Rockwell/delta unisaw, anyone have one and restore it?
 

I just picked one up at auction for a song.
Model 34-450.
The motor is a 1.5 horse single phase dual power one (110/220v)
I think I should change the arbor bearings and the belts.
The arbor shaft was seized, but freed up with penetrating spray.
It is noisy when spun by hand.

The machine is in pretty good shape, the top is clean and flat.
It does look like someone has done electric modifications as it doesn't have a magnetic switch, nor a starter box.
It has a plastic box and a light switch for the on/off.

Anyone know a good cheap source for bearings for the arbor?

I got it missing its fence but the rails are there and in good shape.
anyone have any suggestions for a decent aftermarket fence system?

When you get the bearings out, take to a local industrial supply shop. They can usually get bearings like this for less than buying parts through manufacturer. A mag-start switch is a good idea, and are available through places like Grainger.

As far as fences go, I love the Biesemeyer I have, and would get this or a clone again. My uncle swears by the Unifence on his Unisaw.

Thanks,

The beisemeyer is beyond my price range right now, and limited availability in canada.

I tried looking for a delta t2 fence, but no suppliers here for those either.

I have Rockwell-Delta Contractors Special and needed a new fence a while back. I shopped around for the Delta T2 but none were available close to me. I stopped into the local Rockler and they had an Accusquare in the clearance section for a very low price. It's not a Biesemeyer but serves me pretty well. The extruded aluminum fence part aligns very well with the rail system. If anything, I wish they had given more consideration to the tail locking part of it. I think it's abetter product than the T2.
I thought they might be on your side of the border but their contact information lists Lewiston, NY. Only picture I could find, ATM:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b7...IMG_0006-1.jpg


These guys say they have the bearings in stock but I would give them a call before ordering. If the bearings aren't too far gone they may be salvagable with extraordinary cleaning and repacking. If it was me, I'd remove them and take to a friend with an ultrasonic parts cleaner, repack, and see if the saw runs out correctly, it would be worth my time versus buying new ones, immediately.

That looks suspiciously like the old Beaver saw, I believe Rockwll bought them out. I have one and if memory serves they take an SKF6502 bearing (2). I did mine years ago, still running fine but it is an 8" tilt arbour, not 10"

Have you considered purchasing through Amazon.com? I see that you are in Montreal, and do not know their shipping policy, but thought to throw this out for consideration.

Why go to all the effort to remove the arbor to be able to clean the sealed bearings, and then re-align all after re-installation, only to have to do it again if the bearings are still nfg? To me, it's time ahead to just replace them when the arbor is out. They can't be that expensive. Again, once you have the bearing number, rather than just the Delta part number, any industrial supply should be able to source these easily. In Seattle the place to go would be Bearings, Inc or some such. Montreal should have some place similar to this.

Because I am such a cheap SOB? That, and I get fufillment out of fixing things. I'd rather own something that I repaired and is still running after years than replacing it with something new.:sigh:

Your point is well taken, though, there is a time and place to just order the new bearings and be done with it. If the saw was stored outside or in a less than ideal environment, the consequent pitting is not going to be conquered. I can usually tell if the bearing is going to be recoverable by feel, not always, but most of the time. As to price, I think the OP is going to be looking at $20-$40 X 2 for decent bearings, worth the money, IMO.

SKF used to have its store on Beaver Hall Hill, at least that is where I got the bearings for my saw.

I have a unisaw, maybe even the same model you have.

I have a delta T2, so much better than that crappy stock fence. I sold my oem fence for 70 bucks locally. I bought mine through tptools.com

What's the mag start switch for? Mine just has the lightswitch looking deal on the front.

yup, Canadian bearings co. picked up 2 sealed skf 6203 bearings today for 20$.
made some jigs out of thick solid birch so I could use my vice to press fit.

as far as I know the mag start is just safer, but not necessary.
I'm going to pull the light switch and replace it with this

I got the arbor done today, lapped the face too, and got all the gearing and screws cleaned up.
mechanically this thing is almost like new.

looking at this for a fence. its either that or a used unifence for 200$ on CL.

The mag switches I've used have a thermal overload in them that helps prevent some stress on the motor - though many motors also have thermal protect systems. Also, the switches have been relay operated, so if the power goes out, then the switch goes to OFF. Zero chance of the saw coming back on unless you push the button again. This is a huge safety feature.

The other reason for a mag switch is that some equipment with bigger motors draws so much current at start that the smaller switches won't carry it. Many mags are rated for higher current.

I get that, I'm the same way. I just don't like to do some things twice if I can avoid it, and aligning the arbor to the table/trunnion of a tablesaw is one of those things. Also, these bearings are likely sealed because of all the dust. Too big a p.i.a.for me if they are already suspect.

I don't think you could go too far wrong with either of them. The only real drawback to me is stock is always rubbing against the aluminum, which may or may not be anodized, and can leave marks. Pretty minor quibble. The most important things are being easy to set, locking solidly in place, and once adjusted to parallel to the blade must hold this adjustment.

With the T-track on that fence, it's pretty easy to add a sacrificial surface like EPDM or straight hardwood. Too bad the fence is going to cost more than the saw (assumption on my part) but having a good fence is critical for accuracy.
I think you're going to be real happy with how that saw works, these older saws have a lot of cast iron and heavy steel so stability and accuracy is very good. If you know a woodworker that has a setup gauge system and is willing to lend it out, you'll be able to dial it in so that everything is aligned. Good luck with the Unisaw!