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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

So this driver would be much better suited to a three way application then. It seems like ti would do a great job up to about 200 hz. So a nice full range from aout 100 to 2.5k(xover at 200 and 2k) then a nice horn on top. Hmm....
Okay.
Thanks a bunch.
 
So this driver would be much better suited to a three way application then. It seems like ti would do a great job up to about 200 hz. So a nice full range from aout 100 to 2.5k(xover at 200 and 2k) then a nice horn on top. Hmm....
Okay.
Thanks a bunch.

8-10" midwoofer would be perfect....RCF,18Sound,Beyma,B&C,etc.....
 
Build separate subs with those drivers and follow Gordon's recommendation regarding the midbass horn.
 
Build separate subs with those drivers and follow Gordon's recommendation regarding the midbass horn.

Hey Zilch,
I thought of that. If I did that I would need an active crossover and biamp - right?
That is getting a little involved for me. I was reading about a first order butterworth and how to use it. If I treated the ewave(woof and tweet) setup as a single diver and built a crossover to handle these woofs as subs, would that work?

Mark
 
You drive the subs with a plate amp, which has its own lowpass crossover built in.... :yes:

+1 on this. Those should be relatively efficient, so you wouldn't need a huge plate amp. The 240w plate amp from Parts Express should do nicely for a pair.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Hi Mark, I have two BASH 300 plate amps and think the world of them. They are 300wpc and do not produce any heat. The Daytons get realy hot. I like the sound qualities of the BASH better as well. I think they are much cleaner sounding. And basically they are the same price.....give or take a bit.

I am using them with the "H" frames I got from Cable Guy. He brought over a pair of the Daytons, but the BASH sounds better.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...0&FTR=bash 300&CFID=35861677&CFTOKEN=21590260
 
Hi Mark, I have two BASH 300 plate amps and think the world of them. They are 300wpc and do not produce any heat. The Daytons get realy hot. I like the sound qualities of the BASH better as well. I think they are much cleaner sounding. And basically they are the same price.....give or take a bit.

I am using them with the "H" frames I got from Cable Guy. He brought over a pair of the Daytons, but the BASH sounds better.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...0&FTR=bash 300&CFID=35861677&CFTOKEN=21590260

It'll be nice if PE ever gets those back in stock. They've had that October 20 back-in-stock date on those for about the last 3 months. Makes me wonder if they're actually ever going to get new stock on those?

Those are GREAT amps, if you can get them. I used them for AWA in our Main Video room... and they kick butt...

But yes... the 300-804 from PE is the 240w amp that I was referring to. They do work well.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
What part of the eWave crossover is the CD comp??? Cable Guy and I are going to work on his speakers again this weekend and after looking up what he has for horns and CDs, they are indeed wave guide with the associated drop in SPL. I want to boost that and didn't know if it is just one part of the crossover or not. Thanks in advance.
 
Finally got the Advent Maestro Ewaves done

It was more of a job than I thought it would be. It might have been less work if I had just started from scratch, but they sure are nice now that they are done.

There were several problems with my plan. First, the woofer placement was too far from where the QSC waveguide needed to be (near the top), so I had to make a new covering baffle for the box. To make matters worse, Advent (Jensen at the time) had covered the baffle with a layer of foam, for diffraction reduction I guess. But the foam had all turned to goo. I tried alcohol, scraping, acetone, more scraping, violent cursing, but to little avail. The stuff was really nasty to get off, and I never succeeded in completely removing it. I finally wasted a couple of coarse sander belts to knock it down enough so I could put the new baffle over it.
P1010737.jpg


I thought I'd be creative for the baffle material and made an attempt at a "constrained layer damping" structure by bonding a piece of MDF to a piece of HDF with a caulk recommended by Earl Geddes. That was probably ok in itself, but I neglected to actually consider how much material would be involved after cutting the openings for the woofer and the waveguide, and after doing quarter rounds on the edges and around the woofer. Here's one of the baffles and the recessed mounting ring for the woofer:
P1010739.jpg

I suspect the constrained layer does just about nothing for this, not much of it is left after machining. But it was practice for when I do make a box from scratch (next project), anyway.

