The "$250" Amp? - 6LU8 Compactron SE, UL
- Thread starter Wigwam Jones
- Start date
The AnTek specs are based on 115V according to the diagram in the PDF file for the AN-3T275
I just measured the AnTek's output with the rectifier pulled. I get 270V with no load.
I also measured my house voltage again. Now it is a steady 113V. That might answer the drop in voltage from my first measurements.
I just measured the AnTek's output with the rectifier pulled. I get 270V with no load.
I also measured my house voltage again. Now it is a steady 113V. That might answer the drop in voltage from my first measurements.
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On your order from RadioDaze, items #5, 6, 7 are "6e0 Ohms and 1.eK Ohms 1/eW Resistors"... seems like the 'e's should be something else? or not? :scratch2:
sled108
Super Member
Oh, Jeeze...This is why this is such a tricky thing...I can only figure that on the RadioDaze form,..they call "2" an "e".....Try putting a "2" in where They say "e" and see how that works...Or else Just go thru the Schematic and Order each resistor and see how they do it...
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sled108
Super Member
So... This is what I was going to Post about This Amp...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WUR5U-eRMg
I named It "Breakfast in NJ"..But Amazon is trying to Sell you what it Really is...How Do They Know??
Or, this is better.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQRaW14AcfQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WUR5U-eRMg
I named It "Breakfast in NJ"..But Amazon is trying to Sell you what it Really is...How Do They Know??
Or, this is better.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQRaW14AcfQ
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Compactron BOM
I started putting together a list of parts for this project. If I'd missed anything Hopefully others will chime in.
I took what I have from sleb108's orders and the attached schematics.
Please let me know where I am wrong and what is missing..... other than common stuff like wire, solder, etc.
1 ----- (power) Transformer - Hammond 270FX..275V/150ma OR the Antek AN-3T275 used on original build
(using Hammond power tranny 5v or a 6.3v recifier can be used, 5V4G or 6BY5G, EZ81) or Edcor XPWR007..
2 ----- (output) Transformer - GXSE10-8-5K or the cheaper XSE15-8-5K (or the bigger/beefier GXSE15-8-5K)
2 ----- RDC-100 Economy Universal Choke
2 ----- 6LU8 tubes (should pick up extras for matching)
1 ----- 6BY5G tube , Or EZ81/6CA4 (with Antek Power) plus if using that Hammond, Edcor 5V4G is an option
2 ----- 680 Ohms 10 Watt resistor (5w would be good enough) (750ohm bit less current then 680ohm)
2 ----- 510 Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 620 Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 1.2K Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 2.7K Ohms 1watt resistor (power, R5)
2 ----- 2.7K Ohms 1/2watt resistor (grid, R10)
6 ----- 270k Ohms 1/2watt resistor
4 ----- 100K Ohms 1/2watt resistor (or (2) 51k 1watt)
4 ----- .33 uf 250v By-pass/coupling, poly or oil Capacitor (C1, C4)
2 ----- .33 uf 400v By-pass, poly or oil Capacitor (C5)
2 ----- 33 uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor "can be a poly cap" (C2)
2 ----- 220uf 100v Electrolytic Capacitor (C3) (50v rating on up, and upto 470uf)
2 ----- 1uf 400v poly or oil Capacitor (additional input caps for supply voltage tweak) (option)
1 ----- 100uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor (power supply cap) (33uf-150uf work here as well)
1 ----- 150uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor (power supply cap) (150uf-330uf work here as well)
2 ----- .47uf 400v By-Pass, poly or oil Capacitor (power supply bypass) (can be same as C5)
2 ----- 7uf 400v poly or oil Capacitor preferred (input cap for supply) (6.5uf - 25uf here, adj)
(BY-Pass caps also are not "Necessary") (C4, C5 and the (2) .47uf caps in the power supply)
Hardware
1 ----- Pair RCA jacks
1 ----- Pair Binding posts
2 ----- 12-pin Compactron sockets
1 ----- 8-pin octal socket or 9-pin socket if using EZ81
1 ----- Chassis
1 ----- Fuse holder
1 ----- 1.5 amp Fuse
1 ----- AC Switch
1 ----- Power cord (plus IEC socket if going detachable power cord)
(schematic on the first page is final build schematic, post 5).. BOM checked by .. 'Kegger' ..:thmbsp:
I started putting together a list of parts for this project. If I'd missed anything Hopefully others will chime in.
