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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

E-Waves........

SWR,
COOL!, My only question, HOW DO THEY SOUND?....We are waiting to
hear your review!......Am waiting on another batch of parts, not very
patiently,.......Cheers, T:thmbsp:
 
Zilch,

Very Fast Service, the horns arrive today, looks good.
Will give you some feedback once I done some testing with the D220Ti which should arrive next week.

some work ahead of me. Cheers.
 
SWR,
COOL!, My only question, HOW DO THEY SOUND?....We are waiting to
hear your review!......Am waiting on another batch of parts, not very
patiently,.......Cheers, T:thmbsp:

Sounds like it will not be long before you hear your own set. With a little dialing in, they sound very nice and you will be pleased, very pleased indeed.:yes:

So skywaverider, how do they sound?:D

Russellc
 
Zilch,

Very Fast Service, the horns arrive today, looks good.
Cool. I'm pleased they arrived timely and safely. :thmbsp:

Just to be sure, you know not to be tempted to hook up and run the compression drivers without a highpass filter, I presume.... :yes:
 
I have DCX2496 used as digital filter, I would be able to get 1st impression fairly soon.

Will try to set-up the response to be flat on axis first, fortunately I have measuring instruments to do that.

will keep you inform, I can compare it against B&C DE250 and RCF H100 horn, this combo is very good and cheap as well, about $260 a pair excl postage.
 
I’ve only got one speaker running correctly right now, but the one that is working sounds great. I will let you know more once I figure out what I screwed up or what component is out of whack in the other crossover.

The low end is very big for my small apartment. I will likely raise them significantly.

I’d say the cabinet is 70-80% filled with fiberglass.

I already know the imaging will be great because I use the waveguides in my active system.

When I get two going, I’ll post my RTAs.
:tresbon::thmbsp:
 
I have DCX2496 used as digital filter, I would be able to get 1st impression fairly soon.
When running active, it's always a good safety measure to put a blocking capacitor in series with the compression driver to supress any system turn-on/turn-off thumps or DC from the amp, and operator errors.

33uF should work.

Will try to set-up the response to be flat on axis first, fortunately I have measuring instruments to do that.
Curve junkies EVERYWHERE await your results and findings.

OH, and PICS, of course. AKers always want plenteous good pics.... ;)
 
When running active, it's always a good safety measure to put a blocking capacitor in series with the compression driver to supress any system turn-on/turn-off thumps or DC from the amp, and operator errors.

33uF should work.

Curve junkies EVERYWHERE await your results and findings.

OH, and PICS, of course. AKers always want plenteous good pics.... ;)

Speaking about that 33 uf cap got me curious about another similar post of yours about active crossover use. I can not find the thread (not even sure of which forum! maybe LHF), but it was refering to a note in some JBL printing, warning to use a certain size resistor across the driver if you are using tube, or other amps with output transformers along with active crossovers......do you recall what all this was about? Most of my amps are tube (except the 6230) and am planning a purchase of cx 3400, so I am interested if you recall?

Thanks for any help,
Russellc
 
The discussion was in the thread where we brought Spaceman up to speed with his CX3400 purchase. Advanced Search will likely bring up the thread.

I don't recall the resistor specifically, since I rarely use tubes, but the references were to this JBL active crossover manual:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5235 manual.pdf

Capacitor at Section 3-2 and resistor at 3-4.

There are earlier versions which may contain additional info:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5233_5234.pdf

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5234A manual.pdf

All include sections on subjective determination of proper phase connections and other good stuff.

[This is what speakergeeks consider "Fun," folks.... :p: ]
 
The discussion was in the thread where we brought Spaceman up to speed with his CX3400 purchase. Advanced Search will likely bring up the thread.

I don't recall the resistor specifically, since I rarely use tubes, but the references were to this JBL active crossover manual:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5235 manual.pdf

Capacitor at Section 3-2 and resistor at 3-4.

There are earlier versions which may contain additional info:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5233_5234.pdf

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Vintage JBL-UREI Electronics/JBL-5234A manual.pdf

All include sections on subjective determination of proper phase connections and other good stuff.

[This is what speakergeeks consider "Fun," folks.... :p: ]

Thanks, Zilch, I'll start reading. Sounded fairly important, and I have never heard anyone else talking about that.

Thanks again,
Russellc
 
Take a look

I measured at 1 meter and nearfield, both monitors. Yesterday’s readings (first image) were done with the monitors on low tilt back stands, 5.5” front, 4” rear.

Both woofers looked consistent to me, nearfield.

The reverse phase is the connection I will go with.

Noting the problem in the right monitor, I made more measurements today.

This time I raised the monitor height, no tilt, to 121 cm, on axis with waveguide. These are shown in the second image.