Next job was to take the sawzall to the old baffle to clear space for the woofer and waveguide and get rid of the old midrange cup. Followed by the sanding mentioned above.
P1010741.jpg


Then, I gave the new baffle a shot of black spray paint so it wouldn't show through the grille and put it all together. Not shown is several days of work on measurements and the crossover (in which I discovered a flaw in the way I was modeling the speaker and crossover -- I managed to work around that, but I really need to get PCD working on my computer!). Anyway, it all ended very well, the cabinets have nice proportions, feel very substantial, and sound really good. The Advent woofer is a very good performer.
P1010754.jpg


Now, one of the goals for these speakers was to have them use the original Advent grilles to make my wife happier. She tolerates my raw looking speaker creations, but she'd prefer to not have to. So I went to some effort to make the new baffles fit within the old grille and its mounting posts, with the waveguide and woofer recessed. And that came out fine.

But we recently got two new kittens in the house... you know where this is going. Literally, within 30 seconds (!) of the first time I put the grilles on the finished speakers, one of the cats reached up to enjoy some cloth ripping. I stopped him before much damage happened, but we are back to having ungrilled speakers on display (fortunately neither cat has tried to rip up the woofers...yet).

Here's a quick shot of one of the speakers with it's grille. See, it's just an Advent. Or is it Ewave Incognito?
(note the enemy at bottom right, plotting his next move).
P1010757.jpg


Much appreciation to Zilch, Bauhausler, Jackgiff, Wayne Parham, all the other EWavers - and of course to Earl Geddes - for all the work put into this speaker topology.
 
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Rebuilding upgrading Pioneer CS-922a project

I was out on the web hunting for info on these cs-922A speakers. I have a pair of them that I bought new way back then. Well, over the years of lugging them around the world, the moves and uses have taken their toll. There are mixed reviews about these speakers. I particularly thought they were good speakers at the time.

Well, all I have now is the wooden boxes. No speakers in them. The young boys poked their fingers through all the speakers. I just couldn't throw them out but now am getting some ideas in populating these with new upgraded speakers with re-built x-overs. I still have the led lightbar assembly along with the horn tweeters and cross overs, all still working.

They were kinda boomy as I remember. I ran them with a Marantz 2250B which I still have and use. 50Watt amp. Small rooms.

I have been looking and doing my homework as speaker specs and such. I am kinda confused about hifi speakers and pro audio speakers. Should I go with hifi or pro audio speakers. So far my learning curve has been looking at SPL and power handling, VAS, That sort of thing. I was refered to Econo-wave section here to maybe get some guidance and thoughts on what I am proposing.

My amplifier will be 50 watts @ 8 ohms. Actually, I am eventually going to have these hooked up to a Sansui 9001. At least thats my long term goal.

I was looking at ribbon tweeters but have to do some more research on those. Maybe building an external, (on top), tweeter on top. I don't know. Reading through the postings here gives me all kinds of ideas already. Here is a pic of one of the cabinets. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233106&d=1285769770

what do you think?
 
Bozak-Wave Review

I recently finished a pair of Econowaves with the D220, Pile waveguide and old Bozak B199A Woofers. They are in homemade sealed 5 cu.ft. boxes which are pretty darn big! The tweeter level was set by sweeping a sine wave across the crossover point and listening by ear for flat response. This worked out surprisingly well and also allowed me to verify driver phasing as the Bozak's are not marked with a + and -. Amplifier is a Hafler P-230.

After listening and tweaking for a couple days I compared them to the pair of Snell E III's that have been my main speakers for years. Amazingly the Bozakwaves have a smoother midrange/lower treble then the Snells which always sounded a just a bit "forward" in that region. The crossover was pretty darn seamless. The Bozakwaves were very dynamic and played louder without strain then the Snells.

I could hear a couple bumps in the tweeter response occurring in the 5-10khz region that give a bit of bite to the sound. Not unpleasant but noticeable. These were verified with a swept sine wave but are pretty minor. I wonder if others notice this or if it is particular to my drivers.

The Bozak bass is very different than the Snell's. The Snell go deeper. Bozak's bass is really dry, tight, fast and not very deep or powerful. The Bozak woofers sounded spooky-real with bass guitar an many recordings however Dark Side of the Moon was lacking in balls.

All in all a fun project and novel way to use some vintage woofers that have been sitting around here for the last 20 years. I doubt Rudy Bozak could have imagined such a system. Photo's to come when I find my digital camera that's around here somewhere...
 
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Thanx Zilch. I am learning. Getting some books on the subject of speaker building. I did take inside dimentions of the enclosures. Ha! now what to do with the info. That's why I'm getting on the learning curve.

Thank you for all the links. A study of each component is in order.

Thanks again.:thmbsp:
 
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