Yamaha CR-820 left channel out

Well, I''ll leave it at that. Thank you everyone for all the help getting my receiver up and running. It's incredible how much I've learned. I'm a de-soldering fool, now!

Steve

Do you use the Hakko 808 de-soldering tool? It does make it easy... to the point of "oh crap - I've de-soldered too many things." Have to be careful that you remember what goes back where!

:tresbon:Congratulations - and glad to hear you're enjoying the Yamaha-Polk combo. It is an oft complimented relationship, but I have yet to acquire a pair. I have had a line on one or two, but timing or price or location or combination of those has always been an issue so far. Soon though...
 
I've only been using the braid. I don't hesitate like I did when I need to have a look at something. When I first started pulling things at the beginning I had to use fine stranded wire. The braid sure is nice comparatively, and I've read that some additional cleanup is often required with braid even with the tool. I'm sure it is worthwhile for the worthy.

Re-capping– Since you have a couple Cr-820's, would you happen to have come across a list of capacitors? Just asking, because you've been so helpful with other info of this kind. That would give me a boost. Otherwise I'll just find them and ID them with the help of the schematic. Brand, supplier? I'm confident I can find general recap procedures on AK somewhere.

I intend to recap these Monitor 7's real soon. I just need to decide among the choices. The "basic" upgrade seems to be replacing all four with Dayton 5% Poly and just checking the resistors. Some say upgrade the resistors, too. :scratch2: I'll see if I can figure it out from what I see over in Speakers. So far it's tough to decide.

Good luck with getting your two up and running someday,

Steve
 
I've only been using the braid. I don't hesitate like I did when I need to have a look at something. When I first started pulling things at the beginning I had to use fine stranded wire. The braid sure is nice comparatively, and I've read that some additional cleanup is often required with braid even with the tool. I'm sure it is worthwhile for the worthy.

Re-capping– Since you have a couple Cr-820's, would you happen to have come across a list of capacitors? Just asking, because you've been so helpful with other info of this kind. That would give me a boost. Otherwise I'll just find them and ID them with the help of the schematic. Brand, supplier? I'm confident I can find general recap procedures on AK somewhere.

Good luck with getting your two up and running someday,

Steve

List of caps you ask?? I just finished a complete inventory of all the electrolytics a week or so ago! I'll try to get it typed up today and send it to you... perhaps I'll try and post it to the site too. I could even share a link to a mouser project list when I get that done if you like...

I have not gotten into any of the other types of caps - the schematic will have to be the reference for figuring that list out. I'm not sure if they need to be done or not, but I see some people do replace certain ones... (film? mylar? not sure)

As for the procedure - just make sure not to remove too many at a time. I found on the CA-410 that it worked well to de-solder 3 - 5 capacitors, but make sure they stayed on the board. Then one at a time while paying close attn to polarity, replace them with new. Then solder, check connections... do a dim-bulb test... and repeat. It worked very well. The last thing you want is 3 or 4 capacitors off the board, and you can't recall what goes where.

Both my 820s are currently fully functional, but one of them is definitely in need of re-capping. It sounds weak and flat - tone is very thin. I think it's been sitting for quite awhile not working. The other one sounds pretty good, so I'll likely recap the poor one and then compare the sound. Should be interesting...:scratch2:

Hakko de-solderer - I don't know about "worthwhile for the worthy," I think it's more like good investment for the impatient! And there is no residual cleanup needed - the board is completely clean after using it. It's pretty amazing. I've never used wick - and with this tool I don't particularly feel the need to! It really is great it's as simple as heat the part, solder melts, press trigger, solder gone - part falls out. No risk of overheating the board or the part.
 
Capacitor list

Here's the inventory of electrolytic capacitors I took from my CR-820. These were counted right from the receiver, not the manual. I only put in heights and lead spacing where I thought it seemed more critical - the largest of the capacitors.

I did not get into any of the other types - perhaps someone could chime in with an opinion as to whether any other types should be changed?
 

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