Yamaha YP-B2 Tone Arm
- Thread starter hakka26
- Start date
Yamaha B-2
registered user
My YP-71D has a small reservoir that needs to be refilled with dampening fluid. My guess is that the YP-B2 does, as well. PITA to get it into the reservior, though. On the YP-71D one has to remove the plastic insert on top of the lift platform (just below where it contacts the tonearm) and get the fluid in the small hole this uncovers. The Needle Doctor will sell you the dampening fluid. 1000X more than you need for about $10 plus shipping. Good luck.
Yamaha B-2
registered user
Can you post a pic?
hakka26
Super Member
Say, Alleluia!! After reading several posts and weeks of research, i realised that I needed some silicone dampening material. Unfortunately, it is sold in several different viscosities and is rather costly to experiment with. :worried:. Then, I remembered some 20 years ago I bought what is probably the most expensive x-acto knife ever made, for an art class. It has a floating swivel head. Called the local art supply stores and they have never seen one so parts are no longer available (of course :thumbsdn
. I knew it came with extra parts and after searching for several months found what I was looking for. Yes, it came with a very small vial of... 
silicone gel. Took the Yammie apart and applied some. Apparently it takes very little to work as in between it and screwing around with the spring it was now taking 20 minutes for the stylus to hit the record. No matter she is up and running. This model has a very nice rosewood look base so it is replacing the PL-115D as backup for the Thorens
. I knew it came with extra parts and after searching for several months found what I was looking for. Yes, it came with a very small vial of... silicone gel. Took the Yammie apart and applied some. Apparently it takes very little to work as in between it and screwing around with the spring it was now taking 20 minutes for the stylus to hit the record. No matter she is up and running. This model has a very nice rosewood look base so it is replacing the PL-115D as backup for the Thorens
VinylHanger
Navigaret ex ironia
A few suggestions on how to use those 20 minutes while you are waiting for tunes to start. Use the restroom, change your socks, pour a cold one, or warm a warm one, quicky with the old lady?
Yamaha B-2
registered user
As long as everyone ends up happy...... :thmbsp:hakka26 said:20 mins? That's a misfire-not a quickie!!
hakka26 said:Say, Alleluia!! After reading several posts and weeks of research, i realised that I needed some silicone dampening material. Unfortunately, it is sold in several different viscosities and is rather costly to experiment with. :worried:. Then, I remembered some 20 years ago I bought what is probably the most expensive x-acto knife ever made, for an art class. It has a floating swivel head. Called the local art supply stores and they have never seen one so parts are no longer available (of course :thumbsdn
I recently replaced my Pioneer 115D with the same Yammy you have because the rosewood base. I have the same problem with the arm dropping like a dead weight! Can you post pics or an explanation of what/where/how you fixed yours?
Thanks! :thmbsp:
hakka26
Super Member
Kerozene:
Okay. Let me see if I can be of help.
Get the silicone-there is a site that offers it but can't recall, needledoctor.com, maybe.
Do the usual prep:remove platter, lid etc., tie the tonearm down. Remove the bottom and balance unit on a side. The cueing post comes all the way through and rests on the cueing lever. The post has several notches around it and a spring. One of the notches, note which one, has a keeper clip that compresses the spring and locks the post in place. Remove the clip. Set TT on its base, move the tonearm out of the way and lift the cue post out of the hole. Clean shaft and hole, apply small amount of silicone to hole and reassemble. Test before putting bottom back on.
Hope this helps. Sorry, I don't know which viscosity to recommend. In fact, I would've gladly split the cost of the silicone before I found mine with others as it takes very little to work.
Okay. Let me see if I can be of help.
Get the silicone-there is a site that offers it but can't recall, needledoctor.com, maybe.
Do the usual prep:remove platter, lid etc., tie the tonearm down. Remove the bottom and balance unit on a side. The cueing post comes all the way through and rests on the cueing lever. The post has several notches around it and a spring. One of the notches, note which one, has a keeper clip that compresses the spring and locks the post in place. Remove the clip. Set TT on its base, move the tonearm out of the way and lift the cue post out of the hole. Clean shaft and hole, apply small amount of silicone to hole and reassemble. Test before putting bottom back on.
Hope this helps. Sorry, I don't know which viscosity to recommend. In fact, I would've gladly split the cost of the silicone before I found mine with others as it takes very little to work.
Thank you! This looks like a project for the upcoming weekend if I can find the silicon oil locally, otherwise the following one will be ok too.
Thanks again for the explanation, printed and saved for reference.
PS
If you ever need it, I've got a copy of the User Manual that Yamaha sent me last week after I sent them a nice email. They are great...
Thanks again for the explanation, printed and saved for reference.
PS
If you ever need it, I've got a copy of the User Manual that Yamaha sent me last week after I sent them a nice email. They are great...
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hakka26
Super Member
Actually it's more a paste/gel like sealant except non-drying. I asked at several electronics supply stores for "silicone dampening fluid" and none of the heard of it. Maybe, at an audio repair shop. I would appreciate a copy of the manual. Indicate if you would like a PM. It's not that difficult once you get the silicone-keep an eye on that clip. Good luck.
hakka26
Super Member
Before it disappears into the abyss that is my cabinet. Funny thing is I don't remember buying it which means it may be one of a couple I paid a dollar. It has a great AT cartridge.http://65.219.61.150/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40253&stc=1
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hakka26
Super Member
Actually, on my first attempts the arm wouldn't go down at all :thumbsdn:. I have had to reset the counterweight several times and the force is now circumspect. I think as the cue is worked the silicone spreads to a thinner film along the shaft instead of a donut at the top and the arm moves somewhat faster. Won't know for sure until it's hooked up and I see if the stylus races across several grooves before settling.
