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Minimus 7 Loudspeakers - Measurements

Tweeter model SD 60 impedance does not go through zero phase at resonance, so WT2 won't call it "Fs" and calculate T/S parameters. Perhaps CLIO will, but I'll have to study up how to do T/S with it. Re = 7.3278 Ohms:

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Woofer model 1218 free-air impedance and Q, Fs T/S parameters:

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You da man, Z. Please note that for the values below I used the XO3 (Harristech) estimator and ballparked values from the tweeter impedance curve to get a working version of T/S params for it. I guessed Fs at 2200Hz and Zmax at 11 ohms. The program came up with Qms of 5.989, Qes of 11.96, and Qts of 3.991. If you get CLIO to spit out real numbers let me know and I'll correct for it.

Now, try this out and see what you think...
3rd order Butterworth at 5500Hz on the tweeter, C1=2.7uF, C2=8.2uF, and L1=.15mH.
2nd order Butterworth at 2k on the woofer C3=8.2uF and L2=.7mH

edit: dorking around for a lower/cheaper parts count...
3rd order on tweeter 2.2uF, 7.5uF, .15mH
1st order on woofer .5mH
cuts a few bucks out and while not quite as pretty, it's not too bad (2nd graph)

Ray
 

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There goes my weekend! :banana:

[I'm trudging piecemeal through the known mods first here, though.... :yes: ]

Edit: Recap does essentially nothing. Stock NPE cap was 4.88 uF, kit cap is 4.68 uF (Cyn).

Kit (Blk) partially mitigates the 8 kHz peak with its lowpass and Zobel, and reduces the driver interference between 5 and 7 kHz, but by keeping the stock highpass, fails to address the other major peak at 3 - 4 kHz:

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It's counter-intuitive, but the tweeter's making the lower peak. See the individual driver curves at #54 and #59, above. The HF is also running 4 - 6 dB too "Hot," generally, and would be improved by attenuation. I'll try the kit with attenuation once I get "outside the box" here. I've got too much stuff crammed in there right now.

We'll find out if the first Speaker Builder mod does a better job with all of that, next.... :yes:
 

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OH, Poo,

Speaker Builder Mod #1 is the best sounding thus far:

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[And I did such a nice job building it in there, too.... ;) ]
 

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Good 'ol 15 and friend

You'd think I had a lot of these.
(Art installation, many discrete channels, boooooring....)
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Heh, heh.

Some duct tape'd dress 'em up REAL nice, Skywave. :tongue:

[I spy a HF Comp'd PC board there, too...! :thmbsp: ]

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I have a spare M7 woofer and attached its cut sheet. Will be interesting to see how close it is to *reality*.

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Thank you, Celt.

I measured Fs = 70 Hz, and Qts = 0.42 at #62, above.

The model number on the woofer is #1218; your cut sheet may be for a different one.

There's a parts reference online somewhere, but I haven't looked any of this up yet.... :dunno:
 
External:

Two screws remove the input terminals and stock crossover from inside the Minimus 7, shown here (left) with the Speaker Builder #1 mod still installed.

I replaced it with gasketed fiberboard having two small holes for bringing out the woofer and tweeter leads, in anticipation of prototyping the circuits RayW suggested above.... :thmbsp:

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RW #2 Mod

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Relies excessively on the woofer playing HF, which it doesn't do all that well. M7 "crispness" is gone; sounds like the tiny box that it is.... :dunno:
 

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RayW Mod #1:

The thrill is back. ;)

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[Are we done yet? :tongue: ]
 

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Quick mod that I did some time ago:
PB-1:
1.5 mH to woofer, 4.7 uF + 3 ohm shunt

2.7 uF + 4 ohms to tweeter, keep original .4 mH inductor.
Use 2 to 3 ohms for a hotter high end.
 
Thank you, Skywave!

What's your model #, please?

[Looks like they play the same in New York as in Berkeley; Peoria remaining indeterminate.... :tongue: ]
 
Thank you, Skywave!

What's your model #, please?

[Looks like they play the same in New York as in Berkeley.... :tongue: ]

My crappy RTA correlates with your real measurements pretty well.

They are made in Japan, Minimus 7, cat #40-2030c
The QC sticker says: no. 6737 1A9
The other one is painted over, don't know if they are similar vintage.

Staying tuned....
 
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