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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Russellc
Addicted Member
Yep, Ross, those drivers die off pretty fast and won't reach as high as needed. This has turning in to a community project for my nephew. See link below. Cheers.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=301990
EconoWave Delite 10e is now complete over at PE Tech Talk forum:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1647589#post1647589
We have now designed six EconoWave variants over there. They are each linked from Post #1 of that thread; click "First" at the top or bottom of any page in that thread to get there.... :thmbsp:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1647589#post1647589
We have now designed six EconoWave variants over there. They are each linked from Post #1 of that thread; click "First" at the top or bottom of any page in that thread to get there.... :thmbsp:
4343
Super Member
Looks to be one and the same... Plus I used the Maestro woofer with the E-Wave crossover and waveguide with good results. Compared to my 2235 it was lacking only in the lowest octave, and maybe even a little smoother through the crossover region.
I built test boxes the same volume as Maestro, because the original cabinets were long gone, so I'm guessing that the bass is as good as it gets with "only" a 10.
That's the way it works though, if you like the lows you get from that box, the highs will great as well with E-Wave...
I'm going to put the 10's back in as soon as I finish upgrading the second crossover. (I'm adding a switch to select High or Low sensitivity versions of STD E-Wave XO, it's a "test box" after all...)
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bwaslo
Active Member
OK, thanks, I'll to take a look at the Maestros. Haven't seen them yet, don't know what the condition of the woofers and cabinets are. They are said to play "fine", but that doesn't always mean the same thing to everybody!
From what I can find out, it looks like the QSC waveguides could fit in there, which is what I'm aiming for. There haven't been a lot of choices around here so far. If this doesn't pan out, I may be going up to Parts Express (about 15 minutes from here) and just getting some of their trapezoidal enclosure kits and some Dayton 12 inchers.
From what I can find out, it looks like the QSC waveguides could fit in there, which is what I'm aiming for. There haven't been a lot of choices around here so far. If this doesn't pan out, I may be going up to Parts Express (about 15 minutes from here) and just getting some of their trapezoidal enclosure kits and some Dayton 12 inchers.
J3 location accesses the split on the PC board.... :yes:
jackgiff
Well-Known Member
I apologize for not getting an answer to you sooner. I am just now getting back the vision in my left eye, so I have completely ignored the thread for the last month. Macular surgery sucks.
I used the standard 1.2 KHz low pass (1.5 Mh and 12 uF) and the woofer liked a 50 Ohm resistor across it. I used two 100 Ohm 25 Watt resistors in parallel.
The high pass is the standard <95 dB version.
The 2214 is a very nice woofer for a standard EconoWave. My friend Rick has just bought a pair of them for his next EconoWave project. Soon as my eye heals enough to get back on the saw, we will be underway.
Yes, the Advent Legacy uses the same woofer as the Maestro.
The Advent Legacy/Maestro woofer also bears a VERY STRONG resemblance (i.e, same exact cone and dustcap) as the Boston Acoustics A100 woofer...
No problem with 1.5KHz crossover. I have a pair of Maestro cabinets with good woofers, that I'm going to be E-waving at earliest convenience...
Regards,
Gordon.
Russellc
Addicted Member
Well, this is interesting news, I've seen lots of these later Advents, may be time to give one a try.
Russellc
Thanks for jumping in here Jack. Hope the eye gets better soon.
So you didn't use this crossover for the JBL LE14A woofer.....http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=151339&stc=1&d=1243017683
I am reading that you used the standard setup and just added the resistor.
"I used the standard 1.2 KHz low pass (1.5 Mh and 12 uF) and the woofer liked a 50 Ohm resistor across it."
I am new to this so please bear with me. Where in the circuit does the resistor go?
Thanks again and take care of that eye.
Pio1980
AK Member
Has anyone tried a Dynaco A-25 yet?
The Philips style tweeters in mine are good but one stamped basket woofer isn't, they are a rare variant with atypical (Peerless perhaps?) drivers. Therefore I don't consider them candidates but a pair of Bose 301s may succumb someday due to basically good woofer section.
The Philips style tweeters in mine are good but one stamped basket woofer isn't, they are a rare variant with atypical (Peerless perhaps?) drivers. Therefore I don't consider them candidates but a pair of Bose 301s may succumb someday due to basically good woofer section.
jackgiff
Well-Known Member
The standard <95 dB crossover is the one used, not the one for LE14A's. In this crossover, the 12 uF cap is in parallel with the woofer. The resistor is then hooked in parallel with the woofer and the 12 uF capacitor. It can be connected directly across the woofer terminals, or as in the case of my set, across the 12 uF cap on the crossover board. The resistor needs to be at least 40 watts, if I remember JBL's advice correctly.
Yes to both.
It's Seas in the Dynaco, no? We earlier suggested that woofer would do quite well making bass in a larger closed box. In the stock cab, I have a constant-directivity tweeter option on deck here among several Venerable Vintage projects....
Pio1980
AK Member
BTW, the woofer prob is sagged/wilted compliance spider on one woof only, rendering it somewhat unstable even after flipping the woof. The SEAS woofer I e-bayed as a replacement also had a sagged spider, doesn't fit the cut-out, and doesn't seem to do midrange as well higher up as these. Impression is that these tweeters are mated to these woofers and probably have a higher xover than the SEAS/Scanspeak examples and are thus non-interchangeable with them.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
I've had 3 pair of A25s, all with SEAS woofers. One had a sagged spider due to the grille being put on upside down and pressing on the surround for a long period.
I haven't tried that driver at higher frequencies. It's not particularly sensitive in the original configuration but does make very good bass.
I haven't tried that driver at higher frequencies. It's not particularly sensitive in the original configuration but does make very good bass.
bwaslo
Active Member
A question of depth
Depth of the waveguide and driver, that is.
Can anyone tell me what the depth is (from back of mounting lip to back of driver) for the DE250/Rectangular QSC guide, as well as the "classic ewave" using Selenium and JBL or Pyle waveguides?
I pulled the trigger on the Maestros, cabinets and grilles are in fine shape. Woofer surrounds are MIA, of course. But on the drive home I looked over and thought.. "gee, those cabinets aren't very deep". Seemed like the old Large Advents had very deep cabinets, but these are only 8.75" on the outside in the area where the waveguides would go. I can probably get another inch by building out the baffle to fit within the grille (would also help align the voicecoils), but will lose about a half inch or more for the back panel.
So, I may have screwed up. If so, I guess I can always fix them up and turn them or give them to one of the kids...
Depth of the waveguide and driver, that is.
Can anyone tell me what the depth is (from back of mounting lip to back of driver) for the DE250/Rectangular QSC guide, as well as the "classic ewave" using Selenium and JBL or Pyle waveguides?
I pulled the trigger on the Maestros, cabinets and grilles are in fine shape. Woofer surrounds are MIA, of course. But on the drive home I looked over and thought.. "gee, those cabinets aren't very deep". Seemed like the old Large Advents had very deep cabinets, but these are only 8.75" on the outside in the area where the waveguides would go. I can probably get another inch by building out the baffle to fit within the grille (would also help align the voicecoils), but will lose about a half inch or more for the back panel.
So, I may have screwed up. If so, I guess I can always fix them up and turn them or give them to one of the kids...
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
The PH612/D220Ti is pretty shallow. The big rectangular QSC with B&C driver needs 7" from the front of the panel to the inside of the back.