I took what I have from sleb108's orders and the attached schematics.
Please let me know where I am wrong and what is missing..... other than common stuff like wire, solder, etc.
1 ----- (power) Transformer - Hammond 270FX..275V/150ma OR the Antek AN-3T275 used on original build
(using Hammond power tranny 5v or a 6.3v recifier can be used, 5V4G or 6BY5G, EZ81) or Edcor XPWR007..
2 ----- (output) Transformer - GXSE10-8-5K or the cheaper XSE15-8-5K (or the bigger/beefier GXSE15-8-5K)
2 ----- RDC-100 Economy Universal Choke
2 ----- 6LU8 tubes (should pick up extras for matching)
1 ----- 6BY5G tube , Or EZ81/6CA4 (with Antek Power) plus if using that Hammond, Edcor 5V4G is an option
2 ----- 680 Ohms 10 Watt resistor (5w would be good enough) (750ohm bit less current then 680ohm)
2 ----- 510 Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 620 Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 1.2K Ohms 1/2watt resistor
2 ----- 2.7K Ohms 1watt resistor (power, R5)
2 ----- 2.7K Ohms 1/2watt resistor (grid, R10)
6 ----- 270k Ohms 1/2watt resistor
4 ----- 100K Ohms 1/2watt resistor (or (2) 51k 1watt)
4 ----- .33 uf 250v By-pass/coupling, poly or oil Capacitor (C1, C4)
2 ----- .33 uf 400v By-pass, poly or oil Capacitor (C5)
2 ----- 33 uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor "can be a poly cap" (C2)
2 ----- 220uf 100v Electrolytic Capacitor (C3) (50v rating on up, and upto 470uf)
2 ----- 1uf 400v poly or oil Capacitor (additional input caps for supply voltage tweak) (option)
1 ----- 100uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor (power supply cap) (33uf-150uf work here as well)
1 ----- 150uf 400v Electrolytic Capacitor (power supply cap) (150uf-330uf work here as well)
2 ----- .47uf 400v By-Pass, poly or oil Capacitor (power supply bypass) (can be same as C5)
2 ----- 7uf 400v poly or oil Capacitor preferred (input cap for supply) (6.5uf - 25uf here, adj)
(BY-Pass caps also are not "Necessary") (C4, C5 and the (2) .47uf caps in the power supply)
Hardware
1 ----- Pair RCA jacks
1 ----- Pair Binding posts
2 ----- 12-pin Compactron sockets
1 ----- 8-pin octal socket or 9-pin socket if using EZ81
1 ----- Chassis
1 ----- Fuse holder
1 ----- 1.5 amp Fuse
1 ----- AC Switch
1 ----- Power cord (plus IEC socket if going detachable power cord)
(schematic on the first page is final build schematic, post 5).. BOM checked by .. 'Kegger' ..:thmbsp:
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I would recommend these OPTs
GXSE10-8-5K
Why have your bass drop off higher when you can take it down lower for just a bit more each then?
If you want something other than 8 ohms, look here and chose ones that start with 10 and end with 5K.
GXSE Iron (if going parallel 6LU8 get the 15w outputs)
(the beefier 15w outputs should have more inductance and better bass, even for the standard build here)
The power transformer is here:
AN275
AnTek
The chokes are here:
Radio Daze
Part number - RDC-100
This is a good selection or motor run caps for those that want to use one for the first cap in the power supply:
TEDSS
(quantity of parts is updated in the previous post now to build 1 COMPLETE stereo tube amplifier)
GXSE10-8-5K
Why have your bass drop off higher when you can take it down lower for just a bit more each then?
If you want something other than 8 ohms, look here and chose ones that start with 10 and end with 5K.