In these you see I swapped the DT220Ti drivers, and the RTAs seem to say the hi pass in the crossover is OK, and that there’s a difference in the drivers themselves.

I also measured above and below vertical on axis to see if I can nail down any time domain problem in the orientation of the drivers. It appears that flatter response occurs above on axis vertical. I played with a lot of points in between, but could not get it completely flat and ran out of time.

Since raising the mic puts the HF closer, to a point, I assume moving the horn forward would have the same effect, or the woofer rearward. (Am I right?) I was doing this early on when I had the waveguide on top of the cabinet. (I was able to get it flatter by moving the horn forward.)
 

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1) You've got bass to die for, from the nearfield measurements, down 10 dB at 25 Hz or below. That's what the response would be 2-Pi, i.e., one boundary, wall or floor, for example.

2) Inverse phase would appear to be correct.

3) In detail, there are differences between the two drivers, I agree.

4) The notch appearing at 2.5 kHz is likely to be time alignment.

5) Wayne Parham can probably identify what's going on with that. Send him a PM asking that he have a look for us.

6) Yes, horn forward or woofer back. Try mounting the woofer on the rear of the baffle as an experiment.

7) 121 cm. seems exterme. Lower them down and listen above axis, maybe.

8) The hump at 10 kHz may be mic-related. Did you ever resolve this issue? See below. In the past, we've had some difficulty replicating each other's HF measurements.

9) Overall, I'm seeing +/- 2.5 dB and calling it, "Good."

10) You can probably improve it further by optimizing the woofer lowpass filter, as we've discussed. :thmbsp:
 

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1) You've got bass to die for, from the nearfield measurements, down 10 dB at 25 Hz or below. That's what the response would be 2-Pi, i.e., one boundary, wall or floor, for example.

2) Inverse phase would appear to be correct.

3) In detail, there are differences between the two drivers, I agree.

4) The notch appearing at 2.5 kHz is likely to be time alignment.

5) Wayne Parham can probably identify what's going on with that. Send him a PM asking that he have a look for us.

6) Yes, horn forward or woofer back. Try mounting the woofer on the rear of the baffle as an experiment.

7) 121 cm. seems exterme. Lower them down and listen above axis, maybe.

8) The hump at 10 kHz may be mic-related. Did you ever resolve this issue? See below. In the past, we've had some difficulty replicating each other's HF measurements.

9) Overall, I'm seeing +/- 2.5 dB and calling it, "Good."

10) You can probably improve it further by optimizing the woofer lowpass filter, as we've discussed. :thmbsp:

I have got to get the DEQ 2496, this driving me nuts.:screwy: Is the behringer mic up to the task, or are you guys using something preferable?



Russellc
 
1) 3) In detail, there are differences between the two drivers, I agree.

This is my second set of drivers plus one diaphragm. I may have run out of patience hoping for a good Selenium pair. It’s a shame because I do like the high end of the “good one” very much.

The Right driver, maybe both, will go back. The differences between the two are not only visible in RTA, but easily audible. I’m reconsidering my options which includes abandoning this driver.

1)4) The notch appearing at 2.5 kHz is likely to be time alignment.

5) Wayne Parham can probably identify what's going on with that. Send him a PM asking that he have a look for us.

6) Yes, horn forward or woofer back. Try mounting the woofer on the rear of the baffle as an experiment.

Yes, well going back in this thread I posted a photo showing the horn forward, from memory, about 2 inches.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1861616&postcount=260
The posted RTA shows the notch diminished or gone.
attachment.php

Here’s the horn forward:
attachment.php

I will set the woofer back behind the baffle and see what that does.

I’ll try contacting Wayne Parham after I figure out what I intend to do, i.e., the final driver compliment.

1)8) The hump at 10 kHz may be mic-related. Did you ever resolve this issue? In the past, we've had some difficulty replicating each other's HF measurements.

There’s nothing to resolve. I have only one “measurement” mic. I made that comparison with a borrowed one because I suspected that a cheap Chinese made electret condenser is not likely to be consistent, unit to unit, in FR. I showed that at least 2 were somewhat close. Not good enough for me, but I have no choice. I do not know which one represents reality. So I have to go with the one I own. It’s unlikely I will be able to buy a real measurement mic any time soon.

I don’t know what you use, is it a B&K? Maybe I can send you mine and you could run a “quick” comparo.

10) You can probably improve it further by optimizing the woofer lowpass filter, as we've discussed. :thmbsp:

Does the optimization include the Zobel? Or are you saying move the low pass higher, to fill in the hole in the x-over region? We’ve already moved it up, and it didn’t seem to address the issue. Please point me in the right direction here.

Thanks.
 
