Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

You guys are bringing back some real nice memories for me, i forgot about the shit we used to do in highschool. Back in the early 70s we were putting 327s in Vegas and 302s in Mavericks. I forgot what it was like to be in a car that would do wheelies, Im lucky to still be alive.
 
Naw, man... a Ford 289 or 302. Have you no sense of history? :D

BTW: One of my shop teachers in high school had a Tiger, with a warmed-over 302 in it (GT40 heads, that sort of thing)... but with full mufflers, and such. Used to love see him play the "sleeper" routine on all the kids with their hopped-up Chevelles and Mustangs. Somehow, he got that thing to hook up... and with about 320hp in 2300lbs... it would definitely SCOOT!

Regards,
Gordon.

289??....I agree, but if you've tried to buy parts for them lately, you'd see that they are 1/3 higher cost. You can get soooo many good parts for the 283/327/350 block on CL for cheap cheap.
 
289??....I agree, but if you've tried to buy parts for them lately, you'd see that they are 1/3 higher cost. You can get soooo many good parts for the 283/327/350 block on CL for cheap cheap.

Yeah, but you don't have to cut the fenderwells to get a 302 Ford in there. It's about 2" narrower or so. Also, it's about 70lbs lighter... that makes a difference!

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Yeah, but you don't have to cut the fenderwells to get a 302 Ford in there. It's about 2" narrower or so. Also, it's about 70lbs lighter... that makes a difference!

Regards,
Gordon.


That is true. Have you seen this type of mod on the Mazda Miada? It makes for a VERY COOL roadster. Side pipes and all. There is also a company that makes front and back clips that really dolls it up.
 
Zilch, thanks for joining and replying over @ AVS....your summary of Geddes findings is very important to my thread!!

I now have the PH612, PH812 and PE 12" wavguides in house. Im almost ready to start my project. I have lots of different tests to perform over the next couple of months. I want to see differences between the waveguides and I want to also mod the PE12" waveguide cutting the thread off it and making it a bolt version so that I can also test the difference between "bolt-on" and "threaded" compression drivers.

Its going to be a slow project because I have family and other projects on the go at the same time and I need to figure out what software is the best for measuring off axis and THD.



here is my thread searching/learning about waveguides. That thread will include measurements at some point.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1140175

Thank to all the Econo-waveguide experts that have giving me a new project to work on over the summer :D
 
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Yup, 42.6 Kbps right now, it says. Downloadable videos, I just let 'em load in the background.

Streamers ain't so easy, and this one is relatively hi-res, so I had to watch it piecemeal. Online today was the first I'd seen it.

Chris produced the video himself: I wasn't even there, and it was not scripted. We built the Advents in the background the night before as rehersal, is all.

[There may be a follow-up in which y'all'll get to see him wielding the SawZall.... :thmbsp: ]

I would think you, of all people, would have warp-drive bandwidth -- like a massive conduit of fiber optic data lines running into your house.

:D
 
I would think you, of all people, would have warp-drive bandwidth -- like a massive conduit of fiber optic data lines running into your house.

:D

Broadband is both a blessing and a hazard. It's great to be able to download a service manual in 20 seconds but some days I find myself watching every YouTube video ever posted of kittens playing with puppies or something like that. Not really a time saver under those circumstances.
 
Broadband is both a blessing and a hazard. It's great to be able to download a service manual in 20 seconds but some days I find myself watching every YouTube video ever posted of kittens playing with puppies or something like that. Not really a time saver under those circumstances.

Well, that could be construed as attention deficit, and is no fault of the technology. :D
 
Well, that could be construed as attention deficit, and is no fault of the technology. :D

A diagnosis not necessarily borne out by other symptoms.

Note that the Wired article has a WIKI discussion section. Tubino and I have contributed to it. Others registered with Wired (free) can edit and add to the discussion. Might be useful for people to share their experiences.
 
Saturday was fabrication day for the 1st set of xovers, using the excellent prefab board. A couple of small points, the provided instructions do not suggest nesting L1 on the same double-sticky foam strip as the caps before zip-tieing, I do. Second, the small hardware to mount L2 wasn't locally available so I used 1 minuit fast set epoxy from ACE hardware, I use this stuff a lot for things like this. While working time may be a bit longer the handling time comes within 30 min, overnight setting suggested before stressing the bond. I also suggest using naphtha (lighter fluid) to pre-clean/degrease the material to be bonded before using epoxies on non-porous substances.
I will try this arrangement on both the AR-6 and the Pioneer CS-R300, this set will eventually go into the ARs and the next into the Pioneers using the CS-300's 0.6 mH choke and L-pad. I will have to order a replacement Dayton film 10uF impedance comp cap for the original e'lytic if I use that portion.
 
Yes, I use foam tape under the 0.6 mH air core inductor; I cut the label to just over the ID size and stick it on first for ID. See the video and here:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2636636#post2636636

Note: I orient the leads topside so as not to clamp the central one against the windings and ultimately have a short.

I've done enough versions of E'Wave to know that the spec'd 1.5 mH I-Core may not be the optimum value for all woofers, so I'd recommend against mounting it permanently with epoxy. Use the same foam tape and cable tie approach if you can't find #4-40 hardware locally. Radio Shack maybe has it, though I haven't checked. Indignia builders confront the same issue. #6 hardware will also work using short screws if you enlarge the mounting holes and install the nuts on the solder side of the board.
 
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My local ACE Hdw stocks a wide variety of threaded fasteners including #4 in various lengths. When I've needed something special like stainless steel screws in quantity they've had it ordered in in a few days at reasonable cost.
 
Pair of high-efficiency variant E'Wave crossovers set up for conversion to biamp operation later:

attachment.php

Solder lugs on binding posts (they come with,) shown connecting the two filter sections. Use them with another pair of inputs instead, and each section may be driven separately.... :yes:


Hello everyone,

I think those crossovers where buildt by Zylch for me. Never got around thanking him openly on the forum, but it was fast communication, great build quality and very positive experience dealing with him. Thanks Zilch!

I finally got around hooking them up to my Fostex for a couple of weeks and they sounded pretty darn good.
Today couldn't wait no more and had to try them with my GPA 414-8c. this is such a messy setup rigth now, but I am having a blast with it, very dynamic and with lots of "presence".
As soon as the family goes in vacation and leaves me alone for a couple of days I'll build a pair of cabs for this bad boys.

this is one of the best audio threads ever!
 

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