Klh 17

Hello AudioFred,

Don't think 33s are mentioned in this thread.....which deals with upgrading 17s.
 
KLH-17 Schematic:

I'm posting it here so I can find it; please verify.

At S1 center position, the connection is "None."

attachment.php

KLH Seventeen Schematic

As drawn:

S1 up = Increase, yellow
S1 center = Decrease, cyan
S1 down = Nomal, green

Switch positions are opposite in the speakers themselves:

attachment.php

Compare voltage drive transfer function above to attenuation performance measured three months ago:

attachment.php

At the time, I thought this tweeter was possibly defective, but the actual behavior now appears to be substantially according to the stock filter design. There's very little "boost" of the top octave in the "Increase" position; it merely makes the upper mids ~2 dB more "forward...." :yes:
 

Attachments

  • KLH-17 Schematic.jpg
    KLH-17 Schematic.jpg
    9.5 KB · Views: 453
  • KLH-17 XO SSa.jpg
    KLH-17 XO SSa.jpg
    49.2 KB · Views: 443
Confirmed. C3 is the 2x4uf cap, paralleled.

Just for the record, here's a WT3 impedance sweep of the stock (rev 0) Model 17 tweeter. This is the 3/5" cone. I can also supply sweeps on the rev 1 mini-dome, if wanted. This tweet didn't make a big enough impedance bump for WT3 to guess at an Fs, but I'd say ~1.8KHz.

KLH17tweeter.jpg


I would have posted this earlier, but I was listening to Saint-Saen's Organ Symphony. With my stock KLH's, the only way I knew the E. Power Biggs was tromping on the pedals was by reading the liner notes. Now I can hear them big, round notes! :D
 
ZILCH, thank you, thank you, thank you! For this:

Zilch-T-Nuts.jpg


After recent repacking with extra Acousta-Stuf, my ZLH-17 cabs had serious leakage problems around the rim of the woofer, verified by doing the stethoscope thing. The wood was just too flaky for anything to get a grip. This solution avoids depending on the existing wood any which way.

We, the mechanically challenged of the world, thank you humbly.
allhail.gif
 
I just used that set in crumbly, crappy, particle board A60s here.

[Sound good now, tho.... ;) ]
 
My 17's are greatly improved, also. :thmbsp:

And next weekend they're going to live with my son! :cry: Guess I better finish the E'Wadvents. :yes:
 
Zilch, got referred here by you.

I am looking at ways to get punchier bass and my KLH's are expendable.

This is a repost of my edit in the other thread:
I tried this particular driver and according to WinISD it has a flat response in a .9 cu ft enclosure up to 1000 hz (can't get program to go to 1500 but I assume its flat all the way) and a nice smooth 1db hump around 100.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-485&ctab=2#Tabs

Any thoughts?
2rvy6fs.jpg
 
The "subwoofer" appellation invites a harder look at how high it'll play gracefully. The spec sheet suggests it turns nasty above 1 kHz, but the only way to know for sure is to try it.... :dunno:
 
The "subwoofer" appellation invites a harder look at how high it'll play gracefully. The spec sheet suggests it turns nasty above 1 kHz, but the only way to know for sure is to try it.... :dunno:

yeah i noticed that. how high does the stock klh driver go to? A guy in the other thread said 1500 hz. is this correct?
 
yeah i noticed that. how high does the stock klh driver go to? A guy in the other thread said 1500 hz. is this correct?
Probably. Looking back, I only measured them nearfield; once I determined that their allgededly excellent bass response was fiction, and knowing that I was upgrading the tweeter to a waveguide, I didn't need to know anything about the high end.

Note that there's no lowpass on the woofer in the stock crossover. Whatever you use, you're likely going to have to shut down any modern woofer's high end. You can see in the sim @ #182, above, what the highpass looks like, electrically....
 
Probably. Looking back, I only measured them nearfield; once I determined that their allgededly excellent bass response was fiction, and knowing that I was upgrading the tweeter to a waveguide, I didn't need to know anything about the high end.

Note that there's no lowpass on the woofer in the stock crossover. Whatever you use, you're likely going to have to shut down any modern woofer's high end. You can see in the sim @ #182, above, what the highpass looks like, electrically....

The only thing about them that impresses me is the cabinet. I enjoy listening to my much larger (and somehow lighter) less acclaimed 3-way technics bookshelves over the klh's.

The drivers just seem junky and the response seems to be mostly mid, the high and low is kind of lacking. The 20 lb cabinets are really nice.
 
Last edited:
The drivers just seem junky and the response seems to be mostly mid, the high and low is kind of lacking.
From my measurements, they certainly do not live up to the hype, and I've looked at two pair now.

The highs are there, but you must toe them in to hear them; by 30° off axis, there's nobody home up top. There is no extended low frequency response.
 
Realistic STA-2200

That one is noted for tubby bass. To double-check, try at least one different amp.

Trying to make a KLH17 (or in my case, a 20) into something it isn't can be fun. But reflect; just what the hail is it? As is?

An acoustic suspension 40+ collectable. Good aesthetics. To my ears, pleasing mids and a good nearfield imager, after a recap. Needs power. Less cantankerous than the same year AR-2ax.

The drivers just seem junky and the response seems to be mostly mid, the high and low is kind of lacking.

Source material at the time, say a scratched record on a botl BSR TT with worn-out cart, might not have sounded so good with extended highs and lows; you'd get more hissss and rumble than music. Rolled-off highs was a decision for the millions to enjoy what they had.

For the few who could afford RTR and exceptional carts and superb amps, a 17 wasn't usually matched with them. I will argue about your 'junky' adjective though--this represented one of the best values in the history of audio. Junk, OTOH, usually disintegrates in short order.

My collection will always have at least one unmodified A.S. 60's veniered set because I admire the historic qualities even of the not rare models, but I wouldn't get out of joint or snooty if we put new guts in a spare pair.

Ports and fiberglass don't make sense though...
 
Last edited:
Ports and fiberglass don't make sense though...
I struggled to keep them closed-box. Your assignment, should you choose to accept it, is to find a modern woofer that'll work worth a whit in that alignment to provide extended bass; the original certainly didn't....
 
That one is noted for tubby bass. To double-check, try at least one different amp.

Trying to make a KLH17 (or in my case, a 20) into something it isn't can be fun. But reflect; just what the hail is it? As is?

.

Running the behringer actually. I don't even really use the STA-2200. I run straight into the behringer. The KLH's do sound good on the realistic because it has more warmth to begin with.
 
For $12 each, try a pair.

You can see me working with the Goldwood earlier in this thread.

Another candidate is the Madisound replacement for the Dynaco A-25, but I never checked out the dimensions to see if it'd fit, 'cause I had the Daytons on hand....
 
I struggled to keep them closed-box. Your assignment, should you choose to accept it, is to find a modern woofer that'll work worth a whit in that alignment to provide extended bass; the original certainly didn't....

Well I use different systems for different genres. Couldn't live with one Swiss Army Knife speaker.

These KLH-20's are great with classical guitar. :thmbsp: No need for extended bass there...

I have SpeakerLab 7's with fab bass, when I need to Feel The Reaper... :D
 
Well I didnt feel like spending my $30 on the speakers so I bought a bottle of jagermeister and some RIT dye instead.

So far, the dye has made my speakers look alot better atleast. I think it may have rejuvenated or thickened the cones or something the bass response seems a tiny bit better
 
Back
Top Bottom