Enclosure labels

wanders

AK Subscriber
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I've seen diy project boxes (aluminum) with very professional-looking labels. (Like " L/R, In/Out, On/Off, etc.).

Does anybody know how this is done?

Links, advice appreciated. Thanks.
 
Back in "the good ole days" we would use dry letter transfers. You'd buy a package containing many sheets of Mylar with rub off characters. I remember DeccaDry as one of the suppliers. All the same color, font & size. Just line them up in the desired position and use a soft lead pencil to effect the transfer.

The letters had to be covered with something like thinned clear fingernail polish.
 
usually dry letter transfer but Enaldo posted up his method printing out and transfer method. Maybe somebody has the link or he'll chime in.

We have a new trophy shop near by I visited where they said they could do engraving, etching etc. but their equipment was limited to what you'd see on a trophy and limited in size. They couldn't do a panel per say.
 
Hunt up a Signwriter or Vinyl decal maker Armed with a Screen shot/image of what you are wanting replicated .. Should be easyish and affordable.
 
Back in "the good ole days" we would use dry letter transfers. You'd buy a package containing many sheets of Mylar with rub off characters. I remember DeccaDry as one of the suppliers. All the same color, font & size. Just line them up in the desired position and use a soft lead pencil to effect the transfer.

Letraset is another (still) available from your local art supply shop.
 
Plastic model makers use a decal transfer sheet in ink-jet or laser printers. You create the artwork with your favorite software and print to the decal sheet. Cut the decal out and drop in water. When the decal releases from the backing sheet, slide it onto the panel.

Give the whole panel an overcoat with a clear spray, and "Bob's your Uncle".

Do a Google search for "ink-jet decals" or something similar.
 
drspiff; Yeah that's what I was referring to but the shop didn't know what I was talking about. I think enaldo used some acetone or some strong solvent but it did the job and he was restoring I think an adcom or similar face plate.

Letraset is good but be aware of old stock.

Model maker decals sounds pretty good, too but registration where you place them takes a good eye or someway to align the letters. a ruler is easy enough.
I used to build a lot of plastic models and applied a ton decals! :D

I still think a more permanent not easy to wash off or have to apply sealers is the way to go. Wonder if 3-d printing could make raised letters to stick on?
 
Wonder if 3-d printing could make raised letters to stick on?

Sure, but then you are back to the problem of individual letters. And alignment with individual letters is more difficult than with blocks of letters as you would have with a decal.

One way to get the alignment of correct is to put alignment or fiduciary marks on the decal when it is printed. For instance if the hole is already drilled for a volume pot, put the hole on the decal. Or if registering to a corner of a panel, use 3 marks, corner and 2 sides to line things up. Then remove the decal you don't need.

A mention was made earlier about taking your artwork to a vinyl sign cutter. If they have or can get thin vinyl this might be the way to go. The vinyl cutter is a CNC machine so any artwork is possible, in theory. And it is very clean and rugged compared to most other methods.
 
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