As i start to get into the boxes and the questions in my mind begin to arrive, I thought I'd post a quick couple of general questions.
1. How do I go about asking questions? Post them here, or PM certain experts on the Indignias? I'd prefer to put them here so that others can learn from my questions/ your answers, but I don't want to break with protocol. Is it correct to assume that questions I have should be posted in this thread?
Yes, this is the place! :thmbsp:
2. I've never built a XO before and it's pure magic to me. Can I request a picture of both top and bottom of an assembled one that's on the new Zilchlab Indignia v3.5 boards? A picture's worth a thousand words (or answers!)
Notes:
a) Production boards have green solder mask making the soldering easier and neater.
b) They also have an overlay on the component side with parts designations and input/output polarities.
c) Driver leads get terminated with 1/4" Faston connectors; the holes are sized to accept 18 ga. wire.
d) If you mount the 1.5 mH I-Core inductor using #4-40 (x 3/8" - 1/2" length) hardware, the nuts can go on the component side. Use #4 flat washers, too, as the inductor mounting frame is plastic, not metal. I use nylon insert locknuts, as shown.
e) You'll likely have to scrape the enamel off the I-Core inductor leads where they pass through the board. A utility knife will do it easily; you want clean copper there for the soldering.
f) Pads of 3M double-sided foam tape cushion and secure the capacitors and the small inductor to the board. It's white and comes in 1/2" and 3/4" width small rolls from the local ACE hardware. I don't use it on the resistor, but stand that ~1/32" off the surface so air can pass between it and the board. I solder that on first with a credit card as spacer, which I remove to proceed with installing the other components.
g) Input binding posts press in from the outside through the holes provided on the rear of the PE cabinets. If you pound them in, remove the thumbnuts and cushion with a piece of scrap wood. Pay attention to the orientation of the wire feedthroughs when doing this; the knurled section locks it to prevent rotation when you install the hardware on the inside. A phillips screwdriver through the hole in the binding post will assist in lining it up accurately.
h) The hardware sequence is: binding post, cabinet wall, solder lug (provided) as washer, hex nut, toothed lockwasher, PC board, toothed lockwasher, hex nut. This secures the board and stands it ~3/16" - 1/4" off the inside of the rear panel.
i) The binding post hex nuts tighten with a 10mm socket, or, if you do it carefully so as not to damage the nearby components, long-nose pliars.
j) Secure the board from the inside at its four corner locations with nylon standoffs and wood screws of the appropriate size and length, also available at ACE. Alternatively, you can make standoffs easily by parting off the required lengths of aluminum, brass, or plastic tubing from ACE with a hacksaw. You may need a stubby screwdriver to drive the two behind the cabinet brace. I just use short (3/4" - 1") sheetrock or deck screws, as no pilot hole is required for those.
k) 1" thick fiberglass insulation is available as duct wrap at home improvement centers; I use black plenum liner from the local HVAC sheet metal fabrication shop for Indignia cabinet damping.