GXSE Iron (if going parallel 6LU8 get the 15w outputs)
(the beefier 15w outputs should have more inductance and better bass, even for the standard build here)
The power transformer is here:
AN275
AnTek
The chokes are here:
Radio Daze
Part number - RDC-100
This is a good selection or motor run caps for those that want to use one for the first cap in the power supply:
TEDSS
(quantity of parts is updated in the previous post now to build 1 COMPLETE stereo tube amplifier)
Jimbofish, a couple of corrections:
The 0.33uF POL cap should be 33uF
The 47uF 400V caps should be 0.47uF
If I remember correctly, the 2.7Kohm resistors should be 1 watt. At least in the R5 position in the schematic. The one in the R10 position could be 1/2 watt. Kegger should confirm. I used 1 watt for both positions.
The 0.33uF POL cap should be 33uF
The 47uF 400V caps should be 0.47uF
If I remember correctly, the 2.7Kohm resistors should be 1 watt. At least in the R5 position in the schematic. The one in the R10 position could be 1/2 watt. Kegger should confirm. I used 1 watt for both positions.
Thanks... I knew there would be mistakes! I've made the changes suggested.
I had no idea the output transformers were frequency specific...
I think there should be another tube somewhere... yes/no? Isn't that what the 8-pin socket is for?
Is the Antek the preferred transformer or does Edcor make a suitable one? Just thinking of ordering both at once... On the same thought, could this be used for the output trans? http://www.antekinc.com/AT-020L.pdf
Whoa! Just noticed the price for those are $89 ea!
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Yes, I missed the rectifier. You need one 6BY5G tube. (added above)
I would also advise anyone thinking of building this amp to check their house voltage. If it is low like mine, you might want to consider modding the power supply to use 2 6W4 damper diodes instead of the 6BY5G.
I would also advise anyone thinking of building this amp to check their house voltage. If it is low like mine, you might want to consider modding the power supply to use 2 6W4 damper diodes instead of the 6BY5G.
vinylkid58
Super Member
Or go with the Hammond 270FX and a 5V4GA rectifier, which only drops 25V according to the data sheet. The Hammonds are noted for supplying a few extra volts.
Jeff
Doh! I studied that PS diagram forever and failed to recognize the tube... modding the PS is not an option for me at this point though. I'll stick with what's printed. Just to be sure, are the schematics I attached to the earlier post the final ones? I'm not clear about "Adjust 7uf for proper output voltage"... :scratch2:
That's why it helps to know what voltage you have at your wall sockets. Kegger has high house voltage and I have low house voltage. If your voltage matches Kegger's, 7uF is what you need. If you have a little less voltage, you'll need more capacitance than 7uF. If you have voltage as low as mine, you need to go to a different rectifier.
To get a better grasp of what happens in adjusting the power supply, I would suggest you install DuncanAmps' power supply simulation software:
http://www.duncanamps.com/psud2/index.html
Ummm... I have no clue what to do with that program... I can however measure my wall voltage. :yes: What was the voltage that gave the 7uf result?
sled108
Super Member
I've been dragging my feet on this....All I need to do is make the Last Order from RadioDaze, and Fire up the Iron...
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=233322&highlight=6dj8+phono+amp+diagram
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=233322&highlight=6dj8+phono+amp+diagram
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gearhound
Lunatic Member
www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/Buck_Boost.html
This page is called.....an inexpensive line voltage charger.
Shows you how to use a $10 Radio Shack 6.3v/4A filament transformer, to step your line voltage down.....well.....6.3 volts.
I made one.....and it works as advertised.....GREAT for use with vintage gear.
Obviously, you can also make one out of a 12.6v filament transformer for really old 110v vintage gear.
Some other interesting stuff as well.
Have fun!
Steve
This page is called.....an inexpensive line voltage charger.
Shows you how to use a $10 Radio Shack 6.3v/4A filament transformer, to step your line voltage down.....well.....6.3 volts.
I made one.....and it works as advertised.....GREAT for use with vintage gear.
Obviously, you can also make one out of a 12.6v filament transformer for really old 110v vintage gear.
Some other interesting stuff as well.
Have fun!
Steve
