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More Karma Indignias.

Blast

I Wanna Rock
Subscriber
I've been very impressed with everyone's contribution in the original Indignia thread:http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=160535 and all the systems that have been built.

And, from that, a few years ago AK member BmWr75 built a pair using some Realistic MC1000's he got for free: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189986

And, that's what got me started! :banana: I also had some MC-1000's obtained from a "bulk buy" 6 years ago and, since I'm not crazy about the sound of them, thought I'd convert them as he did. Here they are in their original form:

someones mc1000.jpg

By sending a few photos and providing a little help BmWr75 was very helpful getting me started. So, since the time is right I've started! Removed the drivers and crossovers:

20110925 MC1000s before conversion to Karma Indignias 001 edit.jpg

Removed the old baffles:

20111015 Converting MC1000s to AudioKarma Indignias 001 edit.jpg

Installed new furring strips and, utilizing the old jack packs, built crossovers as per Indignia v3.5:

20111015 Converting MC1000s to AudioKarma Indignias 002 edit.jpg

Had Lowe's cut a pair of baffles (yeah, you can see I screwed up the cabinet getting the old baffle out :wave: : I guess that's what wood putty is for:

20111015 Converting MC1000s to AudioKarma Indignias 003.jpg

All the parts from Parts Express are on deck.... And that's where I'm at. :yes:

Brian
 
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No, Tchuck, I don't have a specific photo of the wiring. Really, the "crossover" was nothing more than a 2.5uF bi-polar hanging on the tweeter. You can see all the drivers on the kitchen table in one of my photos in post #1.

Thanks, Ray, coming from you that means plenty :yes:

Since I didn't use a copper board I wonder if I should at least silicone glue the crossover components together for a little strength.

Anyone know who can drill the baffles for the drivers? :dunno: Being without a router I'd glad pay for the service! :yes: Here's the plans:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1940777#post1940777

The only difference is that the MC1000 baffles, at 15.75" x 9.75", are larger than the PE boxes that most people used, or modeled after.

Brian
 
A couple of baffle boards and port tubes! :banana:

20111202 Baffles made by AKer RayW 2 edit.jpg

He didn't even complain too much about my choice of 5/8" particle board. :dunno:

Thanks again, Ray!

Brian
 
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He didn't even complain too much about my choice of 5/8" particle board. :dunno:

You do what you can with what you've got. :D

Thanks again, Ray!

Brian

You're very welcome. Coincidentally, those baffles were milled while clamped to a B&D Workmate bench identical to yours other than a different set of saw and router marks and paint overspray. :thmbsp:
 
That B&D been a good ol' workhorse. Sometimes I think it's too small for some of my projects but, most of the time just perfect.

Progress made: Baffle fronts painted black. I drilled out, and installed 6/32 brass threaded inserts to hold the drivers- hopefully no stripping out of particle board every time screws go in, and out. Crossovers are mounted. Waiting on some Acousti-Stuff and little more rope seal so I can mount the baffles. Hopefully, finishing up next week end!

Brian
 
A coworker that does some woodwork on the side cut out the baffle holes for me.

Let me ask you this: My cloth is glued to the wood grill's over the entire surface. How did you (or your coworker) cut the wood in the grilles to enlarge/add pass-through holes without damaging the grille cloth? Did you cut "round" enlargements to match/follow the drivers/ports in the baffles? Or, just cut straight cuts (which I could probably do with a box knife)?
 
Acousti-stuff installed:

PC090005 edit.jpg

Cutting the port to 5.5" O.A. length now...

PC090006 edit.jpg

Brian
 
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Let me ask you this: My cloth is glued to the wood grill's over the entire surface. How did you (or your coworker) cut the wood in the grilles to enlarge/add pass-through holes without damaging the grille cloth? Did you cut "round" enlargements to match/follow the drivers/ports in the baffles? Or, just cut straight cuts (which I could probably do with a box knife)?

Blast,

Just saw this question. I removed the grill cloth carefully. Then hogged out the tweeter hole in the frame with a jig saw. The result wasn't pretty, but it is not visible either. Be careful to not break the frame while doing this. Then I restapled the grill clothe to the frame. If I was doing it again, would glue the cloth with 3M spray adhesive.

Scott
 
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