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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

I'm gonna try that "deep scribe" approach myself.

My level of skill with a jig saw is well documented here on AK.... :tongue:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=92093&d=1211493770

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah!!!!!OMG!!!Hahaha.
U know I love that, Zilch....Oh Man! Shedding tears here......:D

Hey dudes, my Wired Magazine E-Wave board build was finally promoted last Friday and has been on the front page of www.wired.com ever since. They even edited the picture to feature my dopey mug. Hopefully we've gotten enough traffic so we can finish with the waveguide install video!

Yeah!!!:banana:
 
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Zilch,
Damn you got mad SKILZZZ. Now step away from the JigSaw:D

I'll give you credit though, I usually hide my mistakes...

There's three FAKE ports here:
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Zilch, In WinISD what is the extended bass. How do you measure or read the value from the graph , I am kinda puzzled. Does it refer to the -10db or -3db measurement on the gain graph?
 
Zilch, Damn you got mad SKILZZZ. Now step away from the JigSaw! :D
Ironically, they're the best-sounding E'Waves I've ever built, and will likely become my mains. :yes:

U know I love that, Zilch....Oh Man! Shedding tears here......:D
At the time, you were worried about not having the requisite skill, so I set the bar low. Result: the dumpster bin masterpiece shown in your avatar. If I'd have made you send them to me, they'd be proudly displayed in my living room right now. :thmbsp:

Zilch, In WinISD what is the extended bass. How do you measure or read the value from the graph , I am kinda puzzled. Does it refer to the -10db or -3db measurement on the gain graph?
Use -6 dB as the lower limit of usable bass in making comparisons. By -10 dB, there's none worth counting, for all intents....
 
B, here is a little trick I learned way back when I was a car audio installer. Take a scrap piece of material 3/4 thick x 1 inch wide x 8 inches long, in one end drill a hole about 1" in big enough to get a #8 drywall screw through. Now from the center of that hole measure half of the diameter of the opening you need to make and mark it. Now drill another #8 drywall screw through the material on the mark(do not drill a pilot hole). Now take the screw out and flip the scrap piece over and put the screw through the hole from the other side, this way the screw will come out at the exact point that you marked. Now mark the center point on the baffle where you want the speaker hole, using the pre drilled hole tightly screw the jig down at that point , now put the other screw in the other hole until it starts to come out the other side and touch the baffle. Now turn the jig clockwise and the tip of the screw will leave a scribe in the baffle where the hole will be, all you have to do now is keep putting the screw in more and keep turning until you get between a 1/16 and 1/8 inch deep scribe. Drill a pilot hole inside the circle big enough for you jig saw blade. The blade will automatically want to follow the scribe because there is less resistance and if you take your time you can get a really nice and clean hole. I hope this helps.



Great. looks like a method is found and dam the routers! I still want one!:yes:

russellc
 
Why I don't trust my jigsaw skills.

High contrast markings help a lot but you definitely want this mess hidden behind something.


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Check my work

I'm awful at math and was wondering if someone could check my work.

My econowaves will be using two 3" (dia) x 4.5" (length) ports. I was originally going to place them around back but now plan on front firing them so I can move the enclosures against the back wall.

I don't want to mess up the nice look of the front with 2 round ports and I don't want to use a grill so my new plan is to convert the volume of the 2 round ports to the dimensions of 1 wide rectangular port. First off how will this effect the sound? Is there a reason to use round ports over rectangular or square ports?

Here's my math...
The volume of 1 of my circular ports (I rounded Pi to 3):
V = Pi x R² x Length
30.375 = 3 x 2.25 x 4.5

The volume of 2 ports is twice that: 60.75

I want the rectangular port to have a width of 12" (to match my woofer) and a height of 1" so it should work out like so:
12" wide x 1" high x 5.0625" deep

Is this the correct process?
 
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I have a router, now.

[That's gonna require "supervision...." ;) ]

The last thing I used my router on was a 3/4" roundover on a 2' X 4' slab of cast aluminum tooling plate. There isn't enough ear protection in the world for the shriek that makes when carbide bites into it.

I've decided to make a modification to Oldskl's manual circle scribe technique. Instead of using a plain screw as the scribe point I'm going to try to take a much larger screw, cut a real tooling bit point on it and then harden it. The methodology will be the same but a shaped cutter should make a smoother edge on the cut. maybe it's a waste of time but I do enjoy getting things red hot with a torch then dunking them in oil.
My rosewood veneer for the baffles came and the grain pattern's off center for this application so I'm probably back to plain walnut veneer, which I can make work.
 
That's the route I'm going, its just to difficult to do it simply!

Russellc

Simple is often more difficult, paradoxically.

I'm dubbing OLDSKL's manual circle cutter OLDSKL's Cesar Jig. In the 1955 Jules Dassin film Rififi, Dassin plays a safe cracker named Cesar le Milanais. To crack a safe noiselessly (30 minutes of the film elapse without a word spoken) he assembles a manual cutting jig to score a hole through the side of the safe.

It was a different time and place. Can you imagine burglars in neckties now?

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This is the kind of cutting point I'm talking about. I whittled this out of a 1/4" eye bolt based on the shapes of commercial lathe cutting points I've used.
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I've decided to make a modification to Oldskl's manual circle scribe technique. Instead of using a plain screw as the scribe point I'm going to try to take a much larger screw, cut a real tooling bit point on it and then harden it.

That's very cool, and I like Jules Dassin. But what if you used a rotozip instead of a a sharp tool? Wouldn't you have the poor man's plunge router and circle jig?
 
That's very cool, and I like Jules Dassin. But what if you used a rotozip instead of a a sharp tool? Wouldn't you have the poor man's plunge router and circle jig?

I'm not trying to do the whole hole this way, just score a guide groove so a jigsaw can be used to cut the hole smoothly. I know a router with a circle jig would do this in an instant, but I think it's worthwhile to develop a technique to get good results for people without a router and a $40 jig. I'm using a $5 plastic jig saw from a yard sale and a hand full of screws. For us it's worth investing in good tools because we'll amortize the cost over many projects. I'm thinking of the guy who wants to make one pair of speakers without a three figure investment in power tools he might not otherwise need.
This woofer hole is for a rear-mounted woofer and I don't know the quality of finish a rotozip leaves. Might be a bit rough since it's not a finish quality tool.
My great grandfather was a pretty good wood worker. He hand built a travel trailer that he put over 100,000 miles on. The only power tools he had were a primitive hand drill, a frighteningly dangerous table saw that he built and a huge grinder. Everything else was technique rather than technology. He was born on an Amish farm in 1885 so that's how he learned. I think learning a skill to do something manually has benefits that buying a specialized piece of equipment can't match.
 
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