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Why is everyone so against electrolytic caps in crossovers?

But...the main point of the thread was that maybe a "better" cap is not better when used in the original design that did not have the supposed better caps.:scratch2:

This is different in ways I guess, but I've seen on numerous car forums where people always think they're "upgrading" from the factory with different parts. Take my Jeep Wrangler for instance, when the radiator in mine took a dump I decided to search the internet about replacements. The amount of threads I read where people thought the factory radiator was insufficient and decided to go with a 3 core or whatever, all metal instead of the plastic tank, lower thermostat etc, and very often those people were wondering why their Jeeps over heated.

I used some very simple logic when I redid my cooling system. If the Jeep didn't over heat when it was new, then clearly the OEM parts work, and work great. I bought an OEM style single core, plastic tank radiator and used the OEM temperature thermostat, and my Jeep runs as cool as the day it came off the assembly floor 13 years ago.

Not always, but often times the factory made stuff works as intended and "upgrades" are not always upgrades. I guess it's human nature to want/think you can always improve something.

I understand the point,
However even if there were little difference in the sound, the poly caps are superior in terms of longevity over the electrolytic counterpart.
So if one believes its time to recap the crossover, you might as well go with the poly caps. As one mentioned earlier, the selection of lytics is out of cost more than anything else.
 
I understand the point,
However even if there were little difference in the sound, the poly caps are of superior in terms of longevity over the electrolytic counterpart.
So if one believes its time to recap the crossover, you might as well go with the poly caps. As one mentioned earlier, the selection of lytics is out of cost more than anything else.

When I consider the cost of electrolytic caps versus the cost of boutique poly caps, and then I consider that electrolytic caps replaced today will most likely not be 'bad' prior to my death some 30 to 40 years from now, I'm not swayed by that argument. Indeed, from a purely cost-effectiveness point of view, the opposite of your statement is the true one.
 
Listen to a given speaker recapped one way, then listen to it recapped another. In a stereo set, you could do one and leave the other alone, or change both to brands/types X and Y and see which one you prefer.

Tough stuff, depending on one's own ears and preferences. I realize it must sound insane.

I hate that line, really. In my opinion, that's not how life works, it's not how science works.

In the short time frame of an a/b test, or the short time frame of an individual listening session, our judgment is insufficient to make a fully informed choice.
 
I hate that line, really. In my opinion, that's not how life works, it's not how science works.

In the short time frame of an a/b test, or the short time frame of an individual listening session, our judgment is insufficient to make a fully informed choice.

That's probably true, that's why I'll replace electrolytics with electrolytics from here on out, like I did with my DCM TW3's.
 
My network mods have subjectively made monsters out of my simple Klipsch Forte's in contrast to the stock Forte sound. And its nothing subtle.


I can attest to that in my personal upgrading of my Forte XOs which BTW was done because of SET12's work :D

If some people want to believe the changes are subtle or nuanced or even psychological... All I can say is they haven't heard it

And I aint going to argue with them
 
I can attest to that in my personal upgrading of my Forte XOs which BTW was done because of SET12's work :D

If some people want to believe the changes are subtle or nuanced or even psychological... All I can say is they haven't heard it

And I aint going to argue with them
Are you saying that you are experienced? :D
 
I can attest to that in my personal upgrading of my Forte XOs which BTW was done because of SET12's work :D

If some people want to believe the changes are subtle or nuanced or even psychological... All I can say is they haven't heard it

And I aint going to argue with them

I'm not saying that, I'm saying "improvements" are a crap shoot at best, if one just decides to replace parts with what they perceive as better parts. Even undeniable better parts (in whatever way they are better) do not guarantee improved sound quality on any given speaker.
 
Just revealing my experiences with a pair of Forte - That is all

Have listened to the same pair in this metamorphosis :D

1) 100% stock

2) With Crites XO boards

3) Crites XO with titanium tweets

4) Titanium tweets and personalized XO spanning 1 yr of evolution ending with Mundorf silver/oil capacitors , Solen Hepta-litz Air Cored Inductors 12 AWG , Duelund Carbon/Silver Resistor & Crites Transformer

5) All of #4 and titanium mids


End results = Night & day difference. Not even close
 
I'm not saying that, I'm saying "improvements" are a crap shoot at best, if one just decides to replace parts with what they perceive as better parts. Even undeniable better parts (in whatever way they are better) do not guarantee improved sound quality on any given speaker.

Like mounting some top-tier JBL woofers in my W90's? :scratch2:
 
Like mounting some top-tier JBL woofers in my W90's? :scratch2:


Yeah, that'd be an example. "Better" woofers do not necessarily perform better in all cabinets and crossovers. In fact, you have a better chance of fail in the scenario.:yes:
 
Changing drivers is changing the design parameters, It's a far cry from changing passives for like values.

Edit:When you change drivers, the crossover needs to be re-designed. The crossovers are designed with the specs and behaviours of the drivers and cab in mind.
 
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I hate that line, really. In my opinion, that's not how life works, it's not how science works.

In the short time frame of an a/b test, or the short time frame of an individual listening session, our judgment is insufficient to make a fully informed choice.

This is where we must disagree. One can test and prove many things scientifically. What you can NEVER prove is 'do you like it' questions.

I can sample two drinks and tell you which one I prefer. Science cannot prove that I like one more than another. "I like A better than B!" "No, you do NOT, you like B better than A and science can prove it!"

Our judgment is not only sufficient to make a CHOICE, it's the only real basis for doing so. That the choice is 'fully informed' or not means nothing.

I can be 'fully informed' about why I should prefer A over B and still find that I prefer B over A. That's life, and science has nothing to do with it.

Science is my guide. It does not dictate my likes and dislikes. It makes a great teacher and poor master.
 
This is where we must disagree. One can test and prove many things scientifically. What you can NEVER prove is 'do you like it' questions.

I can sample two drinks and tell you which one I prefer. Science cannot prove that I like one more than another. "I like A better than B!" "No, you do NOT, you like B better than A and science can prove it!"

Our judgment is not only sufficient to make a CHOICE, it's the only real basis for doing so. That the choice is 'fully informed' or not means nothing.

I can be 'fully informed' about why I should prefer A over B and still find that I prefer B over A. That's life, and science has nothing to do with it.

Science is my guide. It does not dictate my likes and dislikes. It makes a great teacher and poor master.

Science could tell you what's in the drink, so you have more insight into your preferences. It could tell you why you don't like a drink - and it's been done fairly often to track down why a drink has an unpleasant taste to it.

The analogy to audio is obvious.
 
Science could tell you what's in the drink, so you have more insight into your preferences. It could tell you why you don't like a drink - and it's been done fairly often to track down why a drink has an unpleasant taste to it.

The analogy to audio is obvious.

I don't need insight into my preferences. I simply have them.
 
I can attest to that in my personal upgrading of my Forte XOs which BTW was done because of SET12's work :D

If some people want to believe the changes are subtle or nuanced or even psychological... All I can say is they haven't heard it

And I aint going to argue with them

Don't blame you Frank! Though I certainly can relate to some of the comments.

Are you saying that you are experienced? :D
:D You know one of my favorite recordings is "Electric Ladyland" The Jimi Hendrix Experience cut 12. I once had a Recording Engineer at my home tell me that he's heard the recording perhaps a hundred times on many system's but he had never heard like he heard from these extreme Forte's.

All I can say is, I must be doing something right!

I'm not saying that, I'm saying "improvements" are a crap shoot at best, if one just decides to replace parts with what they perceive as better parts. Even undeniable better parts (in whatever way they are better) do not guarantee improved sound quality on any given speaker.

Here's where I agree with you 100%.

For me its what's certainly called better parts.

Taking the inductors more seriously, in every case I have had the experience to listen to they very well were a substantial improvement.

In my own networks which are easy to audition parts with, every componet had a signature.

I was lucky to have a borrowed stock pair of Forte's. That certainly said a lot in the contrast. The owner of which thanked me. I asked what for? He said all I have to do is buy the parts.

Hearing for a few others was all it took and they followed suit as well. BTW none have even remotely though of going back to what they had before.



Changing drivers is changing the design parameters, It's a far cry from changing passives for like values.

Edit:When you change drivers, the crossover needs to be re-designed. The crossovers are designed with the specs and behaviors of the drivers and cab in mind.

These are very simple networks.

I also might add that according ALK a supplier of Klipsch after market networks and drivers and also an Engineer specializing in filter design has said that many of the Klipsch networks especially the Heritage series networks are not electrically correct and rightly so.

When I say not electrically correct, I mean not a constant impedance, he likes to point out that many of the Klipsch tweeter networks are wrong as well. But many owners are perfectly happy with them.

I just learned that Paul Klipsch liked the mid range to have a high impedance. He said it produced a lower distortion level. When I say high an Autotransformer reflects back an impedance that is the turns ratio squared x the drivers impedance. This can be as much as 100 ohm's.

There is an advantage here with a 100 ohm impedance in that it allows a small value coupling cap to be used, in my case a 1uf cap vs an ALK network that might have to use 40-50uf. The 1 uf allowed me to purchase a subjectively high value cap if you believe in this sort of thing. The Duelund 1 uf Copper VSF is about $150 each I have had them for a few yrs now. For me it has been one of the finest caps I have ever heard.

Typically the mid's and tweeter's have diaphragms that are changed and these parts are often common for several of the Klipsch models. The motor assemblies are also common.

I have used a number of Mr Crites after market products with great success. He pretty much stays true to Klipsch philosophy and offers a great service to Klipsch owners. He does a considerable amount of research and testing before he releases anything.

I have even use the factory Klipsch mid diaphragm's which are factory approved for many of their speakers they just drop right in the same motor assembly.

Many of the Klipsch speakers even have the same spl/watt and use the same tweeter network design.

I have had a great time working with the networks and a level of satisfaction from a speaker that I have never had with any other and some of those were pretty expensive. Once more the satisfaction is so high that I can listen to 10 and $20,000 loudspeakers and not have a lust for.

I hate that line, really. In my opinion, that's not how life works, it's not how science works.

In the short time frame of an a/b test, or the short time frame of an individual listening session, our judgment is insufficient to make a fully informed choice.

I basically totally agree with this when talking about subtleties. But sometimes things are not so subtle, I've had to many people in aw...

Back to caps,

One of the best electrolytic caps I have ever used is Muse, I must say I feel they are a cut above other electrolytic caps. They remind me of very good film caps. Some people have said that Muse is the only electrolytic that sounds good in a signal path.

Though I'm not using them this way.

In my CDP I increased my analog sections power capacitance with multiple small Muse caps from 2820uf's stock to 22,000 Muse. The CDP over all uses a mix of new Panasonic and Muse caps I went from 16,000uf to 110,000uf I did this for my Burson Discrete Op Amp modules which uses about 120 ma vs the IC Op Amp's that use about 20 ma total. I also did a few other modifications to this vintage $2000 Sony X77ES 40lb player. I had few friends with $10,000 CDP's feeling a little left behind so I decided to try and give them a run for their money the results were very, very, good.

Here's a link to the thread if you care to look http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185971&page=5

SET12
 
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When I consider the cost of electrolytic caps versus the cost of boutique poly caps, and then

But I'm not talking about high priced boutique caps.
Quality film caps can be had without shelling out the big boutique price.

I consider that electrolytic caps replaced today will most likely not be 'bad' prior to my death some 30 to 40 years from now, I'm not swayed by that argument. Indeed, from a purely cost-effectiveness point of view, the opposite of your statement is the true one.

First off, I'm not trying to talk you into anything, buy what you want.
Just because you're not swayed doesn't necessarily mean I'm making a false statement.

My point is that since film caps can be had at a reasonable price,
it makes sense to use them while you're going to the task of switching them out.
If there were indeed no advantages to them, you wouldn't see respected technicians on this board
using them in place of lytics, in various parts of receivers, amps, ect.
 
Just FWIW:

My JBL 4430s have Mylar (polyester) caps bypassed with metallized polypropylene (MPP) bypass caps. I think when JBL engineered them, they were trying to save money by using Mylar caps, while improving their sound using the inexpensive bypass caps. I am very curious to learn whether a capacitor upgrade would be beneficial although, frankly, I already think the 4430s sound fantastic. I just can't help tinkering. (As I tell my friends, "it's called a hobby.")

My thought is to build new boards using medium-priced MPP caps (maybe Clarity Caps or Sonicaps) with no bypass caps, and new Mills resistors and new coils. The new boards would be plug and play so I could simply swap them out in place of the old boards. The stock L pad and rheostat should plug right into the new board.

I would pay attention to issues like DCR to make keep all the curves and attenuation the same. I would probably charge-couple the horn circuit, but maybe not the woofer circuit. (The cap costs skyrocket with charge-coupling.)

It could be interesting being able to switch them back and forth, although it would probably take about fifteen minutes to make each switch. Will I hear a difference? If I do, will it be all in my head? Will it be better or worse?

I'll probably post a thread on it, if and when I do this.
 
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But I'm not talking about high priced boutique caps.
Quality film caps can be had without shelling out the big boutique price.

OK, let's talk about prices, then. I have been buying mine at Parts Express. Recent purchase:


4.0uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor Part Number: 027-330 4 @ $0.44 = $1.76

12uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor Part Number: 027-342 4@ $0.65 = $2.60

So what are we talking about with regard to 'quality film caps'?

First off, I'm not trying to talk you into anything, buy what you want.
Just because you're not swayed doesn't necessarily mean I'm making a false statement.

Well, not true for me, then. Better? :)

My point is that since film caps can be had at a reasonable price,
it makes sense to use them while you're going to the task of switching them out.

Eh, again, I can't agree. It 'makes sense' if two things are true.

1) They last longer than electrolytic AND I am going to live long enough to have to replace electrolytic capacitors a second time.

2) They don't change the sound. Presuming they *do* change the sound, then we're into that whole 'will the new sound be better or worse' thing.

If there were indeed no advantages to them, you wouldn't see respected technicians on this board
using them in place of lytics, in various parts of receivers, amps, ect.

Sure I would. I see respected people doing all kinds of things that don't make sense for me, and which may not be necessary. I know many good and highly qualified techs will put any kind of fancy caps a person wants into a receiver or amp if that's what the customer wants.

In any case, I have not argued that there are no advantages to them. I refuted your point that it made economic sense to replace electrolytic caps in speaker crossovers with other types, since the other types last longer. They do last longer; but I won't live long enough to need to replace electrolytic caps a second time, so that's just not a good argument.
 
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OK, let's talk about prices, then. I have been buying mine at Parts Express. Recent purchase:


4.0uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor Part Number: 027-330 4 @ $0.44 = $1.76

12uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor Part Number: 027-342 4@ $0.65 = $2.60

So what are we talking about with regard to 'quality film caps'?

I bought a few from Erse recently and they were reasonably priced. They don't seem to have 4uF MPP caps though. Not seeing many MPP caps in 4uF and 12uF values.

12uF 250V Pulse-X at $4.57 each

4.uF 400V Solen Fast Cap at Madisound at $3.05 each

I usually stick with the less expensive MPP caps, such as Solen, Erse, Audyn Q4. For electrolytic I have been going with Mundorf and Erse.
 
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