My Fisher Futura

chillywilly

Active Member
I'd been wanting a console for a while. Now I have one. A Fisher Futura. Maybe a 1966? I'm not that tech savvy but I'll do what I can to get the most out of her.
First thing was the lid wouldn't stay open. The wife suggested there might be adjustment screws on the hinges. Two half turns later the lid stays open. Success already!
Couple of questions:

What to use cleaning the faceplate?

What to use on the wood? I have Scott's liquid gold.

The tuner works. Not sure on the speakers. Good sound out of the mids or tweets, not sure which. Woofs are kinda rough sounding. Having trouble getting the back panels off the speakers to have a look.

Also not sure on the speaker hookup. Connectors labeling shows R C C L. How do I hookup my remote speakers(+,-) at these connections?

Any help would be great.
 

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Watch out! Next thing you know, you'll be leaving music on in the home and enjoying it a lot. These can be addictive.
 
Great looking cabinet! 1966 is the correct model year for the F-591 which had an MSRP of almost $1,000. Its chassis, the 69-T, was the same as that used in the Ambassador and Executive models. Almost completely solid-state, there are 3 Nuvistor miniature tubes in the FM front end. The letters on your speaker connection represent right, common (or ground) and left.

66Futura-Ambassador-Executive.jpg


An incomplete listing of Fisher's 1966 models:

66Reference_Chart.jpg
 
Wow,$1000 MSRP!
Took the faceplate off. The 2 dial lamps are burned out. Where can I get new ones?
Got the back off left side speaker. All 3 drivers are working, kinda scratchy.
Is it safe to spray Deoxit into the pots from the top? Would I need to cover anything underneath?
 

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AK Member DGWOJO should have them.

If you pull the receiver up and out, you can access the openings in the pots where the leads enter. This is where the De-Oxit needs to go. Just spraying the tops won't get it where it needs to go.

The speakers look the same as the ones in my 65 Futura. The Faceplate is similar but the controls and switches are reversed (top to bottom) from the 590. I DO LIKE the angled top for the control center. Mine is flat. Guess the 59A/59T combo was a one years shot. Your's is a "Receiver" where mine is a PRE-AMP/Tuner (59-T) and and AMP (59-A).

Like Red said: R=Right, C=common or neg, and L=Left for your speaker connections. Use U lugs or solder the ends of the speaker wire and "loop" them tightly around the screw and tighten. The loop goes clockwise (if you think of a backwards "?" that's what you need).

Clean all the contacts. The push switches are the most problematic of the controls I have on my Futura. Also the OFF/ON switch. If you can get a power strip, use it.

You might want to consider a recap if your gonna use it a fair amount. Power supply, and signal path caps. Tuner caps shouldn't really need too much work as they are mainly ceramics IIRC. Those two caps on the speaker X-over will give you the most bang for buck sonically based on my Futura. Use the same or as close as you can get value caps. The mids and highs will balance out a lot better after the caps are replaced.

I had SP-2000 and SP-200 Sansui's (rotated) working the EXTERNAL hookups on mine. They sound a lot better than the original speakers with the original caps. But the improvement with new caps has caused me to re-evaluate. No externals right now. But I did find some FISHER WS-1's for designed for Center fill. I use them about 6 foot out from either side of the console and a lot of empty holes (sonic wise) across the wall disappeared. And that DUAL 1019 is no slouch either. Get a new stylus, clean it mechanically, and you'll be set.

Does it have limitations? Sure, but considering what was available in 1966 for the average household it's a good unit. Much better than average. One hell of a lot better than most of the rest of the stuff that was selling as "Hi-Fi" or Stereo then. It was designed to be fairly simple to operate, had most of all the popular gear in the cabinet, and was expandable. Plus it's a good looking piece of Furniture. Granted it's NOT as powerful(sonic or visually) as a separates set-up, but owning a Console was a sign that you were pretty much "comfortable". And Consoles had a High WAF(Wife Exceptance Factor) back then. They had to look good and pretty much match for furniture.

Get some "Howards" Restore a Finish. Rub it in per instructions. Then go over it with Howards Feed and Wax. You WILL apply multiple coats as the 1st 2 or 3 will soak in. Let it as the finish is more than likely dry. 5-6 coats rubbed in will probably be enough. Wait a month then give it a good waxing with Butchers Bowking Alley Wax (Semi Gloss) or Johnson's Paste Wax(High gloss). Buff to Sheen desired.

Don't Use Pledge or spray furniture "wax". You CAN use Endust on a cloth, then Re-Buff it once a month or when ever it looks dirty. Toothbrush in the corners works good.


Very Nice example. With a recap and a good FEED and Waxing, it'll look as good as it'll work.

Here's a couple of my '65 FUTURA VI (F590-W)
100_1664.jpg


100_1658.jpg


100_1662.jpg


Larry
 
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Welcome to The Fisher Console club! We're a happy bunch, & I have no doubt you'll enjoy yours.

