Russellc
Addicted Member
If its worth shipping I might be looking for boxes. Anyone in your neck of the woods attending Jay's KC fling?
russsellc
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
If its worth shipping I might be looking for boxes. Anyone in your neck of the woods attending Jay's KC fling?
russsellc
If you're comparing the free version of WinISD, then BB6P provides more of the requisite info. The Pro version of WinISD is more comparable, and both give basically the same results....
It doesn't matter, basically; around the back is fine, even.
The important thing is that the duct entrance inside the box be aimed away from the rear of the woofer, so it doesn't channel the midrange frequencies from the rear of its cone out the port....
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
The new OLA Ewave project creeps inexorably forward
Today I cut up the stock for the new front baffles on the OLA ewave project. I bough ta 2 X 4 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood and cut it up into 4 baffles 12" X 23.25". The depth is perfect to fit the lower part of the rim of the cabinet. Rather than use a table saw I cut the stock with a plastic jig saw I picked up for $5 at a garage sale. This is a highly imprecise tool. Making an accurate cut requires clamping a fence to the stock as a guide. I used a 36" plastic level as a guide. The pieces are about 16" shy of the full width and length due to error and the width of the blade. This is within acceptable limits for this project. I used a hand held belt sander (also $5 at a garage sale) to make a 1/8" bevel on the back edges of the cut panels. This will allow space for rope caulk to be placed in around the edge of the original baffle. This will be the seal when the new baffle is screwed down. I intend to make the baffles removable for access to the woofer and other internals. This will require a number of T-nuts installed in the original baffle and matching countersunk holes for #8 machine screws to go through the new baffle.
The square hole for the waveguide will be a cinch, as the edge will be covered by the frame of the WG. I'm still unsure about the best way to make the round woofer hole. It will show because the woofer will be back mounted. I have a router and I could buy a circle jig ($30 - $40) but I'd like to do the hole with the same jig saw if possible. Cutting it freehand on a line would be prone to error and sloppiness. Still thinking about that one.
Today I cut up the stock for the new front baffles on the OLA ewave project. I bough ta 2 X 4 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood and cut it up into 4 baffles 12" X 23.25". The depth is perfect to fit the lower part of the rim of the cabinet. Rather than use a table saw I cut the stock with a plastic jig saw I picked up for $5 at a garage sale. This is a highly imprecise tool. Making an accurate cut requires clamping a fence to the stock as a guide. I used a 36" plastic level as a guide. The pieces are about 16" shy of the full width and length due to error and the width of the blade. This is within acceptable limits for this project. I used a hand held belt sander (also $5 at a garage sale) to make a 1/8" bevel on the back edges of the cut panels. This will allow space for rope caulk to be placed in around the edge of the original baffle. This will be the seal when the new baffle is screwed down. I intend to make the baffles removable for access to the woofer and other internals. This will require a number of T-nuts installed in the original baffle and matching countersunk holes for #8 machine screws to go through the new baffle.
The square hole for the waveguide will be a cinch, as the edge will be covered by the frame of the WG. I'm still unsure about the best way to make the round woofer hole. It will show because the woofer will be back mounted. I have a router and I could buy a circle jig ($30 - $40) but I'd like to do the hole with the same jig saw if possible. Cutting it freehand on a line would be prone to error and sloppiness. Still thinking about that one.
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Looking good B. I think I have a small bar with a hole on one end. The bar attaches to the jigsaw then you screw through the hole in the middle of the circle. This will guide the jigsaw in a perfect circle however far you slide the bar out.
I will take a look tonight for it.
What do you think of putting a pair of the Altec 406 in my American Monitor cabs.
I will take a look tonight for it.
What do you think of putting a pair of the Altec 406 in my American Monitor cabs.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
I thought about improvising something like that. I think the sole plate of the jigsaw would take a 1/4" X 1/16" rod. It's probably the 'neatest' way to go but there will still have to be some sanding of the irregularities. Zilch recommended radiusing the hole with a router. I like tha tidea but I'm trying to avoid tool intensive operations. I may line the inner edge of the hole with felt to break up reflections. The transition from hole to baffle is a little worrying.