I use the Behringer mic with DEQ2496, and the standard Clio mic with Clio. Clio has the facility to read a mic calibration file; it costs ~50 to have a standardization curve generated for a particular mic.

While I have never had my mics checked, the two systems measure essentially the same, meaning they give essentially the same result measuring the same devices under the same conditions. In detail, the pink noise generated by each system seems to differ.

Jackgiff and I have compared results on several occasions, sometimes using the same drivers and waveguides, and we get similar results with our Behringer systems. With Clio, I seem to obtain results on par with those of other researchers.

Scroll down for ECM 8000 here:

http://diylautsprecher.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=35

Presumably, Behringer knows the performance of their microphones, statistically, and builds a compensation curve into the UltraCurve Pro. Some samples will always fall at the extremes of the normal distribution. I suspect your mic is overstating the response in the region of 10 kHz, as is commonly reported with them in DITaudio threads. I would not be concerned about the magnitude you show, if that is the case.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120763

Selenium driver variability as I measured it, based upon four samples:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1689621#post1689621

I suggest you rotate the diaphragm to each of the four available locations. If that doesn't "fix" it, return the one you find to be substandard to Parts Express for exchange. Alternatively, order another pair, measure, and select a matched pair from among the four. Their return policy is quite liberal, and I suspect they will desire that you be satisfied with the frequency response.... :yes:
 
Summa Waveguide

Hi,

Fellow Econowaveguide users,

Now that the Summa waveguide for purchase, refer to site below,
http://www.gedlee.com/Summa.htm

what do you guys think of the pricing?

ie Baffle, waveguide, foam insert, mounting plate, drawings: $200, each I assume.

Is the price reasonable?
 
Well, it's 20 times the cost of the EconoWaveguide and twice that of the best JBL PT waveguides, but half the price of the TOTL JBL consumer horns I have here.

The price is probably fair considering the effort he has in them. We're not talking mass production here.... :yes:
 
Coherent summing issues

I'm not sure what drivers you guys are using but some JBL drivers are wired so that positive voltage applied to the black terminal gives positive pressure. Here are notes on JBL drivers that will help you identify how to wire them:

Also, remember that when the diaphragm in a compression driver moves away from the magnet, this causes negative pressure at the throat. Some manufacturers label the red terminal positive for positive pressure, others for "forward" movement, i.e. away from the magnet, which causes negative pressure at the throat.

The confusion lies in the fact that the magnet and diaphragm are mounted "backwards", and the sound passes through the center of the magnet, which forms the throat of the driver. This is just something you have to keep track of on an individual basis, since some manufacturers do it one way, others do it the opposite, and some manufacturers do it differently from one model to the next.

The notch shown on the measurements made by Skywave Rider suggest the compression driver is probably wired so that positive voltage causes positive diaphragm motion, not positive pressure. Could be the woofer is wired "backwards" but I'll bet it's the compression driver. One or the other is backwards, anyway. So when reversing the connections, you have actually phased them properly.

There is another possibility, and that is you may have crossovers that modify phase in such a way to cause destructive interference. The classic case is adjacent second-order networks, one moves phase forward 90 degrees and the other moves phase back 90 degrees so at frequencies very near the crossover point, there is nearly full cancellation. Most people reverse connect one of the drivers to counter this situation.

The thing is, the whole idea of the system you're doing is to make off-axis response smooth in addition to having good response on-axis. So you have a higher standard to achieve than just getting summing right on-axis. Because of this, you want to try and make sure you cross your t's and dot your i's where coherency is concerned.

No loudspeaker system with more than one driver on a baffle can be coherent at all locations and at all frequencies. Somewhere, there is going to be destructive interference. But the idea is to place your nulls outside the coverage angle. A clever designer makes it impossible for nulls to form within the wall angle of his horn, or at least uses them to abbreviate the cutoff at the edge of the pattern. This is a good place to put the link to the post about vertical null angles:

That's why I like using asymmetrical horn flares in a system like this. They allow the relatively wide 90 degree horizontal angle to match the collapsing directivity of the midwoofer. And the narrow vertical angle matches the null angle from vertical spacing of the drivers. If you space everything right, the nulls form just outside the vertical coverage angle of the tweeter horn. In the crossover region, the nulls set the edge of the vertical pattern and at higher frequencies, the tweeter horn's wall angle maintains the relatively tight vertical control. Axisymmetrical horns won't do this, instead, the vertical pattern will widen back up above the crossover band.

So the next thing to do is learn where the acoustic centers are in the Z axis, the acoustic distance. This is what sets the vertical centerline, which biases the arc of coherent summing in the vertical plane. The nulls that form above and below this centerline are found at angles determined by the distance between drivers and the frequencies where they are both used. As we saw earlier in this thread, it's common to space the drivers so the arc is about 40-50 degrees wide in the crossover region, usually around 1kHz - 1.5kHz or so.

