Record Bin From single 4 x 8 Sheet of Plywood - Plans
- Thread starter sxty8goats
- Start date
timie1
Member
Nice work everyone.
I may make one sometime soon - I don't have enough LP's to justify one yet, but we'll see.
Just wanted to add a tip for all you guys staining it.
Sand to 120 grit, then "water pop" the wood. Get a bucket of water, a rag, and wet the wood. Don't saturate it, just lightly wet it. Wait for it to dry completely, anywhere from 2 minutes up to maybe 20 minutes depending on relative humidity.
Don't sand it after having wet it. When it's dry, then stain it.
The water will raise the grain and accept stain so much better. This works wonderfully on harder woods, including the veneers of, oak, maple, birch and so on. If you get blotchy results when you stain it's because you probably sanded too smooth, especially so with maple and maple veneer. Maple doesn't take stain very well at the best of times, so do the water pop trick on that. But it also helps with birch and oak veneers. FWIW, if you pretty much want foolproof results, only ever use oak if you plan to stain. It's so easy to work with and takes stain like carpet takes red wine stains.
After you've stained it, apply 2 coats of polyurethane, then sand lightly (with 400 grit paper) before you put a 3rd coat on. Once you get to the third coat it'll take on a decent look. After only 1 coat of poly it will look crap. It really needs AT LEAST 2 coats, but 3 coats is better. After the 2nd coat, always sand between the coats. The more coats you put on the better.
Good luck.
I may make one sometime soon - I don't have enough LP's to justify one yet, but we'll see.
Just wanted to add a tip for all you guys staining it.
Sand to 120 grit, then "water pop" the wood. Get a bucket of water, a rag, and wet the wood. Don't saturate it, just lightly wet it. Wait for it to dry completely, anywhere from 2 minutes up to maybe 20 minutes depending on relative humidity.
Don't sand it after having wet it. When it's dry, then stain it.
The water will raise the grain and accept stain so much better. This works wonderfully on harder woods, including the veneers of, oak, maple, birch and so on. If you get blotchy results when you stain it's because you probably sanded too smooth, especially so with maple and maple veneer. Maple doesn't take stain very well at the best of times, so do the water pop trick on that. But it also helps with birch and oak veneers. FWIW, if you pretty much want foolproof results, only ever use oak if you plan to stain. It's so easy to work with and takes stain like carpet takes red wine stains.
After you've stained it, apply 2 coats of polyurethane, then sand lightly (with 400 grit paper) before you put a 3rd coat on. Once you get to the third coat it'll take on a decent look. After only 1 coat of poly it will look crap. It really needs AT LEAST 2 coats, but 3 coats is better. After the 2nd coat, always sand between the coats. The more coats you put on the better.
Good luck.
Last edited:
Sansui Louie
Curmudgeon
I plan on building two of these on Saturday. Any up-to-date tips on assembly, hardware, etc?
sxty8goats
Super Member
Love the draws. Nice additions. If any of you who made them have sketches or drawings of the draws, send me a pm and we'll figure out a way to add it to the first post in the thread.
I'm sure that it takes the final assembly past one sheet of plywood but for many it will be worth the extra.
I'm sure that it takes the final assembly past one sheet of plywood but for many it will be worth the extra.
sxty8goats
Super Member
Added a link to the water tip post to the first post in this thread. Created a list area for member variations and tips.
Greetings!
New member here.
I registered because of this thread. I am going to use OAK
Question..
1. What size screws are you using? I plan on countersinking them, Since it's oak I am thinking.. maybe a gold colored screw?
2. What are you using to attach the moulding?
finishing nails?
thanks!
New member here.
I registered because of this thread. I am going to use OAK
Question..
1. What size screws are you using? I plan on countersinking them, Since it's oak I am thinking.. maybe a gold colored screw?
2. What are you using to attach the moulding?
finishing nails?
thanks!
sxty8goats
Super Member
If you are planing on countersinking the screws, consider going a bit deeper then installing wooden plugs above the screws. It can result in an attractive finish after you sand them flush and stain.
Anyone have any advice on the molding?
dennismiller
Active Member
I know this is a long running thread but I just found it. Thanks to the OP. Right now my LP's are in boxes. I thought about building a shelf like a bookcase. This design allows you to flip thru the collection rather than slide each LP out on a bookcase shelf.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Lowes and Home Depot both have a wide selection of molding in various widths. Take a look and choose what pleases you. I glued mine (on a Flexie Rack) and then used small brads. I sunk the brads and filled the tiny holes with filler before I stained it.
greenmark59
Can ya' hear that?
The build is not really that hard even for a "newbie" and the functionality of the bin IMHO far exceeds any bookshelf type system. The only "con" is that the bin takes up more room out and away from a wall. I even made a 1/2 size bin for the rest of my LPs because the regular size bin was still not big enough for my collection.
sxty8goats
Super Member
I happened on another member's thread where he mentioned that he had built one out of a sheet of plywood and had pics (as seen in the first post). I've yet to actually build one myself for reasons undefined. The intent it there but for now I'm living vicariously through the others who have. I'll get one or two done eventually.
So you are welcome but I have to thank everyone else who have built them and posted the results here. It gives me great joy to see them built and to be able to feel like I've actually contributed to this great group of folks.
x2turbo
Well-Known Member
A solution other than molding would to use an iron on veneer. It can be picked up at home centers in various widths and is a simple as ironing on and trimming the excess width off. It will give you an excellent result. It's pretty easy to find in oak, birch and cheery and I typically use a width that is one size larger than the thickness of my board. Trim it with a utility knife or better yet an edge band trimming cutter that only costs a few dollars and then sand the edge smooth.
bobrown14
Super Member