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Mach One 4024, 4024A, 4029 Information and Upgrades!

Unless the vinyl front is dried out there shouldn't be any need to use a sealer. Not saying not to, just not convinced it's necessary. Vinyl tends to be tacky, and when something is attached that tight, for that long, it sticks pretty good. L-pad mount is the worst. I've found heating the lip with a hair dryer softens the contact point making it easier to pry apart.

Look forward to hearing more feedback after mods. So far the concensus is positive.
 
I added the extra foam sealer, because i did VL's mods where you open up the space where the horn is to allow for more space(air) for the woofer... so to be safe i added a seal in the front and the back small panel that closes the horn section... its not much more effort to make sure its is tight!
:)
 
gaskets

Same here i drilled the holes to allow extra space for the woofer and it does make sense to me that the added pressure may escape around the horn en closer and rear panel. Pete
 
I can definitely see the rear cover since that's bare wood.

Let me know how the sound is after you've completed and tested. I'm very curious what different ears think after the mods.
 
re capp

Im just recapping my Marantz 2075 should be ready Friday then i will try the sound after my first modification, cant wait for vidoladys report on crossover on the 4024a. Pete
 
My first Mach that i modded by opening the horn section, made a very noticeable difference in removing bominess, well fro me anyways....

Its a quick and easy mod to do, for me though rather than dril the 3 or 4 X 4 inch holes i simply cut out with a jigg saw a 12 X 4 inch sort of square, results would be the same... Just depends on what is easier for you at that time and what tools you have...
 
I'm having trouble locating a 1/8 X 1/16 foam to seal the mid range diaphragm... I've tried using a razor blade and cutting some down to size, but I'm not having much luck.

Any suggestions on where to find something suitable? (other than a home improvement or hardware store... I've tried them all)
 
1/8 thickness works fine you will compress anyway, as far as width it can 1/4 or more, i just linned the outter edge up with the line impressed by the horn enclossure so it doesent show on the outside, inside is not immportant there is room. as far as the hole for the bolts you can cover with the weatherstrip the locate the holes with you finger and use an awl or simmiler to puncture to allow the bolt easy access, as far as the rear pannel it also can be wider. The weatherstripping section at any home depot has 1/8 clossed cell. Pete
 
videolady201 said:
The Machs have a foam gasket that holds the midrange diaphram in place. It rots like the woofer foam. If the foam has rotted the mid diaphram will jump around and produce a lot of distortion. I had to replace it on my pair to clean up the mid distortion. You can use a 1/16" to 1/8" foam tape with sticky on one side. Cut it to the same width as the mid seal that is there now. Just something to check if the caps don't fix your problem. My model is the 4029.
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I'm having trouble locating a 1/8 X 1/16 foam to seal the mid range diaphragm... I've tried using a razor blade and cutting some down to size, but I'm not having much luck.

Any suggestions on where to find something suitable? (other than a home improvement or hardware store... I've tried them all)
 
Foam Source

Buttercup said:
I'm having trouble locating a 1/8 X 1/16 foam to seal the mid range diaphragm... I've tried using a razor blade and cutting some down to size, but I'm not having much luck.

Any suggestions on where to find something suitable? (other than a home improvement or hardware store... I've tried them all)
Click to expand...

I posted in the form some time back about the foam source. Here is a link to that post.:yes:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3769845#post3769845
 
Did you find covering the horns improved the sound, i have insulation behind both horns at the moment, pete
 
I have not tested them yet.... I still need to put all my drivers together back in the cabinets... but it should make a difference....

After i lightly sand the cabinets and put stain & Varnish them i will re-assemble and test.... BTW for all here i have 4024As and the bottom of the cabinet is also veneered... as i know some were not....

Have a good one all!
 
First Steps for Tier 2

Hello All. You can start working on your woofers to get them ready for Tier 2! I have attached some pictures that may help. This is where we coat the woofer cones with cyanoacrylate glue(super glue). This does a few things for us.

1..It will increase the frequency response of the woofer.
2..It adds a lot of strength that is much needed.
3..It also weather proofs your speaker.
4..It adds mass.
5..It gives the faded cone back it's original color.

As I stated before, with this glue, please read all the warnings about the safety of this glue. It will burn your eyes, your lungs, etc. I recommend a non fuming formula and to do this out doors and up wind! You will make as small a hole in the glue tip as possible. You will paint or draw this on the cone like you are coloring a white piece of paper with a pencil or felt tip pen. You need to use a 2 or 3 inch size clean dry paint brush to clean all the dust from the woofer cone first. One cleaned, Start with the glue at the edge of the dust cap and work you way up the cone. The dust caps on some of these older woofers comes loose, so make sure you go around the edge of the dust cap two times. If you get this glue on the dust cap, wipe if off with a paper towel right away. Work your way up to the surround. If you get it on the surround, wipe it off with a paper towel right away. The non-fuming glue will take an hour to fully dry. The standard will dry in 4 or 5 minutes, but it is deadly, the fumes are really bad. You can practice this on any piece of cardboard first to get a feel before doing your speakers! See the pictures and post if you have questions. Please don't PM me on this, post them in the thread because others may have the same questions and it will help them as well. More to come...!:yes:
 

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Looks great I will be doing mine tomorrow, how long before you can use them ,either glue. Pete
 
tmblack said:
Does the Super glue affect the higher frequencies?
How is the sound of the woofer altered?
Click to expand...

The high frequencies are extended, the sound is cleaned up and the large cone is less prone to the drumhead effect. The bass is tighter and cleaner with more punch.
 
I'm guessing that this is the same idea as adding Mod-Podge to a woofer, a very common DIY upgrade and well documented on the net.
 
My 4024 Woofers has a large peak at 600Hz in the cabinet.
Would this super glue mod reduce that peak and extend the range to 1200Hz?
 
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