Fisher X-100-A = Fisher KX-90 = ?

darko

... and never give up!
Hello,

Iam confused with all the Modell Numbers.

My new Fisher X-100-A / Serial: 64333E


What Modell is this? Is it a X-100-A, or KX-90, or ??

I found Shematics for the Modell's X100, X100A, X101 abd X202, but not one match.
He is the one with EL84/7189 (Original Fisher).





Question: Is it possible to resolder the Main Power Supply, for 220V ?
 
do You mean Self-made-Kit's, like Dynaco Kit's ?

My X-100-A looks like a KX-90, but is more like the X-100 with rectifier Diodes.
The first X-100 was with a GZ34.

Iam will komplete rebuild this very nice Unit. Herefore Iam looking first for the RIGHT Shematics. All what is found, is a bit different to the mine one.






:)
 
Not sure what "Self-made-kit's" means. Fisher, Scott, Heath-Kit, EICO and many others had kits that the consumer could assemble. If the directions were followed properly, the result was a very nice item. For that matter, kits cost HH Scott more than the factory assembled items.

If assembled by the directions, the item could be very nice. I have gotten some Scott kits that were a disaster. I literally disassembled the entire kit and built it up from scratch. For that matter, I am listening to it right now! An LK-72 Scott (with the brown face plate).
 
It's an X-100-A. If you have a schematic for an X-100-A, it should be correct.

How is the schematic not correct?
 
The OPTs have 4-8-16 in the X-100-A Shematic.
Mine has "only" 8 and 16 Ohm Screws.

Maybe the Shematic is wrong - I cant say for shure.
Have only this one. Nothing to compare.


BTW - The Underhood is beatifull clean and have a lot of spare Place.
The Opposite is my Fisher 400 and the Pioneer SM-83.

I chekd' all the Tubes with a old EMC 213. Its more like a Sony Playstation V.0.2
But, it does read :) I can compare all 7189 Output Tubes and the 4 12AX7.

Should the Rectifier Diodes left, or better be replaced with 1N400x ?
The Big CanCap's are for shure to dry. I got some fine Nichicon's for this Job.
The other Caps are German made. I would like to replace them all with P716.
They have a grat Job done in the Fisher 400.

One Thing I recognize at the first Impressions-Look, one OPT is a bit thicker, with silver Screws.
The lefthand One is a bit thinner, with black Screws tightened. Nice Surprize :-/

Best Regards,
Darko
 
The singing Fisher!

Its alive, sounding pretty good.


Yesterdy Evening, I cooked the new Nichicon Cap.
Today I have replaced the 2,2k - 3W Resistor on the Nichicon +Leg.
He was open. Good looking Bast..d with no Function.

Ok, lets go:
I took two 4,3k 5W parallel - was then 2,05kOhm.
A new 270uF100V Cap (was 200uF70V -one Section of the Can Cap)

On 117V nothing comes on. I took a Inverter 12AX7 out, to measure
directly on the Socket - AND - crack, noising, Statics - Heureka!
The Voltage was Ways to low. I decide to go up more with Supply Voltage.

At 158VAC, light Cranking Sound is comming out of the Fullrange Speakers.
( Cheap One, but nice ) - Then, the EL84's began to slightly glowing.

Ok, thats the Way I say and push the Fisher X-100-A up to 200VAC.
Surprizingly good Voice of Mrs. Krall jump then in my Face(...).

Oh Boy, never see a US Fisher to work with Europe Voltage 220V.
Then after reading alot, I found that there was a 110/220V Power Transformer existing around. That was the Mystery. Its a 220V Unit..

Resumee:
1. good looking Resistors can be bad working Ones
2. old looking Tubes must not be good working Ones - Thank You Tubetester
3. Stay cool, when Nothing is happen'd
4. Let the Unit eeeeaaasy comming up - dont push (dry Caps)
5. Make all Switches and Sliders mechanical good working BEFORE testing
6. Drink NOT Alcohol while operating at over 400VOLTS!!!

8. and most important - ask Audiokarma first and read alot!

Thank You Guys for the friendly Way.

:thmbsp:

Darko
 
Its alive, sounding pretty good.



6. Drink NOT Alcohol while operating at over 400VOLTS!!!

Cool, I'm glad you got her working. :thmbsp: Yeah, I'd definitely save the alcohol for AFTER working on it, if I were you. :D
 
Hi Spaceman,

if Iam would be I, then I never would drink.

:D


Todays newest Update's:

- replaced the one big uggly Cap with black Cover,
with a brand new BC Philips 220/385V instead 200/250V.
The Measuring Value was pretty bad - 20-60uF, oscilating up/down.
Great "Pass-Trough" :sigh:

- all EROFOILS replaced with orange Drops from Sprague - 716P / 600V Types.
Measuring Values not bad, but all a bit to high, 20-30%

Soundwise it seems a bit more "colder", maybe crisper, but You know.
Strange Thing this is, Psychoaccoustical are not predictive.

The OPT are different too, like I say before.

The "smaller" is the T11xxxxx4-2B.
The "wider" is the T11xxxxx4-1B.

If I found someday or the one or other, I catch them for sure.

:yes:

BTW, I decide to connect more sophisticated Loudspeakers.
I replce the Fullrange / without Case / - with Dynaudio's Beasts.
Its funny - They are great Speaker, with clear and powerfull OverAll Range,-
but- they need a lot more of Power to drive them well. 2x17WRMS are
for sure nut enough. Ok, its clear to say, that I need the Dynaudio parallel
with Yamahas NS-1000m for comparing the Amps and the whole Chain.

So wide - so good - Lets take a few deep Breaths in the fresh Autumn Air!
Weekend is here!
 
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