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Recapping the 1060 recaps

S

Shakey Jakey

New Member
I have used the search function and have seen that quite a few of you have recapped and upgraded the 1060 integrated. I have a nice example of one that I would like to go thru and do it all in one fell swoop. What caps fit in the holders, transisters that should be replaced, improvements that can be made while in the process. I have a service manual but understand it contains mistakes, what are they? It's all here but fragmented. Could we bring it all together in one thread? Thanks.
 
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Well I guess it's okay to say now since its over, but that was my auction, so if you want to ask any particular questions, fire away and I will let you know what I did!
 
One thing to mention - I took my personal 1060 one step further and replaced the signal path capacitors with Nichicon Fine Gold and Elna Silmic II's from Handmade Electronics.

I replaced 8 transistors, all mylar caps, all electrolytic caps. Besides the signal path caps I replaced the others with Panasonic FC, and for the coupling caps I used Nichicon KMH I believe but I would have to check my Digikey order history to give you exact part numbers...

In mine I also replaced the coupling caps C701 and C702 on the power amp board with panasonic metal polypropylene caps from digikey.

I use it every day in my office system paired with Yamaha NS-690II and it sounds very sweet!

I found that the warm tone of the Silmic II's matches the stock voicing of the 1060 very well, it doesnt make it too "analytical" which is what I was afraid new caps might do. The film caps brought out the detail and the new transistors quieted it down.
 
When I go into Digikey...I get lost! It doesnt seem like you can replace any cap exactly as it was originally. For the first timer it gets very intimidating very quickly. Of course after you do your first one it can be made to sound rather simple, but I'm not to that point yet. Then to make matters worse you get into all this "replace this type with this type" business. Clear as mud!
 
I also have read something from Echowars about adding two caps in some way across two others to enhance the mids and highs. Whats that all about? How is that done? Mistakes in the service manual?
 
Well you cant go wrong getting the Panasonic FC capacitors from digikey. As a rule of thumb, always replace a capacitor with one of the same value in uF. Voltage should be at LEAST as high as the one you took out, but it wont hurt to be moderately higher either. Just don't go too high because the caps may be physically too large to fit in tight places.

Not an issue on the 1060, however, since there is plenty of room for capacitors.

I would be happy to help you recap your 1060 by steering you towards where I got the parts and which part numbers they were.

You would need to tell me what value of capacitor you are looking for, however, as I don't necessarily feel like taking the wooden and metal case off my 1060 and writing down a list of every capacitors value... sorry!

The ones EchoWars mentioned are called "bypass" caps. I added them to my 1060 as well. I use http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=QIF1izkZhqWbShkGw4NjpQ== from Mouser. I put one across each of the three large can-type capacitors in the 1060.

For the mylar/film caps (the boxy orange/brown ones) I use Panasonic metal poly caps from Digikey. They are the http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=PF2474-ND for the .47uf ones on the phono and driver amp boards and http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=PF2224-ND for the .22 ones on the tone control boards.
 
So, do you add the bypass caps on from underneith the board? And they are added to all 3 of the large caps? Also I take it that all the parts cannot be ordered from the same place. Dont many of them have minimum orders? One of the heatsinks had fallen off its component, I stuck it back on but shouldnt it have a special glue to hold it on?
 
In my quest for knowledge I have read that old resistors can be terribly out of spec. They also appear to be cheap and easy to replace. Anybody agree or disagree with this thought?
 
Shakey Jakey said:
So, do you add the bypass caps on from underneith the board?
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Yes, I did.
Shakey Jakey said:
And they are added to all 3 of the large caps?
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Thats what I did.
Shakey Jakey said:
Also I take it that all the parts cannot be ordered from the same place. Dont many of them have minimum orders?
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Mouser, no, Digikey Yes (although its only $15 which is easily reached when recapping a unit)
Shakey Jakey said:
One of the heatsinks had fallen off its component, I stuck it back on but shouldnt it have a special glue to hold it on?
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They call it heatsink paste or thermal paste. Make sure you get a kind that is NOT conductive. What component exactly are you referencing?
 
Shakey Jakey said:
In my quest for knowledge I have read that old resistors can be terribly out of spec. They also appear to be cheap and easy to replace. Anybody agree or disagree with this thought?
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The fusing resistors or resistors located near areas of intense heat drift out of spec faster than others. They are cheap and easy to replace but can change the sound of the unit depending on whether you use carbon of metal film.

Its been said carbon is warmer and metal film is quiter and more detailed, albeit a tad harsh. I guess it depends on what unit you are using them in and where.

I would test the resistor with a meter to see if it is indeed out of tolerance before blindly replacing them. It could be a time consuming and unnecessary process.
 
It seems there were 4 of the star shaped heatsinks and one had fallen off. So resistors should be checked and replaced on an individual basis? Resistors have a "sound"?
 
Shakey Jakey said:
It seems there were 4 of the star shaped heatsinks and one had fallen off. So resistors should be checked and replaced on an individual basis? Resistors have a "sound"?
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If they look burnt or are fusing resistors or in areas of high prolonged heat, I would check them for tolerance, otherwise I simply leave them alone. I feel any passive component that the signal travels through will impart some sonic characteristics... I think that is why choice of component is important when recapping.

Check out handmade electronics website, they offer some description of the "sound" of their parts.
 
xoaphexox said:
Well I guess it's okay to say now since its over, but that was my auction, so if you want to ask any particular questions, fire away and I will let you know what I did!
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Hah, why am I not surprised that auction was by someone here ;) I saw that in the closed items histroy and thought 'wow, I'd have liked to get that' especially since I'm really close to your location! Maybe if I do ever get a 1060 I'll be able to get some info from you. :) Do you do services for other people or just as a personal hobby? PM me if that's not to be discussed in an open thread.
 
Shakey Jakey said:
Can the resistor be accurately measured while still in the circuit?
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Sometimes you can, but its always best to unsolder one end of the resistor to get a valid reading.

If the resistor is not a fusing resistor and does not look heat damaged, its usually good to go.
 
Shakey Jakey said:
In my quest for knowledge I have read that old resistors can be terribly out of spec. They also appear to be cheap and easy to replace. Anybody agree or disagree with this thought?
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I make it a habit to go ahead and check resistor values when recapping. Most of the time, they are still within spec, but sometimes they go bad, and those I replace. Fusibles are the worst, and I just replace those, period. Old resistors that are drifting off spec can, it seems, add noise. The two times I've gone through and replaced resistors without replacing caps at the same time, the background seemed to get a little quieter after the resistors were replaced. Beyond that, a resistor actually failing (as happens sometimes with the fusible ones) can potentially lead to other, more expensive or hard-to-find components (perhaps transistors) failing.
 
One criticism...you can find caps of the same diameter as the originals to use for the power supply cap and the output caps so that they fit in the clamps without any 'filler'. Looks a lot better.

If the proper diameter cap can't be found, see if there's a way to mount the proper size clamp.
 
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