• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Stylus Microscopes

Karma16

Super Member
HI All,
When I had my repair shop I used a stylus microscope purpose designed for the job. It was a Swift laboratory microscope which was modified and marketed by Shure. It was 200 power. It’s no longer offered but I have talked to the engineer at Shure who designed it in the early ‘60’s. I was looking for a used one. He did not have any leads but was really enthusiastic about the microscope as a diagnostic tool. I finally found one, no longer being used, at a high end hi fi store. They were happy to find a silly person willing to take it off their hands.

I have used, I think, every consumer grade "stylus magnifier" available in hi fi shops. They are useless. You need much more magnification. To determine stylus wear, your ears are a much better guide if you know what to listen for. Most vinyl junkies know exactly what stylus wear sounds like.

The Shure microscope was a serious and expensive instrument. It was set up with a special lighting fixture that provided light at just the right angle to view the wear facets on the tip. In order to hold the cartridge at exactly the right angle and to position the stylus exactly in the field of view, it had a precision micro adjustment stage. The stage was equipped with a generic cartridge holder. The single eye piece provided a zoom feature. For set-up you would zoom to a low magnification, center the stylus, then zoom to 200X to check wear. It took a bit of practice.

I checked every stylus that came into my shop. After a little experience, you could visually determine the life remaining and if the wear was damaging records. The facets appeared as bright spots on the inside and outside edges of the stylus. The larger the spots the more wear.

The first time someone viewed through the microscope, they could not tell what they were looking at. At 200X the stylus shape itself is not visible. It's much, much too big. Only the wear facets are important.

What I found most interesting was the symmetry of the wear spots. ALL styli used on ANY pivoted tone arm, even the best, had non-symmetrical wear meaning one spot was obviously larger than the other. And the largest spot was always on the inside edge of the stylus. OTH, the wear spots on ALL straight line tracking arms were symmetrical meaning they were the same size. It was a dramatic visual indication of the presence of skating force on pivoting arms and the lack of skating force on straight line tracking arms. Pretty neat.

This is the only visual device that I found that was even remotely useful for checking stylus wear. Thed, save your money for a Shure if you can find one.

Sparky
 
Register to hide this ad
Karma16 said:
To determine stylus wear, your ears are a much better guide if you know what to listen for. Most vinyl junkies know exactly what stylus wear sounds like. Sparky
Good info. Am most interested in 'exactly what stylus wear sounds like.' Am assuming that you are a 'vinyl junky' :thmbsp: and can tell us. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the great info Sparky.

A larger wear spot on the inside of the diamond would indicate not enough anti-skate with a pivoted arm, correct?

Doug
 
HI Doug,
No, that's not right. Skating force is a result of the head offset angle and is excited by the friction between the stylus and the groove modulations. The result is a vector force that pulls the stylus towards the center of the record.

The skating force compensator (weights, springs, etc.) attempts to compensate for the in force by applying an equal opposite force to the outside of the record. The problem is that there is no accurate way of compensating the skating force. It is always changing because the groove moulation (friction) is always changing. The best you can do is come up with an average which is almost ALWAYS wrong.

The wear on the inside of the stylus is an indication that the skating force compensation is not strong enough. This is understandable due to the common methods used to make the adjustment.

Cosmic Law: skating force cannot be adequately compensated. Period.

Sparky

Edited to Add: Sorry, I misread your post. Halftime at the Cowboy game; not enought time :wave: . Yes, A larger spot on the inside does indicate an under compenstated skating force. You are right. Every thing else I said holds. Again, I'm sorry.
 
Karma16 said:
HI All,
When I had my repair shop I used a stylus microscope purpose designed for the job. It was a Swift laboratory microscope which was modified and marketed by Shure. It was 200 power. It’s no longer offered but I have talked to the engineer at Shure who designed it in the early ‘60’s. I was looking for a used one. He did not have any leads but was really enthusiastic about the microscope as a diagnostic tool. I finally found one, no longer being used, at a high end hi fi store. They were happy to find a silly person willing to take it off their hands.