I like the 406 woofer a lot. The Bolero cabinet is about the same size as your AM cabs. The Boleros are loaded with passives to load the bass. In a sealed cab you'd probably need to work out porting to get the bass tuned right. You can find 406s on That Auction Site. They're expensive. Look for 406Z or 406-8Y. They're not identical but may be equivalent for our purposes.
I'm using my Bolero cabs with the 3000G tweeters removed and the holes sealed up. I have the PH612/D220TI sitting on top. I like the sound a lot. Irecalled this setup having deeper bass, but these have not been run in a while so they may need to loosen up.
After looking at your work, I think I will do the same thing to the American Monitor cabs so I can use the round horns and drivers I already have. That will keep the cost down. If I do that, I will just refoam the drivers I have with the foams you gave me, but with the driver mounted on the outside. In this case I will not need to spend much money on them.....which is a good think as I am trying to save my money for a TT.
I think Z is right about radiusing the hole after it is cut. The jig with a bar will do a clean job of it. BUT, you should practice on a scrap peice first. Cheers.
I think Z is right about radiusing the hole after it is cut. The jig with a bar will do a clean job of it. BUT, you should practice on a scrap peice first. Cheers.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
I'm trying to avoid routers to make the processes repeatable by builders with minimal tools. Also, once the hole is cut there's nothing to fix the jig to. The roundover bit follows the inner surface of the hole, for better or worse.
**EDIT** I could always take this up to my wife's 'office' and whack out all the holes there to .001" precision but not everyone has access to a 2hp Bridgeport J Head vertical mill and a full range of bits. I'm trying to decide how The Pioneers (settlers, not Japanese) would do this. It's always more difficult and challenging with simple tools. **/EDIT**
Also, a radiused hole creates problems for veneering.
I think this jigsaw or another one I have has a sole plate I can tilt. I can make the hole conical to the outside to a limited extent. That plus felt lining may be the best I can do.
**EDIT** Yes, the sole plate will tilt, so I may be committed to a conical hole. Oboy. **/EDIT**
This may go on the back burner for a while. A client just returned a custom pair of Dyna MK III amps I built him, blown up for the 3rd time. You'd think 60 WPC would be plenty for Khorns. Gonna build new driver boards for them again & see if I can incorporate some kind of soft clip.
I like inventing stuff but I hate having to invent.
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Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
Bauhausler,
send him home with a big pro amp to find out how loud He wants it. A friend of mine tells a great story of a Klipsch Horn on FIRE
If He's asking so much more than the 60 watter can supply, send him home with 600 WPC...
Did the 6x6's arrive in good shape?
He has one of my Ampzillas on loan so we'll see if that's enough. maybe I should trade him out of the MK IIIs for an Accuphase P-300. That has great protection circuits. I suspect the problem is caused by slamming HF peaks into the protection Zeners across the MR and HF drivers, effectively shorting the amp on peaks. Chaos ensues. Maybe I should just clip out the Zeners on his crossovers and let him blow drivers.
I have the 6X6 waveguides. I used them with teh standard Ewave crossover and D220Ti. These show potential. I'd like to see a JBL sheet on them to determine the min freq. I see they're crossed at 2400 in the AC15 (I think). Thats' a useful point for a 3-way.
**EDIT** Not the AC15. I need to look up where that 6X6 90X90 waveguide is used... **/EDIT**
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Russellc
Addicted Member
wondered how he kept blowing up tube amps. I've fried a few solid state ones, never a tube unit...not yet anyway.
russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
Today I cut up the stock for the new front baffles on the OLA ewave project. I bough ta 2 X 4 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood and cut it up into 4 baffles 12" X 23.25". The depth is perfect to fit the lower part of the rim of the cabinet. Rather than use a table saw I cut the stock with a plastic jig saw I picked up for $5 at a garage sale. This is a highly imprecise tool. Making an accurate cut requires clamping a fence to the stock as a guide. I used a 36" plastic level as a guide. The pieces are about 16" shy of the full width and length due to error and the width of the blade. This is within acceptable limits for this project. I used a hand held belt sander (also $5 at a garage sale) to make a 1/8" bevel on the back edges of the cut panels. This will allow space for rope caulk to be placed in around the edge of the original baffle. This will be the seal when the new baffle is screwed down. I intend to make the baffles removable for access to the woofer and other internals. This will require a number of T-nuts installed in the original baffle and matching countersunk holes for #8 machine screws to go through the new baffle.
