SX 6000 teardown and repair

joshvito

Active Member
I picked this unit up for $30 off craigslist knowing it had a blown power fuse and wasn't operational. I mainly bought it as a parts unit to replace a switch on another SX 6000 I use in my fish room (this one has a broken low pass filter button).

Since the non working unit is complete, I thought I'd make an attempt at repairing it before I started removing parts to put in my working model.

Here are the tear down photos, I removed the wood surround and faceplate, to keep from damaging them.

4 Bottom screws hold the unit in the wooden box
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Nice find! The switches may be the same as those used on the SX-424 which may help you find one if this receiver is salvageable.
 
After you remove the wood surround, the bottom plate is easily removed by taking out the visible brass colored screws on bottom.

I like to keep the removed screws for each part in a separate Tupperware container. It saves tome when re assembly time comes and harder to loose the hardware.

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The faceplate is fairly simple to remove on this model. Pull all the knobs. Just pull straight back, as none require an allen wrench. Put these in a separate container.

The face plate has 3 screws on top and 3 on bottom. There is one nut behind the tuning knob too. Once you have those off, the faceplate should easily pull straight off.

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I put together a dim bulb tester and got some fuses. Once I get to the store and find an incandescent bulb, I'll throw a fuse in and see if it powers up!
 
:lurk:

This thread will be of interest to me.

I picked up one of these years ago in non-working condition. After jumping some connections, it performed excellent and is beautiful to look at. Further, recent examination shows that someone else has done work on it and it will require a patient, careful, thorough servicing.

I don't currently have a "need" for it but it is sitting in a slot in the main system. I'm itching to find the time to get into it because the sound and the looks have been gnawing at me lately.

Good luck and thank-you for the thread.
 
Replaced the rear fuse. And power it up on dim bulb tester.

Pioneer SX6000 power up on dim bulb tester: http://youtu.be/MEXHRS1R2ng

I added some audio source via AUX and listened through headphones. No left channel.

So a closer look reveals the left channel fuse on the amplifier is burnt.

After replacing the left channel fuse, a second test on the bulb tester shows a problem.
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Thanks for the advise on the bulb tester. Super cool, and saved the fuses! [emoji4]

What's the next step in pinpointing the problem? Any suggestions?
 
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I have removed the amplifier board from the receiver. I plan on replacing all the caps. And the 4 Toshiba 2SC1080 s.

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What's the best way to shop for these caps? Ive been told to check mouser.com and buy nichicon or chemicon caps.

What's the easiest way to create a parts list? Write down the numbers off each cap? Or is the schematic on hifi easier way to go?
 
Write down the values from the caps in there.
Service manuals are known to be wrong and things change during production.
The big ouyput caps have 3 legs, you can only get 2 leg leaded types so you'll have to make a jumper connecting the new caps.
Test the big resistors before ordering.
You should test every other transistor on the amp before ordering and maybe cross reference them and order them too, cheap and you are paying postage anyway.

I had one give me fits because the STV was getting bad.
You can build replacement STV from diodes. IIRC, UF4004, use 3 in series.
Echo war has a thread about STV diode replacement.
It doesn't happen much and they may test OK but having some UF4004 around is handy.

Post the cap list when you make it.
There are a few of these here being looked at.
I was going to get a parts list together, but life has other plans.
 
I started a list on google docs. with open comments, feel free to suggest additions or parts from mouser. :) :thmbsp:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IDQbT8TYGKwAnHdfmDuhidTl5EYvrZ-82cNcSosd1Ic/edit?usp=sharing
Also, if you are interested in collaborating on this list, send me a pm, and I'll give you editor access to the google sheet.

I just wrote the numbers from the part, and took an educated guess at the type.

I think I may list all the boards in the receiver, some of the other boards only have a few caps, might as well get them all at once.
 
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What's the little black thing in between the heatsink fins?
Also, is the white ceramic just a resistor (it's got a zig zag line below it, so I assume so)?

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I could use a bit of help.

I have created a parts list for the the main amplifier board. However, I can't seem to find a replacement for the large transistors on the heatsink, 2SC1080.
Can some one help with finding a replacement?

I created a google sheet to keep the parts list, feel free to look at it here.


I can't seem to figure out how to post a table of data. Nor will it let me attach a .csv file. :no:
 
Ok, I have run into a discrepancy. The schematic for the power supply board and the caps that are in the unit are very different.

SCHEMATIC
C1 100uF 50v
C2 100uF 50v
C3 100uF 35v
C4 220uF 25v
C5 220uF 15v
C6 220uF 25v

IN UNIT - Mouser replacement
C1 100uF 50v - 647-UKW1J101MPD
C2 100uF 50v - 647-UKW1J101MPD
C3 220uF 35v - 647-UFW1H221MPD
C4 220uF 25v - 647-UFW1H221MPD
C5 330uF 16v - 647-UFW1H331MPD
C6 330uF 25v - 647-UFW1H331MPD

I have another SX6000 I could open to take a look. I can't seem to find a thread with a parts list for this receiver. Maybe my search skills on AK are lacking.

I think this unit has been repaired in the past, as I am not the first owner, should I replace the caps with uF values that are in the unit, or use the values from the schematic?
 

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bumping up an old thread. I have just acquired an SX-6000. Initial inspection shows a blown fuse on the left channel. going through the power supply, Q11 appears to be bad. Been checking out the parts list posted by joshvito. Wondering if anyone has built a new parts list before I get started rebuilding.
 
bump, not sure if the list was ever made accurate? I just acquired one as well, Right channel is out. Time to start pulling transistors for testing
 
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