Isn't this special...
- Thread starter avionic
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4seatPilot
"Broker"
I assume by "special" you mean crazy, dirty, solder mess? And wrong outputs?
Did you replace, or repair the boards?
Did you replace, or repair the boards?
So far just cleaned then up. I had a little idle time at my "daytime" job..:yes:
The PCB's in my C4 were sort of greasy, I guess since they are upside down all the dust and gunk goes in. I cleaned them up and they look like new, there was also what looked like dried up flux around the solder joints on the jumpers between the boards I cleaned all that off too.
It works fine now with all new Panasonic Electrolytics, all controls and switches deoxited and set to factory specs.
I found that Magic Eraser does a fine job of cleaning up the front panel as well.
It works fine now with all new Panasonic Electrolytics, all controls and switches deoxited and set to factory specs.
I found that Magic Eraser does a fine job of cleaning up the front panel as well.
Magic eraser is a micro-abrasive. Good for dipping your TT stylus in once and a while and cleaning tile and hard stuff around the house.
That's what I usually use it for but dipped in a little soap and warm water it was the only thing that would take all the marks off the front panel.
It didn't affect the lettering at all and now it looks like new.
Those black Yamaha face panel look great but after years of use with grimy fingers they need a good clean.:thmbsp:
I am going to recap my M2 next.
bobrown14
Super Member
I used much higher voltage ones for these * as the size would have been tiny. I also used slightly higher voltages in a few others for convenience sake. I also had a few left over at the end as I over ordered, better to have more than less IMO.
Yamaha C4 Recap:
Quantity Part Number Description
4 X P10347-ND X *CAP ALUM 220UF 63V 20% RADIAL
5 X P10305-ND X *CAP ALUM 1000UF 35V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10340-ND X *CAP ALUM 47UF 63V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10267-ND X CAP ALUM 47UF 25V 20% RADIAL
16 X P10765-ND X CAP ALUM 1UF 100V 20% RADIAL
10 X P11198-ND X CAP ALUM 100UF 16V 20% RADIAL
2 X P10769-ND X CAP ALUM 10UF 100V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10320-ND X CAP ALUM 33UF 50V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10220-ND X CAP ALUM 220UF 10V 20% RADIAL
8 X P10321-ND X CAP ALUM 47UF 50V 20% RADIAL
2 X P10328-ND X CAP ALUM 470UF 50V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10768-ND X CAP ALUM 4.7UF 100V 20% RADIAL
4 X P10766-ND X CAP ALUM 2.2UF 100V 20% RADIAL
2 X P10323-ND X CAP ALUM 100UF 50V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1196-ND X CAP ALUM 1UF 50V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1191-ND X CAP ALUM 100UF 35V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1179-ND X CAP ALUM 47UF 25V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1283-ND X CAP ALUM 47UF 50V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1176-ND X CAP ALUM 10UF 25V 20% RADIAL
2 X P1285-ND X CAP ALUM 220UF 50V 20% RADIAL
More powdered "bongwater".
Kinda hard to believe.Even with the NTE's that this amplifier worked and sounded pretty good. DC offset was around 5mv per channel adjusted down to zero +/-1mv.The +/-65 volts was around 62 volts and the bias was a little low ,but adjustable as was the +/-65vdc. The anodized pieces must have at least a 25 year coat of tar and nicotine. Lamps and colored boots were missing in action. Input atten. controls & knobs were missing and with a couple jumper wires in there place. Found a couple M-4 attenuators with knobs on ebay ( unbelieveable)..:scratch2:
Kinda hard to believe.Even with the NTE's that this amplifier worked and sounded pretty good. DC offset was around 5mv per channel adjusted down to zero +/-1mv.The +/-65 volts was around 62 volts and the bias was a little low ,but adjustable as was the +/-65vdc. The anodized pieces must have at least a 25 year coat of tar and nicotine. Lamps and colored boots were missing in action. Input atten. controls & knobs were missing and with a couple jumper wires in there place. Found a couple M-4 attenuators with knobs on ebay ( unbelieveable)..:scratch2:Attachments
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All cleaned up and mostly reassembled.All adjustments dialed in-"dead nuts on"-.Just have to come up with a fix for the lamps.I don't want to do LED on this unit.Thinking about colored filters between the lamps and buttons.Will see how that works out.
I have some 27,000µf CDE caps on order fron digikey yet to install.
I have some 27,000µf CDE caps on order fron digikey yet to install.
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bmanone
Active Member
Avionic
I used the CDE 27000uf for my M-4 re-cap as well, they’re the right diameter but an inch or so shorter than the original 15000uf caps. About a week after I finish the re-work I notice that every once and awhile I’d get some high frequency dropouts when playing music. I fixed the problem by cleaning/polishing the contacts on relay RY601 and RY602. The M-4 is a great amp.
Barry
I used the CDE 27000uf for my M-4 re-cap as well, they’re the right diameter but an inch or so shorter than the original 15000uf caps. About a week after I finish the re-work I notice that every once and awhile I’d get some high frequency dropouts when playing music. I fixed the problem by cleaning/polishing the contacts on relay RY601 and RY602. The M-4 is a great amp.
Barry
