drknstrmyknight
Addicted Member
What do you think replacing the chassis on MC-XXX amps with third party reproductions does to the value?
Replacing MC-225 chassis - worth it?
- Thread starter drknstrmyknight
- Start date
analog addict
Glory or Death!
Is the 225 chassis available?
drknstrmyknight
Addicted Member
Not from McIntosh, but I have located a 3rd party who fabricates them from time to time. Assuming the quality is good and the printing is passable, I'm wondering how it would affect value.
Don't think it will make much difference in value if done well (says the guy with rechromed/re-silk screened chassis) unless you are comparing to a true mint set of originals.
Yes...... but stainless philipshead screws, nuts and washers are a better choice unless you are going to be anal about a refurb. In that case, rivets are the only way to go.
dshoaf
That high voltage buzz
SK Member Sloober (aka, John) redid a set of MC-30s I sold him with this vendor's chassis. I was the one that purchased them. They were excellent builds. I'm not sure that Sloober is active much here anymore.
You'll want to use the Search engine to find his excellent threads on the rebuild process he went through to retrofit the chassis. You'll encounter the same challenges, for the most part, on an MC-225.
Cheers,
David
You'll want to use the Search engine to find his excellent threads on the rebuild process he went through to retrofit the chassis. You'll encounter the same challenges, for the most part, on an MC-225.
Cheers,
David
bergui45
Member
Thank You David!
I was told by Clinicaudio( McIntosh specialist here in France) that this new chassis is not as thick as the McIntosh genuine one...
;-(
Since this is a very heavy amp i guess a sturdy extra strong chassis is mandatory!
Clinicaudio offers another way to go: dismantle the Mc225, have the genuine chassis rechromed and then new serigraphics performed on it!
At the moment i don't yet have any pricing for this rebuild...
I was told by Clinicaudio( McIntosh specialist here in France) that this new chassis is not as thick as the McIntosh genuine one...
;-(
Since this is a very heavy amp i guess a sturdy extra strong chassis is mandatory!
Clinicaudio offers another way to go: dismantle the Mc225, have the genuine chassis rechromed and then new serigraphics performed on it!
At the moment i don't yet have any pricing for this rebuild...
ajauwen
Active Member
I just measured an original chassis and a reproduction chassis. The original measures .05120" (1.30048mm) and the reproduction .05085" (1.2959mm). Measuring a few spots on each chassis those numbers varied by about +/- .0002". The MC225 also has an internal support rib that runs the length of the chassis and the bottom cover also provides support to the chassis top the length of the chassis on each side. Of the couple of dozen chassis sold, there hasn't been any mention of the thickness being an issue. bergui45, I am willing to send you a chassis at my expense for you to take a look at. If you like it you can pay me for it, if you don't like it I'll pay for you to return it... !! Let me know through a pm or email what your address is if you would like me to send it.
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You can't ask for a better offer than that. I've dealt with Joe several times. He's the real deal and he stands behind what he sells.
sxty8goats
Super Member
That is only a .004 difference, 3 if you consider that most people round up to three decimal places. Well within the sheet metal tolerance, especially when you consider the thickness of the chrome will vary a thou or two from batch to batch.
cc43fan
I'll sleep when I'm dead
ajauwen
Active Member
I rivet a chassis using a combination of hand riveting and a hand clincher. Depends on where on the chassis the rivet is going.
IMO its's a valid method to rescue an old amp with a severely rusted chassis, and the amp will always be just that. Nothing beats totally pristine cdx NOS/NIB with all-original internals and Mac marked OEM tubes for collector desirability, it's all downhill from there.
bergui45
Member
Hello,
I cannot resist with your incredible very "friendly" offer!
OK i will send you my address!
Kindest regards
bergui45
Member
Well for me the question is first how to remove the rivets?
using a small hand drilling machine to dig a hole in the head of the rivet?
Another question:
is it hard to remove the old chassis before replacing with the new one?
I drilled them out with a variable speed cordless drill, mind the grindings if the mounting piece isn't totally removed from the amp.
