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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Andyman said:
Agreed. I cut a lot of knuckles on those guys.

What helps quite a bit is a tool I "made".
I took an old kitchen knife and bent it in a vise to about 45 degrees and snapped it off. That allows it to get under the back of the Masonite and scrape it off. I also use some Jasco Adhesive stripper applied with a long handled artist's brush to soften it up. Works quite well.
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Getting the glue off the back definitely requires a long tool to reach through. I have a cut off steak knife that I sometimes use. It's the devil to get at. I considered Acetone but didn't know what that would do to the Masonite or to the spider if I splashed it. I'll try adhesive stripper. Anything to reduce the labor is a bonus.
 
Re Acetone, I've had some success using it to soften the dustcaps' adhesive for removal. The surround suppliers recommend denatured alcohol to get the foam residue off the Masonite ring and cone, that seemed to work well if not perfectly.
 
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I think Ewave should have a logo for speaker badges.

I was talking to my wife about labeling machinery yesterday. She has to prepare all sorts of applied labels for machines that she designs so she broke down and bought a laser printer that will print 'etched' foilcals. That got me thinking that if Ewave had a logo, builders could make their own speaker badges.
One of my sisters is a graphic designer. I'm seeing her tomorrow and I'll see if I can twist her arm into whipping up a slick logo maybe using maybe the shape of the CD dispersion pattern or something like that. Might be fun.
 
JBL 'Econowave' horn on B&C DE250. Thread removed precisely to throat, squared and driver bolted to flanges with unsightly trihedral shaped brackets.
 

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jrock7 said:
Jackgiff, as you have posted before, I got the comp filter attenuations, however can you tell me the attenuation for -9db and -13 db , R1 R2 and cap uF values. Just need to balance my econo wave precisely without using any L Pad.
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jrock, sorry to take so long with an answer. Myrna and I were out of town for a couple weeks. We drove to Washington State to visit relatives.

The chart for HF driver attenuation calls out for 15 Ohms for R1, which yields 9.2 db attenuation. An approximate value of 30 Ohms should yield the 13 db attenuation. My best guess would be to use the >95 db version for the 9 db loss circuit, and the <95 db version for a loss of about 13 db. Simply wire them up with no L-Pads.
 
Oooo, a lovely young lady graces Jack's Sunbeam, I see.... :thmbsp:

290048/6264=46.3040​
 
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Zilch said:
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http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2144967#post2144967



If you want an upgrade over the standard E'Wave shown above, then it's BMS 4555 on the 1.5" version of the E'Waveguide, PT-F95HF, P/N 338650-001, $113 each, MSRP.

There's an intermediate solution, BMS 4550 or 4552nd (a Zilchster favorite) on the standard $9.90 1" E'Waveguide, with throat adapter.... :yes:
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Havent given up on the B&C DE 250 have you?

Russellc
 
jrock7 said:
Hi Zilch, If I was to use a zobel with my woofer , should it be placed right after the 1.2 xover. ( just before the woofer)
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Yes, that's correct; it goes across the woofer leads.

Russellc said:
Haven't given up on the B&C DE 250 have you?
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Nope, it a matter of, "So many drivers, so little time."

I've been bit by the Mini-E'Wave bug of late; building some in PE cabinets, the larger one in the Indignia cabs, and a smaller one in the 0.25 cuft size. I'll get some pics up maybe later today, now that I have the "Mini" JBL 2414H HF drivers, which I'm presently testing in the BA60 on the 6" square E'Waveguides.... :yes:
 
Thinking outside the frame

Here's a slightly different approach to refoaming Advent Masonite woofers. The real bear when you do these is the underside glue on the Masonite. It turns out that the Masonite is not that difficult to remove from the metal frame. The new foam can be easily applied to the underside once it has been cleaned of old glue. Then the Masonite is re-glued to the frame and the surround is glued to the cone at the same time. It works, but takes a lot of time to remove all of the old glue. When I find an effective solvent for this adhesive I can cut the time in half. As it is, it took 3 hours to get 2 woofers done. While I'm at it I'm going to paint the frame rim and Masonite black on a pair of these. They're going into cabinets that have black painted baffles and I think that would look best with the black waveguide. Plus the black paint's already handy.
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I've had a bit of a look, but I can't see if anyone has measured the WG from the MRX525, the 70x70 unit. Are there any anywhere? Curious about how it performs vis the 90x40 Z sent me a while ago (next project).
 
Zilch said:
Doesn't look like there's much holding the Masonite to the frame. What's it glued in with? :dunno:
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I think in the photo he has removed a lot from the frame... at least on the woofers I have worked on you would need to, to get it to look like that!
 
Zilch said:
Doesn't look like there's much holding the Masonite to the frame. What's it glued in with? :dunno:
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In that photo the Masonite has just been yanked off and no glue has been removed. I'll take a slose up of the next (3rd) one I do. There's less than a 1/4" of contact between the frame and the Masonite. The adhesive is the same tan stuff that the spider is attached to the frame with. The adhesive holding the surround to the cone and to the Masonite is a clear amber color. It's a PITA to remove. Unless there's something I haven't found yet that will soften it it has to be peeled off manually a few mm at a time.
Actually, it's unnecessary to remove the glue from the Masonite at all. You can just flip it over and glue the clean former 'upper' surface down.
I finished this pair around 3:00 am. When the glue is fully cured I'll use WT3 to compare them to some that I've refoamed in the past with the conventional thick generic foams. For this pair I used a different, thinner and more flexible foam which I expect to give a lower Fs due to being less 'springy'.

*EDIT*
Yup. The two woofers refoamed with the thinner foam have resonances of 16 and 17 hz. The older ones with the thicker generic foam measure 38 and 42 hz. A pretty significant difference.
*/EDIT*

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