Setting the centerline for the vertical pattern is a function of driver position on the baffle and crossover slopes. The acoustic position of the compression driver is set back because of horn length, but the woofer is also set back a few inches from the baffle because of the shape of the cone. There are differences in the electrical and mechanical characteristics and also in the acoustic loading. The woofer is a direct radiator with higher inductance, the tweeter is horn loaded and has less inductance.

Knowing the acoustic position is important and difficult, but fortunately, if you crossover at 1kHz or so, wavelength is over a foot long. That means you have a range of about six inches where interaction between drivers causes positive summing and about six inches where it causes cancellation. Actually, I should say six inches where summing "tends towards" positive or negative reinforcement; The fact is, at this frequency range you won't see the notch from negative reinforcement until you're within about a two inches forward or back of the position that causes path length to be 180 degrees out of phase. But this, alone, will tell you a lot.

If you have a good measurement system that allows impulse testing, super. You have it easy, life is good. You can measure the drivers and see the flight time delay for each one. That will tell you everything you need to know and crossover design becomes a piece of cake. Well, maybe not completely effortless because you still have some work finding the best slopes to use to get summing right off-axis as well as straight on. But being able to see what you're working with makes things a LOT easier.

Even if you just have an RTA, you still have some visibility. You'll have to measure outdoors to make sure what you're seeing isn't a reflection. If you wire up direct and measure straight on axis, then reverse polarity to one driver and see a notch, then you know the drivers are aligned. This also is true if a symmetrical crossover is used. If you don't notice a clear notch when reverse connecting the drivers, then you can move a driver forward or backward a few inches to find the notch. Start first by setting the notch straight on axis, even if it means moving the tweeter forward or back from being flush with the baffle.

This is the Altec alignment method, and it works pretty well. You can't know if you're in phase or some multiple of 360 degrees out of phase, but since we're working with a foot long wavelength, you can rule out multi-cycle shifts by physical alignment. You may (will) have some offset due to electro-mechanico-acoustic differences, but they won't create a foot long offset. So as long as you have the physical alignment close in a system like this, you have enough to learn where the center of your arc is.

Once you know the acoustic source positions, you know what you're dealing with. If the tweeter has to be moved forward a couple inches for alignment, then moving it back flush to the baffle would shift the vertical centerline upward. You might use asymmetrical slopes or staggered crossover points to shift it back. Higher orders cause more delay, and can be used provide apparent offset. Staggered crossover points change the phase between drivers too, and can be used to shift the null angles.

This is where measurement equipment really helps, because you can make adjustments and optimize the design much easier. The Smith and Larson WTPro system is excellent for this, because it allows you to describe a crossover circuit using Spice models, and measure the system with a digital representation of the filter functions described by the Spice model.
 
Zilch/JGiff....question

Hi,
Assuming I understood a fraction of what W.Parnham wrote/diagrammed,
I'm going to have to make adjustments in position of my woofer/hf driver,
as they do not line up nicely/neatly, per his diagram....My woofer sits
between 1"-2" more shallow, than the hf driver, measuring a center line
through the magnet positions,....So, my question is, Is there a preferred
recomend regarding this? IF, it is better to mount the woofer on the inside
of the front baffle, then I've got a lot more cutting to do,....Or moving the
waveguide horn forward, will eliminate a screen/cover, any thoughts?.......
Thanks for your time, T
 
Thanks!

Wayne,
Thanks for your informative post.

I have asked a friend to help me with the Linkwitz formula math, which I am not capable of solo.

However, extrapolating from the AES graphic, though It seems counterintuitive, increasing the center to center spacing narrows the arc between nulls (given the same crossover point.) I hope I’ve determined that correctly.

I was wondering if you think basic RTA capability could be used to determine vertical off axis response nulls? For example, after using the Altec method to determine correct horn fore/aft alignment, could I move my mic up or down to the assumed null point and check for a notch or actually a falloff at the crossover frequency? If this is visible and reliable, driver center to center spacing could be fine tuned in this manner, checking for symmetry both above and below at null axis positions.

For all these measurements I assume the microphone should reference the center point between the two drivers, not the horn center, as the axis of measurement.

Another assumption I hold: As the listener moves away from the centerline of maximum phase reinforcement vertically between drivers, phase cancellation increases progressively to a maximum at the null. Beyond that, reinforcement may begin if the null has not been properly aligned with the end of the dispersion pattern at crossover frequency. So it’s important to know what the dispersion really is at crossover, and have a midwoofer which is very close in this characteristic.

If I got that right, I've had an epiphany.
If not, please let me know.
:)

Thank you.
 
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