Larry - I thought I was the only guy around with a pair of WS-1's! And here you are with a pair only about 8 miles from me... I don't have mine hooked up - they're just conversation pieces ( old man voice "Yep, them're some satelite speakers from back in 19 hunnert and 62! Got a center channel, too. Surround sound ain't new ya little punk!")

I was pleasantly surprised by how good the speakers in my console (Executive IX) sound, but I rarely use them, favoring a pair of Cornwalls instead.
 
Rob: ROFLMAO at your description of the WS-1's. Picked them up for $5 @ Flea Market. Cab's are a bit beat up on the front edges, but overall in good shape. More like mid/hi satellites than mains.

I saw a pair of Advent Legacy's last week I'm thinking about. But haven't heard from the guy on how much.

Larry
 
AK Member DGWOJO should have them.

If you pull the receiver up and out, you can access the openings in the pots where the leads enter. This is where the De-Oxit needs to go. Just spraying the tops won't get it where it needs to go.

The speakers look the same as the ones in my 65 Futura. The Faceplate is similar but the controls and switches are reversed (top to bottom) from the 590. I DO LIKE the angled top for the control center. Mine is flat. Guess the 59A/59T combo was a one years shot. Your's is a "Receiver" where mine is a PRE-AMP/Tuner (59-T) and and AMP (59-A).

Like Red said: R=Right, C=common or neg, and L=Left for your speaker connections. Use U lugs or solder the ends of the speaker wire and "loop" them tightly around the screw and tighten. The loop goes clockwise (if you think of a backwards "?" that's what you need).

Clean all the contacts. The push switches are the most problematic of the controls I have on my Futura. Also the OFF/ON switch. If you can get a power strip, use it.

You might want to consider a recap if your gonna use it a fair amount. Power supply, and signal path caps. Tuner caps shouldn't really need too much work as they are mainly ceramics IIRC. Those two caps on the speaker X-over will give you the most bang for buck sonically based on my Futura. Use the same or as close as you can get value caps. The mids and highs will balance out a lot better after the caps are replaced.

I had SP-2000 and SP-200 Sansui's (rotated) working the EXTERNAL hookups on mine. They sound a lot better than the original speakers with the original caps. But the improvement with new caps has caused me to re-evaluate. No externals right now. But I did find some FISHER WS-1's for designed for Center fill. I use them about 6 foot out from either side of the console and a lot of empty holes (sonic wise) across the wall disappeared. And that DUAL 1019 is no slouch either. Get a new stylus, clean it mechanically, and you'll be set.

Does it have limitations? Sure, but considering what was available in 1966 for the average household it's a good unit. Much better than average. One hell of a lot better than most of the rest of the stuff that was selling as "Hi-Fi" or Stereo then. It was designed to be fairly simple to operate, had most of all the popular gear in the cabinet, and was expandable. Plus it's a good looking piece of Furniture. Granted it's NOT as powerful(sonic or visually) as a separates set-up, but owning a Console was a sign that you were pretty much "comfortable". And Consoles had a High WAF(Wife Exceptance Factor) back then. They had to look good and pretty much match for furniture.

Get some "Howards" Restore a Finish. Rub it in per instructions. Then go over it with Howards Feed and Wax. You WILL apply multiple coats as the 1st 2 or 3 will soak in. Let it as the finish is more than likely dry. 5-6 coats rubbed in will probably be enough. Wait a month then give it a good waxing with Butchers Bowking Alley Wax (Semi Gloss) or Johnson's Paste Wax(High gloss). Buff to Sheen desired.

Don't Use Pledge or spray furniture "wax". You CAN use Endust on a cloth, then Re-Buff it once a month or when ever it looks dirty. Toothbrush in the corners works good.


Very Nice example. With a recap and a good FEED and Waxing, it'll look as good as it'll work.

Here's a couple of my '65 FUTURA VI (F590-W)
100_1664.jpg


100_1658.jpg


100_1662.jpg


Larry

Larry,
Thanks for all the tips.
As far as pulling the receiver up and out. Can you give me a little on how to do that. What screws to take out, what to disconnect etc.
I've never re-capped anything. Kinda nervous about wrecking something.
TT is a 1009. Any idea how that comes out of the cabinet?
 
Turntable. Look for what appear to be screws on the edge of the base, @ 4oclock, and 11 oclock. Turn anticlockwise a couple turns. They'll loosen up at that point (the threads are gone from a section of the screw to allow them to pivot on the newer ones.). then pivot the bottom toward the center. The turntable will now lift off. Remove the leads as you lift it up and out.

RECEIVER: If there are no screws on the front plate perimeter into the wood, then go inside and look at the sheet. About 1/3 down from the top of the receiver are two attaching brackets, or bolts (depending on model). Unscrew. Also across the bottom is a retainer bar. check to see if the chassis is slid into the bar. If so it should slide out the top after removing the upper brackets.

Before disconnecting the brackets.
Remove the antenna leads (screwdriver)
Disconnect the Turntable plug (bottom of chassis....see sheet on back)
Disconnect the Pilot light leads(bottom of chassis....see sheet on back).

