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Some interesting 60's? speakers I picked up...

There ought to be a cap there, maybe tucked in close behind the tweeter? I guess the alternative is the tweeter is much higher resistance than the woofer, say 45 Ohms or more. This would be somewhat like a volume control for the tweeter, but both speakers would attempt to reproduce all frequencies. Probably sounding honky as a result. Cover one port or the other and see if that helps the bass. It may not, as these paper-edged cones never seemed to reach that low to begin with.

I guess you could try one wire to positive and the other to the basket and see if that acts differently from using the negative post. A multimeter resistance check could be done if you don't want to risk the amp. Probe the tweeter terminals on its rear and work back from there to the main terminals.

It was common in the 50's and 60's to see empty enclosures offered by McGee Radio, Olson Electronics, Lafayette and other places. Then, for more money, you could buy one as a kit with various drivers in Economy, Good, Better or Best grades, or choose your own drivers to put in the empty box.

This sort of speaker might sound better with tubes. Guitar use should be great within the power rating of the speaker.

-Ed
 
I'll try taping the negative wire to the basket and see if that makes a difference. Once these are good to go, I'm planning on powering them with a Toa mono ss 70's amp I have.
 
Being that it's a coax speaker, their SHOULD be a capacitor somewhere?
On the other hand, if the build was a total novice....maybe not?
That UTAH speaker has a good-sized Alnico magnet, with good build quality.
My guess is...ditch the tweeter and seal the ports...and you've got one first-rate guitar speaker cabinet there. UTAH did supply Leo Fender with speakers in the past. Good luck!!

Steve
 
Measure the Utah's T/S parameters and plug them into a box modeling program. :yes:
 
gearhound said:
Being that it's a coax speaker, their SHOULD be a capacitor somewhere?
On the other hand, if the build was a total novice....maybe not?
That UTAH speaker has a good-sized Alnico magnet, with good build quality.
My guess is...ditch the tweeter and seal the ports...and you've got one first-rate guitar speaker cabinet there. UTAH did supply Leo Fender with speakers in the past. Good luck!!

Steve
Click to expand...

Should I put in a tweeter or will it not be needed for a guitar?
 
mxlews said:
How would I do this? :screwy:
Click to expand...
I posted that in a moment of frivolity.

If you want to get into the technology of loudspeaker design, purchase Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook and read up. The basics of Thiele/Small parameters are discussed, and there's a chapter on how to measure them manually. Woofer Tester 2 is also available at Parts Express to do it with your computer.

The T/S parameters describe a speaker, and comprise the basis for designing cabinets for it. If I had your Utah here, I could tell you in about five minutes what it was good for using WT2....
 
I decided to turn them into speakers for my guitars. I figured they'd get the most use that way, and it doesn't cost me anything. I used some fiber board? MDF? Whatever, some free board I picked up that I used for the baffles. I centered the woofers on them and used a jigsaw to cut the holes. I screwed them in from the inside. I powered them with the Toa first, but I think that amp has some problems - terrible buzz. I'm now powering them with a Kenwood KR-4010. I use a modified guitar cable with an RCA jack on one end to plug in to the receiver's phono input. I need to find another receiver though, because this Kenwood doesn't have any mono switch so I can only get audio out of one channel. It sounds good for what it is at the moment. Next up I'm going to seal the cabs properly with foam tape or whatever that stuff is, and maybe add some insulation?

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3866/img0060hg3.jpg

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/5730/img0063wg5.jpg

Yes, I left the tweeters in there for now.
 
Well, take care of those cabinets. You can appreciate their versatility now.... :thmbsp:
 
Hi Zilch!

Zilch said:
Well, take care of those cabinets. You can appreciate their versatility now.... :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Heyyyy, I know you!! How are you doing Zilch? I just joined this forum. Recognize me? It's good to "see" you! :thmbsp:

Peter
 
Vintage Pete said:
Recognize me? It's good to "see" you! :thmbsp:
Click to expand...
Well, SURE, Peter.

I'll have NO opinion on Oracle or Disco at AK now.... ;)

[May still measure 'em tho.... :thmbsp:
 
Fair enough!

Zilch said:
Well, SURE, Peter.

I'll have NO opinion on Oracle or Disco at AK now.... ;)

[May still measure 'em tho.... :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Okay Zilch,

I'll stay tuned...you know I've been thinking of starting a thread at LHF on that very topic...I'm sure I can get bombarded with opinions there! :yes:

Peter
 
A little late with this, but I just read the thread. If you pull the utah tag off the back of the magnet assembly (can), there should be a screw under there and that can comes off the magnet assembly and more than likely the cap is under there too. Electrovoice used to pull the same thing. You can't do that with Ferrite mags, they are too big and ugly..
 
I finally spent the money and, with Zilch's help, loaded up the cabs with the right drivers. They sound amazing. Here are some bad pics of the process and results (going to take some nice final pics soon). I still have some work to do, but they are pretty much done!

HF- BMS 4550 on JBL PT Waveguides
LF- JBL 123A-1 12" Woofers closed-box
Crossovers- Designed by Zilch, built by myself.
Legs- $20 from IKEA

:music:
 

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WHOA!

Grilles, JBL badges, AND cool feet!!

Excellent job, Mxlews.... :thmbsp:

[I've obviously got some catching up to do in the "looking GOOD" department (below).... :yes: ]

Edit: I don't know if anybody has made note of the timeline on this, but Mxlews completed this entire project in just 3 weeks, including acquisition of all parts other than the cabinets and assembling the new crossovers and baffles.... :guitar:
 

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