I have used, I think, every consumer grade "stylus magnifier" available in hi fi shops. They are useless. You need much more magnification. To determine stylus wear, your ears are a much better guide if you know what to listen for. Most vinyl junkies know exactly what stylus wear sounds like.

The Shure microscope was a serious and expensive instrument. It was set up with a special lighting fixture that provided light at just the right angle to view the wear facets on the tip. In order to hold the cartridge at exactly the right angle and to position the stylus exactly in the field of view, it had a precision micro adjustment stage. The stage was equipped with a generic cartridge holder. The single eye piece provided a zoom feature. For set-up you would zoom to a low magnification, center the stylus, then zoom to 200X to check wear. It took a bit of practice.

I checked every stylus that came into my shop. After a little experience, you could visually determine the life remaining and if the wear was damaging records. The facets appeared as bright spots on the inside and outside edges of the stylus. The larger the spots the more wear.

The first time someone viewed through the microscope, they could not tell what they were looking at. At 200X the stylus shape itself is not visible. It's much, much too big. Only the wear facets are important.

What I found most interesting was the symmetry of the wear spots. ALL styli used on ANY pivoted tone arm, even the best, had non-symmetrical wear meaning one spot was obviously larger than the other. And the largest spot was always on the inside edge of the stylus. OTH, the wear spots on ALL straight line tracking arms were symmetrical meaning they were the same size. It was a dramatic visual indication of the presence of skating force on pivoting arms and the lack of skating force on straight line tracking arms. Pretty neat.

This is the only visual device that I found that was even remotely useful for checking stylus wear. Thed, save your money for a Shure if you can find one.

Sparky


If someone were to go out and purchase a microscope for this purpose
what should the minimum magnification level be?
 
HI Glen,
200X. I see no reason to mess around with success. If you can find another brand of microscope I hope you will tell us. I don't know of any. There is a chance that a standard microscope can be modified. Remember, you will be looking at reflected light and not transmitted light.

Sparky
 
Karma16 said:
HI Doug,
No, that's not right. Skating force is a result of the head offset angle and is excited by the friction between the stylus and the groove modulations. The result is a vector force that pulls the stylus towards the center of the record.

The skating force compensator (weights, springs, etc.) attempts to compensate for the in force by applying an equal opposite force to the outside of the record. The problem is that there is no accurate way of compensating the skating force. It is always changing because the groove moulation (friction) is always changing. The best you can do is come up with an average which is almost ALWAYS wrong.

The wear on the inside of the stylus is an indication that the skating force compensation is not strong enough. This is understandable due to the common methods used to make the adjustment.

Cosmic Law: skating force cannot be adequately compensated. Period.

Sparky

Yes, I understand what skating is. I believe I said the same thing as you :^)

Doug
 
Karma16 said:
HI Glen,
200X. I see no reason to mess around with success. If you can find another brand of microscope I hope you will tell us. I don't know of any. There is a chance that a standard microscope can be modified. Remember, you will be looking at reflected light and not transmitted light.

Sparky
Decades ago, when I was studying biology in college, I was able to examine phono styli with a compound lab microscope. Yes, getting good light on the styli was a problem. IIRC, I was very disappointed to find what appeared to be very significant wear on a lightly used stylus on an ADC Point 4E. At least I had no other reasonable interpretation for the facets I found on the stylus.
 
HI Yamaha,
Cowboys lost. Life is bitter. :tears: BTW, have you noticed that the theme colors of AudioKarma.org are the Cowboy colors? Good job!!!!!

The wear sound exhibits at high modulation levels (loud passages) primarily in the inner groves on the record. It is most easily heard with violin and vocals. With transients, it is harder since many times transients distort even with a good stylus. It is mistracking, pure and simple. You will hear the sound change into a scratchy sound that appears to attack your ears. As wear gets worse, the distortion will move to passages further out on the record and occur more often.

One must be a little careful. Records can be damaged by a badly worn stylus acting like a chisel. This permanent groove damage can sound like a worn stylus when played with a perfectly good stylus. This, of course, is a good reason to replace the stylus at the first sign of mistracking. Don't let it damage your records. Do not increase tracking force. Doing so may make things better for while but, in the long run, it will make matters worse.