If you don't have the Service Manual, get one. Check with Rick @ STEREOMANUALS.NET. Tell him you need the Service Manual for a FISHER F-591. If he hasn't got it, you'll have to go to the FISHERDOC. Expect a good wait for it.

While you are waiting, you can clean the chassis with 1 part ammonia/4 parts water and a lot of Qtips. Just do the chassis metal. Don't do anything else.

Get a practice pc board to practice soldering on. Take the components off and then install them again. When you can do them without lifting traces, or burning the joints, you should be ready.

When you get the manual, check the list of Electrolytics against what's in the unit. You are gonna concentrate on the AUDIO Section of the receiver. That's from the INPUTS to the OUTPUTS. Doesn't include the Tuner. Also the Speaker X-over caps(1 or 2 per side there).

If you get stuck or have questions start a new post when you start the recap. Keep the repairs in one thread. One of us will help you out. Might be a good idea to scan the manual and upload it to the AK Database. that way whoever is helping you out will have access to the same manual. LOTS OF PICTURES HELPS ALSO. Be prepared to take pictures of EACH BEFORE AND AFTER component. It helps with problems after it's done, if any.

Now that you're totally confused and absolutely scared s&#*less, Jump outta the plane nOOb!!! HEY, YOU FORGOT.................damn he forgot his chute.



Seriously it's not as bad as it looks. Do some light research on capacitors, resistors, transistors, nuvistors, and Audio High Voltage.

NO JEWELRY OF ANY KIND!! Watches, Rings, etc. When energized and open, keep one hand in back pocket. Take a piece of small heatshrink and cover the RED PROBE on your voltmeter, except for the extreme tip.

Make a Dim Bulb Tester. Easy to make, and has saved more units than you can count in a month of sundays.

When you get it out, take a good picture of the bottom of the chassis (open) so we can get a good idea what we're dealing with.

Larry
 
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I decided to get some outside help.

Found a guy locally who would help me with my Fisher

As I said earlier, it was putting out poor bass sounds. I hooked up my SX650 to the speakers and they sounded fine.

He tested the chassis and replaced a bunch of caps? See pics. Got the turntable working correctly. Adapted a couple of fuse lamps for the display.
Found the single play spindle was underneath the Dual.

I am quite pleased with the result.

Sounds as good as it looks.
 

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Found a guy locally who would help me with my Fisher

As I said earlier, it was putting out poor bass sounds. I hooked up my SX650 to the speakers and they sounded fine.

He tested the chassis and replaced a bunch of caps? See pics. Got the turntable working correctly. Adapted a couple of fuse lamps for the display.
Found the single play spindle was underneath the Dual.

I am quite pleased with the result.

Sounds as good as it looks.

Then it's a gem all around because it looks absolutely gorgeous! Good job there!
 
Still do! Can testify! Mrs. Q has quite a thing going with the Ambassador now.
Getting Jealous, are we?? She paying more attention to the console than to you?
LOL!!
I gave mine the Custom Electra on the proviso that she stays away from the rest of my audio gear. Even the "new" console I just put together. 1961 Coronet Cabinet with a 400 fitted to the cabinet. OH MY GOD! It sounds so DAMNED GOOD! Now I HAVE to send the 400 out to get the TUNER Aligned.

Larry
 
Really, it went like this. I was discussing taking the speaker doors off, before someone trips over one of them, and I was instructed to pack them away very carefully, so they could be put back on when we move to a bigger place. I was delighted that she was taking ownership!

As for other gear, can't GET her to touch it much. I have to come work the controls mostly. She listens through TV speakers rather than deal with HT receiver. (But in all fairness the HT user interface sucks in every possible way....)
 
My Fisher Futura.... today's estate sale item

Hey everyone,

I just picked up a fisher futura F591 today for a whopping $5. Yes, $5!!! Oh, it works and so does the that dual 1009 turntable. Here's the question, I have gutted this console, as nice as it was, but realistically, I had no room for an oversized wood cabinet, anyways, are there a chasis out there so I can save the dual 1009? I will post some pictures here in a few minutes.

thanks again
 
I'd say salvage the piece that supported it in the console (already furnished with the right cut-outs), and some other wood from the same source (already finished to match,) and make a base for it.

You could make a cabinet for the tuner + amp, similarly
 
And IIRC there may be a 1009/1019 template on Vinylengine. That way if you can't get the baseplate out of the console, you get a large enough (3" larger than the base of the platter) piece of 3.4" or 1" plywood and make a plinth for it.

If you can, save the following pieces off it.

Turntable baseplate, Control head front plate, and any documentation on the cabinet, even if it's just a picture.

Larry
 
you guys are right, i didn't even think of that.... :scratch2:

the baseplate is there and i can remove that and use it to make a cabinet for it.
 
Hello everyone, I just rescued a 1968 Fisher Futura. What a beautiful piece of furniture. It needs some receiver work, has a dual 1015 in it, needs work also. My immediate concern is locating the lid hinges, they no longer work. If anyone has any ideas PLEASE let me know. I'll post some pics later. Got this beauty for 25.00
 
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