Details
I found the case at my town dump. It was originally a watch demagnetizer from a pre-WW2 jeweler or thereabouts. The top had a 2, 2"x5" slots in it each with a hardwood insert. The guts were long gone from it so I don't know what exactly was in it or how it worked. It was just the shell and top & bottom covers. This is the tag that was on it -
I cut the center divider between the two open sections in the top away to make a single large opening and then used a router table to square it up. Both the top & bottom are sandcast aluminum and the center section is sheetmetal. I painted the top & bottom with Krylon wrinkle paint and once all the holes are cut for binding posts and input terminals I'll paint it the same way.
The screen is stainless steel scrap that I picked up somewhere and the FH allens are also stainless and countersinked into the top. As the top is sandcast, only the presenting surface is fairly square. The underside is rough & knobby so I used small brown bakelite stand-offs to hold the screen off the surface evenly.
The large hole in the front perfectly fit a large machine age lamp indicator I've been wanting to use but the vintage of it didn't look right on anything I'd tried. I think it looks perfect on this. Instead of a lamp I will use a superbright LED in place of the bulb. The on/off toggle switch is a DPDT which I'll parallel & capacitor bypass for long life. I still need to find one of those aluminum flags that goes over the switch threads that says "ON-OFF".
Lastly I need to decide what amp will go into the case. I've got a few candidates -
1) I've got a Technics SA-80 receiver. It uses an STK stereo output stage for 15WPC and the circuit is straight out of the Sanyo data sheet at first glance. I may just saw the PCB up at the output stage and hardwire new inputs into the lands and move the power supply & transformer over to the new case along with it. The STK heatsink will fit inside the case with room to spare. As an aside, if anyone has a schematic for this receiver, I'd love to get a copy.
2) Another STK based unit is from ADS. One of the engineer's gave me an amp he built from a P80 Power Plate car amp that had a blown power supply. This amp was good for 40W into 4-ohms on each channel. He made a new supply from an Atelier A2 integrated amp and packaged the whole thing in a case that looks like 1/2 of a PA4 except not as deep. (I am iffy on ripping this one apart and may just rebuild the chassis & square things up.)
3) I have a dead HTiB unit that used TDA7293's for each channel output. They are essentially ST's answer to National's LM3886 "gainclone" and each is good for ~75W into 4-ohms. The unit I have has 5-channels on a single PCB. I figure with some judicious scalpel work I can free two sections off the main PCB for use in this amp. I'll move the power supply over as is.
4) I have a full-range class-D stereo demo board that is good for 75WPC. It uses a compact computer switching supply and the amp itself if about the footprint of a pack of smokes. This one will be the least work and the one I am leaning towards the most. It is also the one most diametrically opposed to the case styling and era.
Comments on which amp to use will be appreciated. I did discount a tube amp for this out of hand. I've got the parts but want to get this completed in a reasonable amount of time. Tube amps always take me a long time when I build them from scratch.
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