GAP_FL
New Member
Not sure about the cartridge that is on the P-550 I picked up this afternoon. @reydelaplaya, can you tell if this is the original, and the replacement stylus from LP Gear would work OK?
Not sure about the cartridge that is on the P-550 I picked up this afternoon. @reydelaplaya, can you tell if this is the original, and the replacement stylus from LP Gear would work OK?
View attachment 1148179
There is no cantilever that I can see, but on removal of the headshell assembly, it is an MC-9! Excuse my ignorance, but with a missing cantilever, how does one go about retipping?
View attachment 1148301
I could be wrong but that looks like an MC-9 for which there is no replacement stylus...because it's a lomc cart.
View attachment 1148276
However it's a nice cartridge and worth retipping.
I’m glad you both caught this. Without being able to see what markings were underneath it was kinda tough to tell.There is no cantilever that I can see, but on removal of the headshell assembly, it is an MC-9! Excuse my ignorance, but with a missing cantilever, how does one go about retipping?
View attachment 1148301
Another reason to get a moving magnet cartridge is that most Phono-In on stereos are designed for this style of cartridge. Moving coil cartridges require a separate phono preamp which is an additional expense if you do not already have one.
The vintage Yamahas are excellent candidates for a retip. He could save up the dough, use a cheaper MM cart in the mean time and when he's ready to level up, get the MC-9 retipped and get a good MC capable phono pre. Don't toss that MC-9!
Uffff. I am looking to pair this with a Technics SU-V10x, which has front-panel MM/MC selection. So, the retip is in play at some point, when finances are in the flexibility range of "hundreds of dollars." Meanwhile, @reydelaplaya, your idea of shelving it in favor of an AT95E (or maybe an AT100E?) makes sense. No way I'm tossing the MC-9! I also have a PMA-520 and an A-88x that are MM/MC selectable. Is a retip something I need to seek locally, or is there an LP gear equivalent that I can ship to? South Florida is not exactly a hotbed of vintage audio.
You got that table for 30 bucks? As long as it's in good working order, you got a deal. According to Vinylengine, those were about $360 new back in the early 80s - that's like a couple million in today's deflated dollars! LOLHoly crap! Yes, I will get the MC-9 retipped. Comps on Ebay are close to three digits! I just became very happy with my $30 P-550 purchase.
lol...the P-550 was at a pawnshop, too. I just ordered an AT-95E from Amazon. With Prime delivery, I should be ripping some wax by Friday. I also hit the Google box and found a place called "The Needle Clinic" in Bellevue, WA that looks to be what the doctor ordered, so to speak. There are many re-tippers out there, and most look to be mostly interested in making sure they out-audiophile-adjective their competitors and that their kids drive a new Mercedes to college. The guys in Bellevue look like they might actually work for a living. While surfing, I also learned that replacing the cantilever can be far cheaper than re-tipping, in case you needed that little nugget for future reference. I'm clearly a re-cantilever candidate, but some folks might think that replacing the smallest part must be the cheapest...far from it.
Hey Guys,
I've just came across this topic when searching the web, looking for Yamaha P-350 related topics. I just bought an old, tatty and shabby P350 for just ~$35. I didn't expect much, but besides scratched cover, missing hinges and broken stylus it was in surprisingly good and promising condition. I've done a lot of maintenance, cleaned it all, lube up in all necessary places, painted the headshell, replaced the cartridge and stylus, mount new hinges, and polish the cover. It actually was given a brand new life, and now looks magnificent in my opinion. I of course can upload some pictures if you're interested, but there's one issue I am facing - tonearm lift. There's absolutely no shock protection, when I move the switch to "down" position the arm falls down and almost hits the surface with a bang. When i move it to "up" position it lifts so rapidly, that I hits the underside of the cover.
Have you faced a malfunction like that? I know that the lift usually uses the oil to absorb shocks, but I'm not sure which to use, and how to disassemble the lift.