Sparky
 
I just recently purchased some "tally counters" for my tables and carts. Each time I play an LP, I click the counter. I am going to replace all my eliptical cart's after 500 hours and my Line-Contact after 1000 hours just to be on the "safe side".
 
Why couldn't I just get a cheap student microscope--I've seen them with 200X and much highter, cut off the stage and fabricate my own, and add a direct light source? Why wouldn't that work?
 
Karma16 said:
HI Glen,
200X. I see no reason to mess around with success. If you can find another brand of microscope I hope you will tell us. I don't know of any. There is a chance that a standard microscope can be modified. Remember, you will be looking at reflected light and not transmitted light.

I know little about microscopes,
But it would seem to me that if you could just overcome
the challenge of getting proper light to the stylus then you
should be in good shape. Most all of the scopes I’ve ever seen
even the lighted ones transmit their light only from the bottom.
The problem here is that when you place a solid object under
the lens it would block the light in its path. This would prevent
adequate light from getting to the top of the stylus in order to get
a good view of it. It would seem to me if you were able to add
lighting that would project light from the top down instead you
would be able to solve this. Perhaps another possibility would be
to fabricate a small and relatively thin base that would have a
series of small high intensity lights around the edges. You
could position them to project their light downward on an angle from
all four corners of the base. One possibility that came to mind was the
use of a series of high intensity LEDs to surround the base.
 
hakaplan said:
Why couldn't I just get a cheap student microscope--I've seen them with 200X and much highter, cut off the stage and fabricate my own, and add a direct light source? Why wouldn't that work?

Oops.. looks like I wasnt paying attention you beat me to it.
 
the-real-mandak said:
There is one fix; Tangential arm's.

HI All,
Well, it just so happens that I have had only tangential arms since I bought my B&O 4004 in 1978. It was the first tangential system that really worked and looked like a piece of jewelry. Some folks go even further back with the Rabco arms, the first practical tangential arm although I always thought they were a bit kludgy and erector set looking. I know that many early adoptors had stability problems with the first Rabco's. But, we must credit where it is due. It was the first.

My other tangential trackers have been the Yamaha PX-3 (an excellent integrated turntable and a great find on the used market) and my current Eminent Technology ET-2 air bearing arm, by far the best of the bunch. This arm is simply amazing.

I have kept every cartridge I have ever owned going back to 1962. It's a bunch of cartridges. After I acquired my Shure microscope, and realized the power of the tool, I was curious about the wear patterns of all my old cartridges. So, I stuck all of them under the microscope. The very early ones were used on a Miracord changer which did not have antiskating compensation. Then, around 1967, I converted to a SME 3009 arm which did have antiskating. I had the SME until the B&O 4004 came into my life.

The wear patterns were unmistakable. All of the styli used on pivoted arms showed the nonsymmetrical pattern I described above with the Miracord cartridges showing the most severe nonsymmetry. Those used on the tangential arms all were perfectly symmetrical. The verdict was clear.

Obviously, I am very strongly in the tangential arm camp. I also think they sound better. Furthermore, the symmetrical wear pattern results in a stylus that can withstand more use before it must be replaced. This is good.

Sparky
 
Jump over to eBay and do a search on 'microscope light' and you'll come up with various designs. I like the smaller ones that have a tensor light-bulb at the end of a flexible gooseneck that makes it easy to position. They are often sold as lights for machine tools to allow good illumination of the tool/metal interface. Today you can buy white LEDs and fiber obtics for the same use.

And, damn those Cowboys. Keep me on the edge of my seat and make me think they are going to pull it out in the last twenty seconds or so. Just like always. Just wait until next week! (or is that 'Next Year'? :D )
 
HI Yamaha,
Yeah, I agree. I can't decide whether to cry on my keyboard or throw it across the room. Oops, I better not. If I do I'll loose contact with you good folks. Oh well.

Sparky
 
Back
Top Bottom