Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

would like to know the answer to the baffle width question and how it was arrived at as well. I'm stumped.

Russellc
 
For me it's the looks and also preserving the S99s (if they are in good condition). I find it just looks odd to have the two large boxes stacked.

If it was me...I'd put the LE14s in the larger box you have, and mount the horn on top in a small seperate box as it's the quickest way to get something going. I think S99s would be great to put in a pair of good 10 or 12" woofers, but that requires baffle modifications.

Technically, Zilch says 3 to 3.5 cubic feet would be better, but I'm going to stick with the 2 cubic foot L55 box for the LE14A because that's what I have. I will try to lower the tuning, but adding volume to them or building something from scratch can come later.

BTW, I'm getting worried that all this talk of LE14s here is going to cause a run up in their prices. :sigh: There's gotta be a modern 12" woofer that can be bought new for about the price of a used pair of LE14s that can work as well as them (flat to 1kHz or so) in a 2 to 3 cubic foot box - any ideas?



Thanks for the ideas, (the additional cab is 2.2 ft3 with no bracing, 26" tall)

What I'm trying to understand here is, do some have issues with this height
just because it's BIG? Thinking it's bigger then something they want to move
or just have in there space?

....<snip>....

I really don't have a problem with the cab this size, is there any technical issues?
 
I would say that it's corresponding roughly to a 16" baffle

EDIT: I was looking the wrong graphs. The 1600hz or so dip in most of the frequency response graphs is something you'd commonly see on measurements done on test baffles of about 16". Partsexpress used to have a 1600hz dip on most of their woofer measurements. I think they have since changed that.

If I am interpreting this graph properly, I'm getting an F3 point of about 4khz between the free air and enclosed waveguides.

Using the formulas from True Audio for baffle step compensation, we have the following:

f3 = 380/W(baffle)

Above, if my interpretation is correct, we have

4000hz = 380/W(baffle)

4000hz/380 = 1/W(baffle)

10.5 = 1/W(baffle)

1/10.5 = W(baffle)

.095 feet = baffle width.

1.15"?


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How did I do?
 
I would say that it's corresponding roughly to a 16" baffle

EDIT: I was looking the wrong graphs. The 1600hz or so dip in most of the frequency response graphs is something you'd commonly see on measurements done on test baffles of about 16". Partsexpress used to have a 1600hz dip on most of their woofer measurements. I think they have since changed that.

Well, it's an 8" wide wave guide, so would a dip show up at 1100(ft/sec)/0.666(ft.) = 1650Hz? Just guessing.
 
Something in the low 80s? I assume that this is a "trick" question and I have missed the boat more than likely. It has the 60 ohm resistor and appears to be for the Advent, so that's my guess and I'm sticking to it.
You guys a gettin' good at this stuff:

D220Ti nominal sensitivity = 109 dB, less 20 dB = 89 dB. The Advent and DC250-8 woofers are ~4 dB less than that due to my dorking with the lowpass to bring up the bass response, Baffle Step Compensation, some would call that; they balance with the additional L-pad set at midpoint, i.e., -4 dB, for a system net 85 dB sensitivity.

That's my guess, and I'm sticking to it. ;)

How did I do?
The baffle step slope begins at ~7.1 kHz, the wavelength of which is ~1.75". Doesn't make sense to me, either, but that's what I believe it shows.... :dunno:

Technically, Zilch says 3 to 3.5 cubic feet would be better, but I'm going to stick with the 2 cubic foot L55 box for the LE14A because that's what I have. I will try to lower the tuning, but adding volume to them or building something from scratch can come later.
2 cuft is too small. I like it just fine. :thmbsp:

BTW, I'm getting worried that all this talk of LE14s here is going to cause a run up in their prices. :sigh: There's gotta be a modern 12" woofer that can be bought new for about the price of a used pair of LE14s that can work as well as them (flat to 1kHz or so) in a 2 to 3 cubic foot box - any ideas?
Gordon says try the 12" Dayton Classic.... :yes:
 
Well, what should I find on the virgin pair of LE14As I have destined for EWG service? The original lansaloy surrounds introduced an offset of 2-3mm, just like the refoam kits. Apparently JBL didn't consider 100% symetric excursion capabilities all that important so I guess I worried needlessly.

BTW, I'm getting worried that all this talk of LE14s here is going to cause a run up in their prices. :sigh: There's gotta be a modern 12" woofer that can be bought new for about the price of a used pair of LE14s that can work as well as them (flat to 1kHz or so) in a 2 to 3 cubic foot box - any ideas?

Yeah, we have to be careful here as well. The offset that Steve O mentioned seems to introduce a fixed sag into the LE14A's spider. This is in addition to the sag from usage. I looked at a few pairs a few years ago and just couldn't get over the fact that this sagging is not good for the sound. Well, I still don't have any LE14's. This is one driver that I probably won't buy online unless provided with clear photos of the spider and the surround.
 
Three Filters:

Highpass for Selenium D220Ti on the 8" square JBL PT waveguide, baffle mounted, subject to verification by others, R2/R1/C3 per legend here:

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Behringer RTA measurement of E'Wave "Standard" equivalent filter response per Violet curve, above:

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Sorry to be ignorant but the schematics tha tI have don't have component identifiers on them. In the examples that Zilch gives, is the series resistor with teh cap across R1 or R2?
 
BTW, for your Advent woofer LP, are you using the 1.5mh/10uf combo now?
Original E'Wave LP is 1.5 mH/12 uF, actually, but I'm using 3.5 mH/10 uF to replicate the original Advent boo..., er..., "augmented" LF response with full recognition that you probably wouldn't like that so much.... ;)
160045/4212=37.9974​
 
I just went by the resistor values and the displayed graph.

For istance the green one had 10 ohm which went down previous and so did the output
that told me it must be the paralell one, plus the 60 ohm went up from previous but the
output went down so that must be the series one. :)
 
Looks good how do they sound??
Hi, Rob, and thank you for following our efforts. :yes:

It's not world-class we're doing, but it certainly is a major step up from more conventional fare. Constant directivity is a new experience for many here; I'll bet you can remember the first time you heard it, as well. :thmbsp:

I know you've been wanting to try out some of these inexpensive PT waveguides yourself, and the Selenium drivers plus these simple filters we've developed for them using Wayne Parham's Pi-Speaker HF compensation approach perform surprisingly well.... :music:
 
Constant directivity is a new experience for many here; I'll bet you can remember the first time you heard it, as well.

Your right, I can, and it was a revelation. I loved it. Started me down the DIY road and I still don't see the end. Too much fun.

Rob:)
 
Your right, I can, and it was a revelation. I loved it.
So can I and it's still a revelation. Been listening to my ZD-007's all evening and I'm still blown away by them. Goraman was over this evening and we may have another convert. :thmbsp:
 
Hey... a thread that just popped up made me think about this... has anyone thought about E-waving a pair of Bose 501s?? The woofer and cabinet aren't too bad... it's those abominable tweeters that make them sound so bad, IMHO. A riser base and the Ewave setup...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Constant directivity is a new experience for many here; I'll bet you can remember the first time you heard it, as well. :thmbsp:

This is what surprised me the most. It was superior in room-filling to both the cone/dome speakers and conventional horns that I've had, of which there as been a wide variety here.
 
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