I'm gonna try that "deep scribe" approach myself.
My level of skill with a jig saw is well documented here on AK.... :tongue:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=92093&d=1211493770
Hey dudes, my Wired Magazine E-Wave board build was finally promoted last Friday and has been on the front page of www.wired.com ever since. They even edited the picture to feature my dopey mug. Hopefully we've gotten enough traffic so we can finish with the waveguide install video!

Ironically, they're the best-sounding E'Waves I've ever built, and will likely become my mains. :yes:Zilch, Damn you got mad SKILZZZ. Now step away from the JigSaw!![]()
At the time, you were worried about not having the requisite skill, so I set the bar low. Result: the dumpster bin masterpiece shown in your avatar. If I'd have made you send them to me, they'd be proudly displayed in my living room right now. :thmbsp:U know I love that, Zilch....Oh Man! Shedding tears here......![]()
Use -6 dB as the lower limit of usable bass in making comparisons. By -10 dB, there's none worth counting, for all intents....Zilch, In WinISD what is the extended bass. How do you measure or read the value from the graph , I am kinda puzzled. Does it refer to the -10db or -3db measurement on the gain graph?
B, here is a little trick I learned way back when I was a car audio installer. Take a scrap piece of material 3/4 thick x 1 inch wide x 8 inches long, in one end drill a hole about 1" in big enough to get a #8 drywall screw through. Now from the center of that hole measure half of the diameter of the opening you need to make and mark it. Now drill another #8 drywall screw through the material on the mark(do not drill a pilot hole). Now take the screw out and flip the scrap piece over and put the screw through the hole from the other side, this way the screw will come out at the exact point that you marked. Now mark the center point on the baffle where you want the speaker hole, using the pre drilled hole tightly screw the jig down at that point , now put the other screw in the other hole until it starts to come out the other side and touch the baffle. Now turn the jig clockwise and the tip of the screw will leave a scribe in the baffle where the hole will be, all you have to do now is keep putting the screw in more and keep turning until you get between a 1/16 and 1/8 inch deep scribe. Drill a pilot hole inside the circle big enough for you jig saw blade. The blade will automatically want to follow the scribe because there is less resistance and if you take your time you can get a really nice and clean hole. I hope this helps.
Has anyone done an E-Wave with a passive radiator?
The collaborators thank you!CONGRATS Zilch on the June Wired Magazine mantion on page 44! Sweeeet!
Hey dudes, my Wired Magazine E-Wave board build was finally promoted last Friday and has been on the front page of www.wired.com ever since.
I'm gonna try that "deep scribe" approach myself.
My level of skill with a jig saw is well documented here on AK.... :tongue:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=92093&d=1211493770
I have a router, now.i did not bother show the open wound, but that one looks pretty good to me. With a little imagination you can see the hack job.
I have a router, now.
[That's gonna require "supervision...."]
I have a router, now.
[That's gonna require "supervision...."]
That's the route I'm going, its just to difficult to do it simply!
Russellc
I've decided to make a modification to Oldskl's manual circle scribe technique. Instead of using a plain screw as the scribe point I'm going to try to take a much larger screw, cut a real tooling bit point on it and then harden it.
That's very cool, and I like Jules Dassin. But what if you used a rotozip instead of a a sharp tool? Wouldn't you have the poor man's plunge router and circle jig?