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Replacing a fuse...Fast acting or time delayed?

marantzfan

marantzfan

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I just bought a turntable, and I need to change one of the fuses..It is rated at 300mA 250MV...Well, I have found fuses of the same size and type on line theres just one problem...They come in either fast acting or time delay...How do I know which one I need??
 
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Go with fast or whatever the service manual recommends.If no service manual go with the quick one.Unless the one you removed says "slo blo" on it.





Dave
 
No service manual..It's a Pioneer PL-51...It won't power up, but cosmetically this thing is beatiful..I popped the hood and everything inside looks immaculate...No obvious cold solder joints or anything...The only thing suspect was this fuse which looks slightly corroded where the glass meets the metal..

Went to ratshack today to get a replacement, and they didn't have the size I needed so I did a search on the web..Thats how I got into the predicamant I am in now..

One metal edge says just 250V 300mA..the other says SOCST4...
 
EchoWars said:
Always use a fast fuse unless you specifically know otherwise.
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Excellent, I got two of em on order....I have never seen this before..It looks like there's humidity inside one of them..Nothing looks damaged except a little corrosion on the meteal edges...hmmm..:scratch2:
 
If you still have the original, look at its innards. A slow-blow fuse will have a spring and a rectangular mechanism inside, a fast-acting fuse will be a wire or simple metal stamping. The end cap printing of a standard slow-blow fuse will have the code MDL, fast-acting will be AGC.

As a rule, slow-blow fuses are for circuits with high inrush currents such as motors and the like.
 
Jukin Jay said:
If you still have the original, look at its innards. A slow-blow fuse will have a spring and a rectangular mechanism inside, a fast-acting fuse will be a wire or simple metal stamping. The end cap printing of a standard slow-blow fuse will have the code MDL, fast-acting will be AGC.

As a rule, slow-blow fuses are for circuits with high inrush currents such as motors and the like.
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This one's just got a little wire inside..So I apparently fast acting was correct!...

Thanks for your input though...That will be helpful in the future..
 
marantzfan said:
Excellent, I got two of em on order....I have never seen this before..It looks like there's humidity inside one of them..Nothing looks damaged except a little corrosion on the meteal edges...hmmm..:scratch2:
Click to expand...

You may be lucky and there's nothing wrong with the turntable other than the fuse. 300 mA is a low value fuse requiring a very fine wire. I've seen several cases where low-value fuses have failed just from corrosion due to moisture, and not due to any electrical fault or overload. Probably dissimilar metals at the bond of the fuse wire to the end cap.
 
Jukin Jay said:
You may be lucky and there's nothing wrong with the turntable other than the fuse. 300 mA is a low value fuse requiring a very fine wire. I've seen several cases where low-value fuses have failed just from corrosion due to moisture, and not due to any electrical fault or overload. Probably dissimilar metals at the bond of the fuse wire to the end cap.
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I hope so...Cuz if thats all it is, I got this table for a whoping $56!!
 
Marantzfan, do you have a volt/ohm meter? If not, you should get one. Even a cheepie from the 'shack will get the job done, and you would know already if the fuse was bad. I have a digital Fluke VOM, and it seems not a week goes by here that I don't use it for something.

Best,

Paul :thmbsp:
 
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