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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

The Karlson K15 is a known for mid-bass. Freddi is the guy to talk to about the K15. He'll tell you I think, that if you wanted to go down in size from the K15 to say, a 12" speaker (K12) then you would just downscale the existing K15 plans by 20%. So make a 75% or 80% scale version.

Hopefully the picture I found on the Internet comes up and isn't a red-x.
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What's interesting is that when I was reading up on the C34 last night, I noticed that it sold new with a 12" baffle cutout that was removeable. So the C34 was also designed to be used with 12" woofers in it's existing design. So it sounds like the C34/4530 design is pretty flexible.
 

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Looks like the perfect cab D, it is 15" shorter and a foot narrower than the 4530 scoops and the lit says it goes down to 25hz with the 12" driver. I've never heard one and I wonder how many db it is down at 25hz.
 
Some thoughts on BLH, etc.

Zilch is right. BLH are much less 'generic' than Acoustic Suspension or BR. One particular cab should work well with only a small range of drivers.
It's almost worth deciding on a driver FIRST, then designing an easily-cut horn pattern.
Incorporate into the front baffle space for the WG (and area behind for the driver), and into the BOTTOM of the cab a cavity for a BR 10" sub (and plate amp if necessary).

The Karlsons look like they'd be a problem to incorporate a WG into. My wife did some reverse engineering (she's a CAD designer) on small Karlson enclosures for her boss' uncle a while back. Apparently he owns some patented IP on the Karlson technology. I doubt that would be much help, though. There are people who have worked out Karlsons on their own to the last detail.

The problem with BLH is all that lumber costs a lot to ship. It almost has to be a user-cut project. Bill Fitz. uses recommended 'builders' to construct his designs for buyers.

Here's a drawing my wife did of teh front baffle for the OLA conversion:

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would anyone know where to find the formula for calculating the back loading area? particularly for cylindrical meas.
I'm scanning the net but thought you'all might know, Thanks
 
PCB solder connections?

Zilch,

Is a picture of the back of these boards posted anywhere on AK? If not, would you mind sending me one via PM? I've never made a crossover using a these boards before, always done it the old-fashion way. Need to see how the connections are soldered up.

Thanks,
Scott

Zilch said:
Pair of high-efficiency variant E'Wave crossovers set up for conversion to biamp operation later:

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Solder lugs on binding posts (they come with,) shown connecting the two filter sections. Use them with another pair of inputs instead, and each section may be driven separately.... :yes:
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The paper version of Wired is out-Props to Zilch & AK!

I know it's been on the Wired website but it's nice to see Audiokarma prominently referenced on paper- June 17 issue, page 44.

Thanks to Zilch for raising the collective awareness of this fine site! And for such a great thread.
 
BmWr75 said:
Is a picture of the back of these boards posted anywhere on AK? If not, would you mind sending me one via PM? I've never made a crossover using a these boards before, always done it the old-fashion way. Need to see how the connections are soldered up.
Click to expand...
Chris shows "How-to" on YouTube here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw7pTwpx0K0

Rotoplooker said:
I know it's been on the Wired website but it's nice to see Audiokarma prominently referenced on paper- June 17 issue, page 44.

Thanks to Zilch for raising the collective awareness of this fine site! And for such a great thread.
Click to expand...
And thanks to AK's own Wiredbecker for putting the article and video together! :thmbsp:
 
Zilch,

Determined the efficiency of the Wharfedale W60s to be 93 dB today by using an SPL meter and measuring the W60 in comparison with a speaker of known efficiency, a Klipsch KSB 3.1, 94 dB efficient 1W/1M. So, it looks like the standard 8 ohm Econowaver crossover is just the ticket for the W60, correct?

Thanks, BmwR75
 
BmWr75 said:
Determined the efficiency of the Wharfedale W60s to be 93 dB today by using an SPL meter and measuring the W60 in comparison with a speaker of known efficiency, a Klipsch KSB 3.1, 94 dB efficient 1W/1M. So, it looks like the standard 8 ohm Econowaver crossover is just the ticket for the W60, correct?
Click to expand...
Sounds right, but switching from one to the other is just two components, so it's not a big deal....
 
BmWr75 said:
Zilch,

Is a picture of the back of these boards posted anywhere on AK? If not, would you mind sending me one via PM? I've never made a crossover using a these boards before, always done it the old-fashion way. Need to see how the connections are soldered up.

Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...

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Alright I'm caught back up, it's just been to many things goin on
around here to keep track of the ever winding Wave!

Some very nice looking/interesting stuff you guy's have been upto.

Ross your latest project is truly looking like a work of art there buddy!
 
Kegger said:
Alright I'm caught back up, it's just been to many things goin on
around here to keep track of the ever winding Wave!

Some very nice looking/interesting stuff you guy's have been upto.

Ross your latest project is truly looking like a work of art there buddy!
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's a work of work, actually. The art part is yet to come. I'll never use Tung Oil again. Nasty, runny stuff.

**EDIT**
Things I hate about Minwax Tung Oil:
* It's mostly solvent, which is a ripoff
* Goes on very runny, forcing you to either have many thin coats or risk runs.
* takes many hours to tack up, up to 24 hours to harden, risking dust particles and accidents
* very slow to get multiple coats on. See above
* can only be put on a perfectly horizontal surface, unlike true oils

I'm sanding it off of half of the surfaces I put it on and I'll have to start over.
It does give a nice gloss, but beware; it's not a true penetrating oil, it's a varnish with some penetrating qualities and lots of disadvantages.

I refinished a mahogany cabinet for a Mac C20 once using the classic formula of flake shellac and alcohol. It took many many coats but you've never seen a finish with depth and sheen like that.

**/EDIT**
 
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Bauhausler said:
Thanks. It's a work of work, actually. The art part is yet to come. I'll never use Tung Oil again. Nasty, runny stuff.
Click to expand...

I've gone away from using Tung Oil as well. I am now using Minwax semi gloss. If I don't want it shiney at all, I sand the last coat with 1000 grit and use paste wax on it.
 
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