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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Aage said:
BEFORE you let anyone talk you into modifying them by hacking them into some horrible hybrid thing, (and therefore also destroying their value forever), PLEASE give them a good long listen in their original state.
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Very much encouraged also; you don't have to hack anything to hear the difference experimentally.... :thmbsp:
 
Update. I put the waveguides in some old realistic cabs that I had laying around. Now they are ready to be mated with any unsuspecting woofer that comes along.
 

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COOL! Oldskl's gone "modular." :thmbsp:

What substrate did you use for your crossovers, Oldskl?
 
Im hooked, and want to start on another set. So far I have a set of 2225H and was wondering what size cabinet would be ideal for these woofers. Im probably gonna upgrade the tweeters from the seleniums to ? but that and the crossovers will have to be decided after cabinets are finished and veneered. So what do you gurus think would be a perfect cabinet for these two 2225H. By the way i changed out the Eminence woofers I used in the first set today to JBL 126As and the different is like night and day. The base is extradinory and the mids are so much clearer. Now i gotta find another set of 126A for my Jubals but they have been sitting for a couple months so I guess a few more wont hurt.
 
Hey Keg, I am finishing my base for the 807 amp this week. Are you around this week in the evening?

Yah Sky, it was a pain drinking all the whiskey just to get the barrels. Cheers.
 
Kegger said:
5 cubic feet! (Tuned to 40hz)
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OK one more stupid question and I should be fine, should i also take into account the speaker displacement(volume), or do you think if i got the cabinets at 5 CF exactly it would be close enough once the speakers are installed(probably taking it down to approx to 4.6 CF or so). i cant see how that little bit could make much of a difference BUT if it would it would be nice to know before i start drawing these up. Also is there a software that can be used to figure this all out that would also help point me in the tuning of these also? thanks.
 
5 cuft. gross internal volume. See JBL 4507 for external dimensions. Search this and other threads for duct diameter and length. The four duct scheme is recommended for adjustable tuning and potential future driver swaps. :yes:

WinISD (free) or BassBox 6 Pro are my recommended box modeling programs.... :thmbsp:
 
Strong-Tie Cross Bracing

GA2 shown with 2x4 for larger cabinets. Smaller GA1 and other L-brackets are in the Simpson catalog.

Half-inch or thicker plywood plate with T-nuts glues to inside of the cabinet walls with structural adhesive; be sure to tape over the T-nut openings so it doesn't get in the threads.

Brace may then be removed via unscrewing the L-brackets from the plywood block, leaving full clearance less the plywood thickness inside the cab. 1x or 2x brace of any desired dimension may be accommodated using this scheme.

Don't be thinking you'll just drill the holes and assemble it later; it's all got to be precisely fit if it's going to be tight. Assemble and glue in place complete. :yes:

So how do you get the glue behind the plywood plate, Zilchster?

Uhmmm, O.K., disassemble, slather the glue on the plates, stick them in the desired locations, and install the brace in place while the glue dries, then. You've got about 15 minutes to get that done with construction adhesive. :banana:

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[Anal retentives may counterbore for flush T-nut installation.... ;) ]
 

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I know it isn't technically econo-waved yet, but it's been two weeks since I ordered the Pyle clones and still no sign of them. So I proceeded with the selenium 2525 horns with the 220ti drivers and Jack's crossovers in my walnut OLA's. I can report that there is no beaming or noticeable HF rolloff within the pattern of these horns, not to mention a nice fit in these not-quite 12" wide cabinets. The biggest pita was trimming the grilles without removing the cloth!
Jim
 

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BEAUTIFUL job on those classic original Large Advents, Jim!

[They'll only know by the listening.... ;) ]

jimreeves said:
By the way, thanks everyone for your work on this project. They sound terrific!
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You are very welcome; we're pleased you like them! :thmbsp:
 
Frankly, I think that any inexpensive waveguide implemented with the principles learned in this thread should get credit as an econowave. Well done on your project, Jim.
 
dnewma04 said:
Frankly, I think that any inexpensive waveguide implemented with the principles learned in this thread should get credit as an econowave. Well done on your project, Jim.
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Thanks for the nice comments, the OLAs were near perfect when I got them, I had a hard time justifying the chop-job. Once done I was amazed at the difference in soundstage, imaging and overall clarity of the HF. Anyone sitting on the fence should definately DIY!
Jim
 
That's a cool solution, thanks, Zilch.
Is wood glue classified as structural adhesive -- e.g.: Elmers? Or are you using something more high tech? Yes, I am really asking.

Zilch said:
LG2 shown with 2x4 for larger cabinets. Smaller LG1 and other L-brackets are in the Simpson catalog.

Half-inch or thicker plywood plate with T-nuts glues to inside of the cabinet walls with structural adhesive; be sure to tape over the T-nut openings so it doesn't get in the threads.

Brace may then be removed via unscrewing the L-brackets from the plywood block, leaving full clearance less the plywood thickness inside the cab. 1x or 2x brace of any desired dimension may be accommodated using this scheme.

Don't be thinking you'll just drill the holes and assemble it later; it's all got to be precisely fit if it's going to be tight. Assemble and glue in place complete. :yes:

So how do you get the glue behind the plywood plate, Zilchster?

Uhmmm, O.K., disassemble, slather the glue on the plates, stick them in the desired locations, and install the brace in place while the glue is wet, then. You've got about 15 minutes to get that done with structural adhesive. :banana:




[Anal retentives may counterbore for flush T-nut installation.... ;) ]
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