I'd be more then grateful for any help, tips, and support.
Welcome to the AK turn table forum.
Check the service manual for access to " tone arm lift ".
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/yamaha/p-350.shtml
Try 300,000 wt. silicone oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Boom-Racing-BRDG300K-BADASS-Differential/dp/B01H9K2DHG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1467138940&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Traxxas++Differential+Oil,+300K+Weight
Hey everyone - I'm new to the forum. I just got into records - my friend gave me a yamaha p-450 that he found at the salvation army. I haven't changed anything on it...stylus and cartridge look ok...no noticeable sound degradation (but maybe I don't have a good baseline.) I did notice, however, that there is good amount of wobble, and it's coming from the platter mat/cover not sitting on the platter correctly....I looked into getting a new platter mat - 3/16" cork such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Toys-TC-3-thick-Audiophile/dp/B01GK55EPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1508931940&sr=1-2&keywords=turntable+toys+cork+3/16
However, I'm worried about changing the platter mat, since it doesn't look like there is a way to adjust the VTA on these things. Also....I don't know if 3/16" cork will be the exact same thickness as the original....Any thoughts or experiences doing something similar???????
ThanksYamaha P-(X)50 Series DIY Maintenance
Table Of Contents(Click on the topic below to be taken directly to the post.)
Tonearm
To Be Continued... Well, there's three and it's after one. Time for bed because tomorrow's another school day.
I have a Yamaha YP-D6, I run an Audio Technical cart. on mine. I'm not sure of the model, but I can let you know. I also have a Yamaha P550. Does yours have the typical problem where the dust cover hinges won't hold the cover up? Makes changing a record a pain in the ass. I haven't really wanted to try putting something in there to hold it in fear it could break the cover.
I have a Yamaha YP-D6, I run an Audio Technical cart. on mine. I'm not sure of the model, but I can let you know. I also have a Yamaha P550. Does yours have the typical problem where the dust cover hinges won't hold the cover up? Makes changing a record a pain in the ass. I haven't really wanted to try putting something in there to hold it in fear it could break the cover.
BakedTater, try spinning the platter by hand with the power off. If it spins freely and evenly, then the electronics may be the problem. But if it spins unevenly, the problem may be mechanical. I had a speed control problem on my P-550 ("wow" was the term) that was solved by overhauling the main spindle bearing for the platter. Cleaning, shimming for wear, and good grease did the trick. Good luck!I tried working the dial through its full range for a little while, then got it centered at the correct speed. When dialed to the desired speed, it plays well for a bit, then speeds up and slows erratically to the point of bending the pitch. If I set it just a tad fast it keeps a consistent speed. Any ideas?
The plastic on the hinges is a common fail point where the tension spring finally breaks through. There's a fix around here somewhere where holes are drilled in the plastic and a brad/fine finish nail is passed through creating a new support for the tail of the spring.
There are also several different, all-metal hinges that from different manufacturers that will fit. I know some model of JVC TTs fit because that's what I'm using on my own. Linn also fit, but they're kinda expensive.
Check the auction sites for TT hinges, and look for the correct shape. The only thing needed to be a perfect fit is a couple of felt shims.
JakeW, suggest you check that the balance on your tonearm is right. With the downforce at zero ounces, the arm should "float" when the lift is removed, if the main counterweight is set correctly. There is more expert advice cited in AK on tonearm fine-tuning, which I recommend, but if it's "crash-landing" I'd start with the basics. Good luck.Thank you for both, the welcome, and the response.
I've download and printed out all the available documentation for this turntable, I found at vinylengine.com, at the very beginning of my maintenance-restoration works, but when I look through the manual, I see no information about arm lift disassemble, and as I it really fragile I'm a bit afraid to do something in a haphazard way.
As I clearly see that we have a Yamaha P(x)50 master of arts - reydelaplaya, I though it would be good idea to ask first.