Best refinishing oil for Pioneer oiled Walnut cabs...
- Thread starter Hopeou812
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Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Nothing to add to that.
virii01
mayor
Fine steel wool (#000) will only lightly touch the surface. Hairline scratches and hazing can be removed with it. After that, wipe down and apply the aforementioned product and see your results. If you're worried try a small spot in a less noticeable area first.
Howard's Restora Finish is used by a lot of people when the need is simply to blend in scratches and refresh the finish. It works wonders with very little effort. It can be used with fine steel wool to remove minor scratches and surface blemishes. Howard's Wax would go on after that. You can also use what Pioneer probably used......BLO. Boiled linseed oil. I use BLO thinned about 50% with mineral spirits or turpentine on wartime surplus rifle stocks.
BLO MUST be allowed to dry completely before applying another coat. I usually put 2-3 coats on and follow each coat with polishing with a soft cloth. BLO seems to leave a softer less glossy finish than other "oil" finishes most of which contain at least some varnish.
Don Bocadill
Obsessed, who me???!!
Nice looking speakers Zonker!!
Don Bocadill
Obsessed, who me???!!
I just refinished my AR3a's with a mix of medium and dark walnut Danish oil today, they look spectacular!
TobascoKid
Active Member
The first oil finishes happened by accident. It was way back in the days of feudal castles. The first oak interior trim was left unfinished. As time passed the wood began to take on a rich color from the gases and grease coming from cooking pots hung over a fire. This eventually resulted in beautiful, colorful, and protective finishes.
Now it’s an ambitious project. It uses applications of hot linseed oil with each application rubbed into the wood then allowed to dry. It is well worth the time, patience, and the endless rubbing. It takes months. The advantage between an oil finish and other finishes is that the oil finish is in the wood and not on it.
The centuries old procedure is to brush on a 50-50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine then allow it to dry about an hour then wipe off the excess. Repeat the process every day or two until four or more coats of oil have been applied. From time to time, over a period of months and even years, the oiling process can be repeated to renew and preserve.
Another way is to mix boiled linseed oil to pure turpentine in the proportions of 2 parts oil to 1 part turpentine. This mixture can be applied hot or cold. The hot mixture will set faster.
You want to start with glassy smooth wood using 5/0 garnet sandpaper. Wipe it with a clean, moist, cloth then allowed to dry. Then use sandpaper or 00-grade steel wool to remove any small whiskers that have been raised by the moist cloth.
To rub, I like to use the heel of my hand. I keep rubbing until the oil has been absorbed then add more. I repeat until I feel that the wood can absorb no more.
If you want the finish darker then add a little dark red oil stain into the rubbing oil.
For a higher gloss, the surface can be rubbed down with FFF pumice and rubbing oil. For even higher gloss, follow up a few days later with a rottenstone and oil rub.
Good luck.
Now it’s an ambitious project. It uses applications of hot linseed oil with each application rubbed into the wood then allowed to dry. It is well worth the time, patience, and the endless rubbing. It takes months. The advantage between an oil finish and other finishes is that the oil finish is in the wood and not on it.
The centuries old procedure is to brush on a 50-50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine then allow it to dry about an hour then wipe off the excess. Repeat the process every day or two until four or more coats of oil have been applied. From time to time, over a period of months and even years, the oiling process can be repeated to renew and preserve.
Another way is to mix boiled linseed oil to pure turpentine in the proportions of 2 parts oil to 1 part turpentine. This mixture can be applied hot or cold. The hot mixture will set faster.
You want to start with glassy smooth wood using 5/0 garnet sandpaper. Wipe it with a clean, moist, cloth then allowed to dry. Then use sandpaper or 00-grade steel wool to remove any small whiskers that have been raised by the moist cloth.
To rub, I like to use the heel of my hand. I keep rubbing until the oil has been absorbed then add more. I repeat until I feel that the wood can absorb no more.
If you want the finish darker then add a little dark red oil stain into the rubbing oil.
For a higher gloss, the surface can be rubbed down with FFF pumice and rubbing oil. For even higher gloss, follow up a few days later with a rottenstone and oil rub.
Good luck.
superdog
AK Member
So with the Howards Feed n Wax method you scuff with #000 steel wool and then hit it with the HfW? I have a set of HPM 100s that I believe that is all they need.The wood is in very good shape but there is a whitish film sort of that I believe to be an aged finish of some sort.That's why I think I need the steel wool treatment first.
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Sometimes using an oil like Old English over a surface can cause a whitish coloration in the grain but if yours have whitish stains on just parts of the surface you could have either heat or water stains. Some times Howards restora Finish will remove these stains. I've had to resort to scraping to remove some stains. I use a single edge razor blade held at almost a 90 degree angle to the surface and scrape gently. This is a last resort but has worked very well for me. A little BLO usually returns the wood to the original color.
Howards wax goes on after all other refinishing is done.
Howards wax goes on after all other refinishing is done.
Zonker92
All shiny and chrome
Good stuff in this thread!
Thanks for the props on the tung oil; I'm sorry I didn't check back on this thread sooner. I believe the brand I used on the Valencias was McCloskey's (sp?). Right now I'm using some from Minwax I think (see my recent JBL L20T thread).
I have heard that modern tung oil is not "true" tung oil, but I have no idea what that means, exactly.
Thanks for the props on the tung oil; I'm sorry I didn't check back on this thread sooner. I believe the brand I used on the Valencias was McCloskey's (sp?). Right now I'm using some from Minwax I think (see my recent JBL L20T thread).
I have heard that modern tung oil is not "true" tung oil, but I have no idea what that means, exactly.
