OK, lets try another one. They're doing massive work on the Bayonne Bridge, to accommodate
post-Panamax container ships at Port Elizabeth.
Another angle:
I like the framing on this one a bit more than the other, but honestly they're both good.
It's a nice subject. What follows will be nit-picking, but here goes:
1. I'd use a polarizer. This is "hot" mid-day lighting - there's a lot of glare. The polarizer will get rid of that and help saturate the colors. There are specular highlights in the foliage and in the foaming water that are burned out - the polarizer will help a lot with that, too. Another option is expose less; you can dig a lot of detail out of an underexposed image, but you can't fix highlights that don't have any detail.
2. The horizon isn't level. You could fix that in pretty much any image editing software; I use Adobe Lightroom, which also allows for more complicated perspective control fixes. If you use your camera's rear LCD display, you can have it display a level horizon line.
I kinda like the fact this is taken at mid-day; "magic hour" light is a bit of a cliche.
Good stuff. Thanks.
I actually was using a polarizer, but wondering if the impact was lost in over-exposure. I had the aperture nearly closed and used a longer shutter speed to get the water effect.
A few comments:Second try, did a bit better. Faster shutter spreed.
Striking geometry, plus lots of detail, and gorgeous color - what's not to like?Took a pontoon boat ride through NJ's Hackensack Meadowlands this afternoon:
Striking geometry, plus lots of detail, and gorgeous color - what's not to like?
{Edit: will you tell us how much post processing, cropping, etc. you did?}
...I use Adobe Lightroom and shoot raw...
...Used VSCO's Kodacolor Gold 100 preset. (It's part of their free sample pack, and well worth downloading).
...This sounds like a lot, but probably took five minutes, maybe less.
...what I'm describing above is just a digital version of what Ansel Adams and others did with analog's "Zone System."
I guessed there was quite a bit of tonal adjustment. The important thing is that it doesn't give itself away as obviously manipulated.
Thanks for the tip on VSCO - will have to try it. Do you ever try the "Clarity" slider to pull out more apparent detail while dodging/burning/adjusting levels a bit less?
This book:
https://www.amazon.com/Ansel-Adams-...70239062&sr=1-2&keywords=ansel+adams+in+color
talks about Ansel Adams' color work and how he was a decade or two too early to get the adjustment capability he wanted in color photography. He felt that the electronic processing capability then available only for major magazine printing looked promising for the future.
The clarity slider, like the new "dehaze" slider has to be used with care
... and I used to own an automated Cibachrome processing machine.
I use a Plustek OpticFilm 7600i for 35mm, Epson Perfection 4490 Photo for everything else. Fortunately the Epson software/drivers work fine with Windows 10. The Plustek was another story. I am using Vuescan to drive it.