 
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OK. The last board. Tone-Con PCB-1. Mounts the 20db Amp, Tone Control and Phones Drive.

20db Amp:
C518, C519: 2200µF/25v Elna Duorex (16mm dia [16mm max] 7.5mm lead spacing). Replace with Panasonic FC 2700µF/35v.
C517, C520: 47µF/25v Nichicon Muse (6.5mm [8mm max]). Signal path. Replace with Nichicon KL 35v.

Tone Control:
C539, C544: 330µF/16v Elna brown (8mm dia [10mm max]). Signal path. Replace with Nichicon KL 25v.
C547, C548: 10µF/25v Elna brown. Parts list shows 50v. Replace with Panasonic FC 35v.
C523, C530: 1µF/50v Elna brown. Signal path. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.
C526, C527: 0.22µF/50v Elna brown. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

Phones Drive:
C533, C534: 47µF/16v Elna brown. Parts list shows 50v. Replace with Panasonic FC 25v.
C531, C536: 10µF/25v Elna brown. Parts list shows 50v. I think that these are in the signal path but am not completely sure. Replace with Wima MKS2 10µF/50v. Shoehorn fit but works.
C550, C552, C553: 1µF/50v Elna brown. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.
C556: 0.1µF/50v Elna brown. Replace with Wima MKS-2 63v.

DSC04532.jpg DSC04533.jpg DSC04534.jpg DSC04548.jpg DSC04549.jpg

Cheers,
James
 
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OK. So that's every elco in the amp afaik. Hopefully this might save someone else some time later on down the road.

I still have to look into the relays and find replacements. If possible I want to find Finder relays for them. Should be just a 12v version of the 24v ones that I've been using. I like the Finders so much because of their silver/nickel contacts and I see them get used in heavy duty applications. We use them in the parking garage gate motor controllers at the hospital where I work. They open about 6000 times a week on average, all year round. So rounded off that's over 300,000 contact cycles a year in all weather and temps. I don't recall offhand how many amps the motors draw but I think we can say that it's more than an amp. We replace them every 3 to 5 years. Call it roughly a round 1 million cycles before replacement. Should hold up for a year or 10 in the average amplifier.

For the Wima film caps that will be directly in the signal path I'll order the polypropylene versions. The cost is only a bit more than the regular ones.

When I work up a buy list I'll post it and eventually make a pdf or spreadsheet of it.

In the meantime I've been enjoying the heck out of my system with the CX-1 in it. :music::banana::banana::music: :beerchug:

Later,
James

edit: Bad choice of relay. See later posts, original relays are available at Mouser.
 
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One more thought. I keep coming back to C212 33µF Muse in the protection section. I haven't worked on all that many amps but this is the first time that I've seen a Nichicon Muse cap used in the protection section.

So I'm guessing that they wanted to achieve the lowest possible leakage here? I'll have to be careful about this I suppose. Looks like a 33µF KZ Muse in 25v has 8mm dia and 50v has 10mm dia. I'll have to see what fits.

Cheers,
James
 
i READ Through your write up. I am confused, is there a problem? with the preamp I have a cx-2 , it is not as well made as your cx-1. but it sounds fine to me.
 
:) No, no problems at all at this time. In fact it sounds great.

But caps age and I plan on keeping this control amp until they put me in a box. What happens after that will be my son's problem. But in the mean time what I'm doing by replacing the 19yo caps can be called preventative maintenance. Plus of course I was just curious about how this thing is built. And if by going through it and documenting it helps someone else out later, well, that's just the gravy.

Cheers,
James
 
Bratwurst7s said:
I haven't worked on all that many amps but this is the first time that I've seen a Nichicon Muse cap used in the protection section.
Click to expand...
I have no clue. Maybe the " brother-in-law effect". The M-series amplifiers ( Red LED power meters) used a 100µf/10v "blackgate" in the protect circuit. Why..:dunno:.
 
avionic said:
I have no clue. Maybe the " brother-in-law effect". The M-series amplifiers ( Red LED power meters) used a 100µf/10v "blackgate" in the protect circuit. Why..:dunno:.
Click to expand...

Well, I'm guessing that at least it shouldn't be a problem to put another Muse in there. :)

Cheers,
James
 
avionic said:
I have no clue. Maybe the " brother-in-law effect". The M-series amplifiers ( Red LED power meters) used a 100µf/10v "blackgate" in the protect circuit. Why..:dunno:.
Click to expand...

What's your take on this one...

"The schematic and parts list both show caps C206 and C211 as being 2.2µF/50v and they are both directly in the signal path (symmetricaly L&R) in the "0-DB Amp" section. I found that C211 is a 2.2µF/25v Nichicon Muse as listed/shown but C206 is a 22µF/25v Elna Duorex. I'm not understanding the reasoning behind that because to my untrained eye their position in the 2 channels is exactly the same so I would guess that their function would be the same and that their size should be the same."

2.2µF for a cap directly in the signal path seems pretty low, while 22µF seems like what I've been seeing in other Yamaha amps. I'm leaning towards replacing them both with 22µF/35v Nichicon ES.

Cheers,
James

EDIT: Mystery solved. My mistake. I mis-identified C-215 as C206. C206 and 211 both have Nichicon Muse 2.2µF/50v.
 
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Mark B said:
Very nice pictorial. If you have a turntable the CX-1 has an exceptional phono stage.
Click to expand...

I gave my TT and LP's to my son a few years ago. Lately I've been toying with the idea of buying another TT and borrowing an album or 2 from Son from time to time.

The main problem is where to put it. The only reasonable way that I can see space wise is to do as I had back in the day and hang it from the ceiling on a small platform. This has the added plus factor of completely isolating the TT from my Speakerlab 7's.

Wife has given me complete freedom concerning my audio habits over the years (yes, I am blessed) with the one exception that she can't stand seeing that hanging TT platform. Of course that may have to do with the optic of the C-141 pilot's window that I was using back then. She just didn't like that thing in the living room for some reason.

I'm thinking of finding a nice piece of white or black marble, I might get some WAF with that.

James
 
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Concerning the relays.

RY501, Reset PCB, P/N: AC DG12D1-0 (M) (Yamaha P/N: VD506000). A while back when I was working on my CX-600 Avionic gave me a link to Mouser for an Omron G5PA-1-H DC2 replacement relay. This is the same one that is used in the CX-1. As luck would have it I bought 2 of them back then and so I still have a new replacement for that one. Luck because they are no longer carried at Mouser, or anywhere else that I can find except for ebay at high prices.

http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW7qiUsndWlwIuBumBNf3k/E=
So in the interest of other people that might need a replacement relay I'll keep looking for a sub for that one.

RY101, 102 and 103. In the signal path of the 0db-Amp, Tape-3 and CD Buffer respectively. P/N RY12W-OH-K DC12v. Seems that Mouser has them in stock. In spite of all that I said about wanting to find some Finder relays I'm going to buy some of these.
http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Fujitsu/RY-12W-K/?qs=pc5iSNpyspZCkKjXcqIUqw==

With gold plated silver-palladium contacts perhaps they don't even need to be replaced but at only €2.82 each they will get replaced.

Cheers,
James
 
Just talked to the wife...she's going to talk to my mother in law about shipping the CX-1 over here from Japan very soon...can't wait to try it out with both my M-85 and B-2x!
 
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