Pioneer CT-F1000 Recap
I had a PM request for my CT-F1000 recap list because of this thread:
To hopefully benefit everyone, I will include it here. I do my parts lists in Excel with some fancy functions to convert Pioneer codes to meaningful descriptions and create BOM lists. Since we can't attach Excel spreadsheets, I saved it as a PDF.
Standard disclaimer: The attached parts list represents a snapshot in time. It's the right list for my unit, yours may be slightly different. Mouser part numbers change and they run out of stock so you may need to make some substitutions. The list should also be inspected by one of the AK gurus (you know who you are) to ensure it meets with their approval. The mods are more than welcome to publish it in the AK recap database if approved by one of the AK gurus.
Please also consult this thread by "The Master" pustelniakr.
This project is NOT for beginners!
Now that you have completed your recap, any helpful hints etc that you might add to the information in Mr Pustelniakr's thread?
Thanks for the recap list!
That is great info, and a neat way to reference the various cap designations. Thanks for sharing it.
- Watch for a couple of mistakes in the service manual.
- Faderlube the controls while you have the volume board out.
- Remember that in the service manual, Pioneer will indicate the board number of a specific board BUT they don't clearly indicate how many of that particular board there are unless you look at the explosion diagrams. For example, in the CT-F1000, there are 4 identical boards for Dolby. If you are creating a recap list from scratch, you need 4 of each cap listed in the service manual parts list for that board.
- The service manual doesn't include the Capstan Motor Controller Assembly which has 2 Electrolytic caps on it.
- If you haven't replaced the belts, do it while you have everything open.
- A proper temperature controlled soldering and desoldering station REALLY HELPS.
- As always, be gentle on the wire wraps. If I was able to recap this beast with no broken wires then so can you.
- Once you remove the front panel, tape the meters in place with masking tape to keep them from flopping around and getting scratched as you move the unit around.
- Keep all of your knobs, screws , felt washers etc in a dish so you don't loose any.
- Use side cutters with the little clamp that grabs onto the cutoff part (or hold onto EVERY lead you trim off) so you don't end up with a cap lead floating around inside somewhere looking for an opportunity to short something out.
- Get a small breadboard. Use pieces of wire to plug the leads of your meter into 2 adjacent traces. Set your meter to check capacitance. For EVERY cap you replace, check the capacitance on the replacement simply by plugging it into the appropriate spot on the breadboard. It's quick and makes sure you don't end up using a faulty or misread cap. I also check the values of the ones I remove 'cause I'm fussy.
- Keep your parts list and layout diagram close by. Use a highlighter to mark every one you replace.
- Verify the polarity marking of EVERY cap you remove just in case Pioneer silkscreened the + on the wrong lead.
If I think of any more, I'll add them here.
Ok, got my Mouser order today. FINALLY all done, tested and working great.
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:55 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
ęCopyright 2002-2014 AudioKarma.org, All rights reserved.