Correct stain for a SX 1010

G

geph0007

AK Member
Subscriber
If I was going to restain the top of the cabinet of an SX 1010 what should I use?? I know the sides are fine and I believe they are walnut??? The top seems different. I think I have used pecan before on another ubnit and it looked very good.
Thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
Don't jump into staining so quick. Howard's products are a simple solution when paired with some spot repair advise. PM me if you need a walk through. (Busy now but have done other post concerning this.) Walnut is so easy to do a quick "resto to perfect" on it isn't even funny. If you want to just cut to the chase and refinish...still Howard's Products for "easy and easily repairable" in the future.
 
If that receiver has real wood veneer, I would use General Finishes Seal-A-Cell clear on it. It is a clear stain that brings out the natural beauty and grain pattern in wood. Simply sand with fine grit paper to get the finish off and wipe on. Once dry, just finish with the polyurethane of your choice and it will look as good as new. I just refinished my SX-950 and a pair of CS-77s this way. They look just as good, if not better, than new.
 
The color is thin on top You can light areas of the wood No damage just looks worn and thin like the stain was worn off .
 
Personally, I'd avoid any kind of sealer (like polyurethane, shellac, etc.) on these enclosures. The OEM did not seal them, and as a result it is fairly easy to restore them. A little cleaning and care will continue that for a few more decades. Paste furniture wax can be used as a final protective coat since it can be stripped clean without using aggressive chemicals or mechanical removal (sanding) that may permanently damage the veneer.

If there is no damage to the surface, applying an oil that is compatible with the glues and stain should be safe, and still allows future reconditioning without stripping off any sealers. Any mineral oil based furniture oil should be satisfactory. If the surface is UV bleached, dry, or dirty, the oil will penetrate and CAN even up the color. Even if the surface is dirty from embedded dust, the oil will not prevent successful cleaning in the future to remove the dirt, and may actually help in cleaning. Again, the mineral oil will not interfere with future refinishing efforts. Other types of oils MAY cause problems in the future.

For complete refinishing, a penetrating oil stain made for wiping is best, even if the Peoples' Republik of Kalifornica thinks it is unsafe. Water-based stains and non-wiping stains are great for spraying on in a furniture factory (maybe) where they will eventually be top-coated with a urethane clear and shipped to WalMart, but they're not so great for refinishing. Carver-Tripp oil stains are great for this purpose, and many other reputable manufacturers have similar products, and have for the last century or so.
 
Boiled Linseed oil works great and is very forgiving. Wipe on, let it sit for a couple of minutes and wipe the excess off- let dry overnite. It soaks into the wood and polymerizes.
 
BINGO.....Watco Danish Oil is your finish... get some 220 grit sandpaper and "lightly" go with the grain, when done wipe off all the ground up veneer with a sponge or a wet paper towel, then add three coats of Danish Oil, I use this process on every receiver I work on...it's GOLD!
 
Linseed oil is great for preserving the blue finish, even if it does tend to get a little gummy after a while. A bolt action probably wouldn't care much.
 
If it's as you say two coats of natural Watco and call it done! Let the first coat sit for a bit and wipe...second coat same. (Less is more and don't be tempted to treat it thinking the more millage the better....wrong.)
 
I'm the same with wood and restoration of pretty much all types of surfaces. Did restoration work for many years and it all turned somewhat "easy"....except for the elbow grease! (Electronics....kills me to be so "novice" after being so not.)
When it come to restoring a project's cosmetics the size of a receiver....products to fix 5 different scenarios can fit in a five gallon bucket. (Explaining each simple process can take a 10 gallon bucket so it is only a good thing that a KISS approach does wonders for most receiver case projects....it can be as simple as one can.)
 
Last edited:
chris35745 said:
If that receiver has real wood veneer, I would use General Finishes Seal-A-Cell clear on it. It is a clear stain that brings out the natural beauty and grain pattern in wood. Simply sand with fine grit paper to get the finish off and wipe on. Once dry, just finish with the polyurethane of your choice and it will look as good as new. I just refinished my SX-950 and a pair of CS-77s this way. They look just as good, if not better, than new.
Click to expand...

Don't use polyurethane or any kind of varnish. Stain, then oil it. Only stain if needed. Otherwise, just oil.
If you sand it be careful, it is not hard to sand through the veneer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom