Kenwood Model 11

Raiko

Active Member
I just picked up a nasty (dirty) looking Kenwood Model Eleven at a garage sale for $3. I was trying to remove the face plate to clean it but it appears that the tuning knob is held on with two allen type (hex) screws. I have an allen wrench set but none fit it. Does anyone know if these are metric? I suppose they might be since they were made in Japan. May have to make a run to the Tool store but wanted to make sure before I buy a metric set.
Thanks.
 
Thanks EW. I went and got a metric set and got the faceplate off. Unfortunately it looks like one of the boards inside is fried so no powerup. Pretty cool looking receiver once it's cleaned up though. I'll take a nudie of it and post it and maybe you guys can tell me if it's worth fixing. Otherwise I guess I'll part it out.
 
Take a look on the back of the receiver... it'll state one three different series... I, II, III

The different series number corresponds with how many WPC it has.

Scott
 
There is no number on the back. It just says "Eleven". I've seen pictures of the tags on the back for the Eleven II, the Eleven III and the Eleven G but mine has no number so I suppose it's a 1? Below is a picture of what it looked like when I started cleaning it. It actually looked worse but I had cleaned part of it already just to see if the gunk would even come off before I really got into it. It pretty much all came off. Missing a few knobs and the wood case will need some work as well. But, hey, what do you want for $3.

The other photos are of the circuit board that appears to have had a heat issue. Not sure what this board is for or why it happened. Any ideas on what this is, why it might have burned, and, is it fixable?

Thanks.

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That looks very simular to the one i have,(i just posted a thread about warped meter indicators on it),http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=115058
But mine is a kr-11000gx,but it looks entirely different inside than yours..I still have not even found out the true watt rating of mine either,good luck!,I have found that the kenwood series has power supply problems,the board you show looks familar with one that i found with a leaky zener diode, and a open regulator,which would not allow the tuner section to function,and the leaky zener would not allow it to come out of protect,2 different problems at once..(i do think it was a kr-7600).
 
I have found that the kenwood series has power supply problems,
They all have power supply problems (regulated supply, to be specific), not just Kenwood.

Raiko, what you see is par for the course on 70's gear. On a few amps and receivers, I've mounted either ceramic 'hollow tube' resistors in ther place (which shed heat quickly), or actually mounted remote aluminum resistors on an empty spot of chassis nearby. But, what you've got really doesn't look that bad.
 
I have a Model Eleven series two waiting to go in for repair.
I purchased mine as part of a package deal and ended up
paying 40 bucks for it.

Purchased from the original owner (a business associate) I was fortunate to get the owners manual, all tags and sales brochure as well. His wife was cleaning and she was going to throw it out! Luckily for me I had mentioned to him I was a collector so he saved it for me.

The owner told me he had to rebuild the timer and that the
unit worked. Well sort of. It powers up,some fuzzy sound comes out of
both channels, then it "pops" loudly, more fuzzy sound.
This is my one and only Kenwood and this thing as you know is a BEAST.
I looks awesome when lit up and it is BIG. Well worth fixing IMO.


Now if I can just find a place for it after I get it back...
 
EW: Yes, it seems strange that they would mount those resistors that close to the caps. I figured the resistors probably get pretty hot. It doesn't appear as though anything "burned up" but rather everything in the vicinity of those two resistors just got very hot from the heat they were putting out. Then again, I suppose a problem elsewhere could have caused the excessive resistor heat.
The fuse in the unit is not blown though either.

I guess I'll pull that board out and see if I can fix it. I'll replace the caps and use the hollow tube resistors. Thanks for the info.

Wiseguy: I'll check out that thread. Thx.
 
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