The square hole for the waveguide will be a cinch, as the edge will be covered by the frame of the WG. I'm still unsure about the best way to make the round woofer hole. It will show because the woofer will be back mounted. I have a router and I could buy a circle jig ($30 - $40) but I'd like to do the hole with the same jig saw if possible. Cutting it freehand on a line would be prone to error and sloppiness. Still thinking about that one.
This is the deal where you're mounting the woofer on the back of the baffle to get it slightly closer to the HF, right?
russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
Today I cut up the stock for the new front baffles on the OLA ewave project. I bough ta 2 X 4 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood and cut it up into 4 baffles 12" X 23.25". The depth is perfect to fit the lower part of the rim of the cabinet. Rather than use a table saw I cut the stock with a plastic jig saw I picked up for $5 at a garage sale. This is a highly imprecise tool. Making an accurate cut requires clamping a fence to the stock as a guide. I used a 36" plastic level as a guide. The pieces are about 16" shy of the full width and length due to error and the width of the blade. This is within acceptable limits for this project. I used a hand held belt sander (also $5 at a garage sale) to make a 1/8" bevel on the back edges of the cut panels. This will allow space for rope caulk to be placed in around the edge of the original baffle. This will be the seal when the new baffle is screwed down. I intend to make the baffles removable for access to the woofer and other internals. This will require a number of T-nuts installed in the original baffle and matching countersunk holes for #8 machine screws to go through the new baffle.
The square hole for the waveguide will be a cinch, as the edge will be covered by the frame of the WG. I'm still unsure about the best way to make the round woofer hole. It will show because the woofer will be back mounted. I have a router and I could buy a circle jig ($30 - $40) but I'd like to do the hole with the same jig saw if possible. Cutting it freehand on a line would be prone to error and sloppiness. Still thinking about that one.
I bought the jasper circle jig from PE, but have yet to use it!
Still havent made up my mind on a router:scratch2:russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
I heard a little NHT system back in the late 90's. It was small boxes like those, but I think the tweets were different, more like the tweet in Indignia
If I recall correctly. They were mated to a NHT subwoofer, and the combination actually sounded pretty dam good. Seem like I remember a larger speaker they made, something like JBL L 7 with the side mounted woofs,.....I think that was NHT anyway. Know the sat sub system was. I think the sats were Super zero or something like that.
Russellc
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
I worked on this today and got the positioning of the drivers figured. The woofer will be back mounted and will overlap the edge of the waveguide. I measure the center-to-center distance as 8.5", which is as predicted. that should be a significant improvement over the conventional Advent driver positioning. It had better be. This is a hassle.
I'm avoiding routers for the sake of simplicity, though the Bridgeport mill option is awfully tempting. If my wife's shop had the right cutter in stock I'd be tempted to 'cheat' and mill out a fancy hole for the woofer.
Maybe I'll just have a look at the KBC-tool website...
rage
Well-Known Member
Finally snapped pics of my E-waves!
JBL L26 enclosures bought from a thrift store for $10 with the wrong drivers, 220 compression drivers and EPI 10" T/E woofers. Woofers have no inductor and seem to work pretty well that way.
These sound great, really enjoyed the project. Thanks guys!
JBL L26 enclosures bought from a thrift store for $10 with the wrong drivers, 220 compression drivers and EPI 10" T/E woofers. Woofers have no inductor and seem to work pretty well that way.
These sound great, really enjoyed the project. Thanks guys!
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Hi Crew
Zilch, have you thought to wiki this?
I've spent a couple hours looking at the thread and am not anywhere near 'complete' on it, it's unmanageably large.
Seems like a great project, I certainly have a lot of quality options for wooferage. JBL 2226H would play up to where these want to be, though a little rough on top. I've got JBL 123A-1 and 2213 (123A-3) which would be superb options, however.
Zilch, have you thought to wiki this?
I've spent a couple hours looking at the thread and am not anywhere near 'complete' on it, it's unmanageably large.
Seems like a great project, I certainly have a lot of quality options for wooferage. JBL 2226H would play up to where these want to be, though a little rough on top. I've got JBL 123A-1 and 2213 (123A-3) which would be superb options, however.