AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)

I wish it weren't it metric:thumbsdn:

If you work from Zilch's baffle layout, the outside dimensions are 8" x 14" so you'd get 6.5" x 12.5" internal with 3/4" material. That would need about 8 1/16" of internal depth to get the .38 ft^3 volume. External would be 8" W x 14"H x 9 9/16" D using 3/4" material all around.

Guess I didn't recall so well with that 10". :D
 
I wish it weren't it metric:thumbsdn:

Actually it only looks like metric.

Grab your calculator and crunch a couple of numbers...

1 inch = 25.4 mm

The 254 x 203.2 x 355.6 box is exactly 10" x 8" x 14" :thmbsp:
 
another pair

I saw the plans in the PE flyer and jumped right in. Thanks to everyone that had a part in designing these, I'm inexperienced but they sound awesome.

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OK, finished the project. The speakers look grand and play very well.

The curved speaker cabinets are just gorgeous. When I received the speaker cartons and saw the dreaded phrase “Made in China” stamped on the carton, I expected the worst – sloppy veneer work, ill-fitting joints, splotchy cherry stain, etc. But I was wrong. The cabinet construction is impeccable, the stain is perfect, the veneer is smooth and glossy and the edges all meet with no obvious joints. The resulting cherry-finish cabinets are truly beautiful. I felt guilty when I had to hack into them.

The insides of the cabinets did cause me some extra work. Knocking out the interior baffle took some doing. I sliced through the baffle at several points, down to the inside cabinet face, and then used a wood chisel to break the glue bond between the baffle and the sides of the cabinet. But they came out cleanly. The top and bottom of the interior baffles sit in a dado in the cabinet, so they took a bit longer to break free.

Fitting the port tube took some effort as well. Mine just barely touched the curved cabinet sides, just enough to prevent seating the speaker baffle cleanly on the inside ledge. To fix it, I sliced through the port tube, about 3 inches up from the baffle, at about a 5-10 degree angle. Then I twisted the cut piece 180 degrees and glued it back on with PVC cement. This gave a perfectly matched joint and no loss in tube length. Because it wasn’t a friction fit, I had to hold the two pieces together for about a minute or so until they started to fuse together. Once fused and left to cure for about an hour the tube was as solid as if I had never cut it. I also had to file down the cabinet’s interior ledge a bit on one side to allow the port tube to slide cleanly into the cabinet.

As I didn’t have the equipment to route out a recess in the baffle to hold the woofer, I surface mounted the woofers. Unfortunately, doing that prevents the speaker grill from fitting over the raised woofer lip and fitting flush onto the baffle. I left the grills off and fortunately the woofer’s exposed aluminum diaphragm gives the speakers a high-tech look. It has an unexpected and attractive appearance.

I find I now have to increase the volume slightly on my Harman-Kardon A/V Receiver (AVR-435) to get them to play at a volume equivalent to the speakers they replaced. However, they do reproduce the highs I was missing before, particularly on my test-bed CD – “Creedence Clearwater Revival Chronicle,” which now sounds better than its ever sounded.

All in all, I have to say I’m pleased with the result. I placed them on tubular speaker stands that happened also to be on sale in the PE flyer. And, best of all, my wife loves the result.

Al
 
Post the pics of your finished projects and we'll see if we can't get you on the Indignia official build list!:thmbsp:
 
Well, here's the finished speaker. I'm not sure if I've uploaded the image correctly or if it's even sticky -- if this works, I'll try to get a pic tomorrow of the speaker's interior and post it here. Sitting atop the speaker stand, the tweeter is exactly at seated ear height.

Al

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:banana: As promised, here's a pic of my speaker's interior. I put speaker gasket tape on the ledge that sits under the baffle and a double thickness of the gasket tape under the woofer -- screwed down, the baffles and the woofers are airtight. The tweeters already had enough foam to make them airtight. There's also some Wal-Mart quilt batting on the sides as well (it's about 1/8" thick). I used 1/4" plywood for the "circuit board" and wired the components point-to-point on the underside. It may be amateurish and not very pretty but the result is very satisfying.

Because the stock grills no longer fit, I'm attempting to make new grills using 3/4" wood corner moulding and some 1/2" x 1" x 2" popular for corner blocks to hold the magnets. We'll see how that turns out.



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Al
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Lead, follow or get out of the way...
 

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Congratulations to everyone who worked on this project! :thmbsp:

I am going to be building a pair of these but because the .38 and the .50 cabinets are virtually the same price, I wanted to get the .50 shown here. The only reason why I haven't started building them yet is because I am concerned about the port size. Assuming I'm going with the same woofers as with the .38 I calculate a port of 13.36 (need to use a 2" port).

Could someone please double check my figures? :saywhat: With a 2 inch port and a tuning frequency of 35hz, I get 13.36 for the port length (assuming it will need to be flared). Can someone please double check this before I order parts? :saywhat:







.
 
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Could someone with an assembled pair of these speakers please weigh them?

I'll be mounting them from the ceiling and need to make sure the mounts I have will work with them. THANKS! :)
 
Congratulations to everyone who worked on this project! :thmbsp:

I am going to be building a pair of these but because the .38 and the .50 cabinets are virtually the same price, I wanted to get the .50 shown here. The only reason why I haven't started building them yet is because I am concerned about the port size. Assuming I'm going with the same woofers as with the .38 I calculate a port of 13.36 (need to use a 2" port).

Could someone please double check my figures? :saywhat: With a 2 inch port and a tuning frequency of 35hz, I get 13.36 for the port length (assuming it will need to be flared). Can someone please double check this before I order parts? :saywhat:







.

According to WinISD (my bible in these matters) That speaker in a 1/2 cu inch cabinet tuned to 35 Hz needs a 2 inch port 12.06" long.

the Mach number, again from WinISD will be .08. If that is too long or unusable for some reason, The program says you can use 2 ports, 1 inch diameter, each one 6.04" long. Get the same Mach number.
 
THANKS Shelly! The smallest port that I can use is a 2". I think the depth of the inside on the .5 is 12" but I won't know for sure until they arrive. Maybe I should move the freq. to 39Hz.
 
According to WinISD (my bible in these matters) That speaker in a 1/2 cu inch cabinet tuned to 35 Hz needs a 2 inch port 12.06" long.

the Mach number, again from WinISD will be .08. If that is too long or unusable for some reason, The program says you can use 2 ports, 1 inch diameter, each one 6.04" long. Get the same Mach number.

That is surprising considering that 2 1" ports take up less space, I would have assumed more noise issues. Would you mind double checking?
 
From the port/vent combination with less port area. A single 2" port has more port area than two 1" ports and should have less noise as a result. I haven't sim'ed in winISD yet but BB6P and unibox lead me to believe something is bring entered or calculated incorrectly in shelly d's sim.
 
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