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Dynaco A25 woofer removal

bigshawn

Active Member
I have posted about this before with no response, so I'll try again.

I am trying to pull the woofer on my A25's to get to the crossover. The woofer is glued in there and isn't budging. Any prying that I am doing against the metal rim, is causing the particle board to breakup. Right now it is small damage, but I don't want to ruin them. Any suggestions?

I have to get in there, as there are pot, cap, and possibly loose wire issues.

Or is there another way of getting in there?

Thanks.
 
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I don't remember mine being glued but the PO could have removed them.

There is no crossover, just a lone cap for the high pass to the tweeter.

Good luck
 
i've done this many times before.
since the weather is cold, those sticky stuff gets kinda hard. you might carefully try warming those up with a hair dryer. make sure you don't damage the surrounds of the drivers. those sealers (i don't think those are glues) can get really sticky. use wider edged screw drivers or other tools and put towel under it after you gain some gap. good luck.
 
A little bit of damage may be inevitable...Dynaco didn't intend for those things to ever come apart.
 
I'd agree with the other posters. Try a little bit of heat (watch out with the rubber surrounds!) and prying with a large flat blade screw driver. Any damage you do inflict can be filled in with this.
 
I just got finished working on a pair of A35s with the same problem. Adding some heat is a good idea, especially if the adhesive is a contact type. Also, don't just pry in one place, pry gently working all around using a flat blade screwdriver and a twisting motion between the edge of the driver and the cutout. On about your second circut something should give.
 
Also, good luck replacing the screws in their original holes. I had to rotate the woofers and start new ones.

One of my favorite speakers now, very easy on the ears for long listening sessions.:music:
 
Place a wide 2-3" paint scraper as far under the rim as you can and with the flat bladed screw-driver--do your prying (with the scraper against the baffle). Use the widest screwdriver you can and don't twist too hard if it doesn't readily give but place something suitable between the driver blade and the scraper to work as anvilling leverage.

The scraper will keep your baffle pretty damage free by spreading out any necessary driver pressure and serves to make quick work of finishing the prying job.
 
That particleboard on the Dynaco (and the Smaller Advent, too) just crumbles as you try to reattach the woofers...Once you get the woofers pryed off (the hair dryer was a good idea) you may wind up damaging the particle board a bit....this is easily fixed with some Mortite caulking afterwards. Don't bother trying to rescrew the woofers back with wood screws- go to the hardware store and get some T-nuts which will hold a lot better anyway. Good luck with this- it's worth the trouble.

MAK
 
Urizen said:
Also, good luck replacing the screws in their original holes. I had to rotate the woofers and start new ones.

One of my favorite speakers now, very easy on the ears for long listening sessions.:music:

Yes they are. I love the sound of the A25's.

I remember trying to get the grill insert out. It was also glued down quite well. Since the grill cloth was completely shot, I was able to work from the inside edge rather than the outside edge thus not damaging the walnut veneer. But I digress.......
 
Raphael said:
Place a wide 2-3" paint scraper as far under the rim as you can and with the flat bladed screw-driver--do your prying (with the scraper against the baffle). Use the widest screwdriver you can and don't twist too hard if it doesn't readily give but place something suitable between the driver blade and the scraper to work as anvilling leverage.

The scraper will keep your baffle pretty damage free by spreading out any necessary driver pressure and serves to make quick work of finishing the prying job.

This is prolly the best way to do it. I've done a couple, and it's a SOB:sigh:
 
The heat from a hairdryer did the trick. Really didn't take that much heat. Then I used a 2" putty knife and a wide flat blade screw driver. Minmal damage to the particle board. Thanks for all the help. I am sure I'll need more help when it comes to recapping them.

I am going to wait to get some gloves to pull the fiberglass out - it looks about as appetizing as chewing on a mouth full of rocks.
 
bigshawn said:
The heat from a hairdryer did the trick. Really didn't take that much heat. Then I used a 2" putty knife and a wide flat blade screw driver. Minmal damage to the particle board. Thanks for all the help. I am sure I'll need more help when it comes to recapping them.

I am going to wait to get some gloves to pull the fiberglass out - it looks about as appetizing as chewing on a mouth full of rocks.

Glad it worked out. The work will be worth the effort.

You are welcome to check out my threads when I restored my A-25:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=84749
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89357
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=91677
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=92958

If I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to ask.

Best of luck.:thmbsp:
 
Your in luck! I recapped my A-25's about a month ago. Here's a few photo's that I'll post for a while. Obviously I can't leave them up for long so make copies or have a good photographic memory. :D

After you have removed your woofer this is likely what you'll see. You'll have to cut the speaker wires and resolder to remove the plastic. If you decide not to remove speaker wires (which I believe will make this job more difficult), try not to damage the drivers. Either way, just remove the plastic then the insulation.

IMG_0077.jpg


You made it! Here's the original crossover in all it's sophistication -NOT, but it's the sound that matters right? Notice all the tar-baby goo holding everything together...

IMG_0017.jpg


I used the Dayton caps which after listening are plenty good enough for me. The Daytons were larger than the original caps. Each speaker had the caps glued in slightly different locations and I tried to glue the new caps in the same place as found in each speaker. Compare photo's and notice the different location of each capacitor. BTW: I decided to replace my speaker terminals at the same time. Good Luck! :thmbsp:

IMG_0074.jpg
 
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